Geeto67

Usually the difference is mice and other field animals that love to chew wires, build nests, and crap on everything. again there is no guarantee and YMMV but the closer to the city you get the less likely you are cleaning little black pellets and dead carcasses out of the bumper covers and bandaging chewed wires. Chewed wires on an audi...I just got a shiver up my spine.

This is assuming that non-gasoline vehicles are unlimited, so I can own as many electric motorcycles and electric cars as I want, and you can always convert a gasoline old car to electric - with old muscle cars usually all you give up is noise and smell, mileage is the same and torque (which is what gives old muscle cars that heavy machinery feel) can be near the same or better. chances are that with the gasoline limitations the infrastructure will pop up to support electric vehicles so they will be just as practical as the gas cars they replace. But my ass is not getting in an electric powered Cessna 172. that shit needs to be gasoline powered.

An Airplane.

I've been messing with these cars for over 20 years, the one thing I find out about them is that for such a simple car there is always something new to learn. If i am stating anything you already know or is obvious, sometimes I do that because someone else may be reading this thread with an A-body and may find the info useful, so don't take it personally. If you are under 400hp and 450ft lbs, nothing wrong with a 10 bolt. Unlike chevys BOP 10 bolts have bolt in axle retainers which makes them slightly stronger than the chevy equivalent (BOPs are different from 8.2" 10 bolts in other ways as well). Here is some info on GM BOP rear axles: http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/2013/01/01/hmn_tips3.html http://www.oldsmobility.com/old/10bolt-tech.htm From my own experience I have run the stock 10 bolt in my GTO since 1997 with 3.55 gears and an auburn posi unit and it works great. Car made 365hp on a chassis dyno in 1998 and I have run the car on slicks at now defunct Westhampton drag strip without a single whimper. I also drove it like clay described (except mine weren't peg legs - posi baby!!!) away from every stop light. Biggest issue I have had with the car is the rear drum shoes sticking to the lining when the car sits. 3.55 is almost the Goldilocks ratio for these cars - not screaming on the highway but not a slouch at a stoplight either. if you are going to swap the 350 for another olds motor - 455s are way cheaper than 400s - easier to make power with too. But you will need the TH400 trans. I've had to do that too - they rot right at that front body mount where the fire wall is because that is where the water drains down from the cowl. If it is patched right you should be good for a while. for what you would pay for a stock boxed frame, there are plenty of places like Art Morrison, and the Rod shop that could sell you a good start to a pro-touring frame. One thing you should be careful about with A-body frames is starting in 1968 GM started stamping a vin into the frames. It is not a full vin, just a partial with GM Division code, model year, assembly plant, last 6 of serial number. But it is enough for a cop to find out if the car your frame came from is stolen. http://i989.photobucket.com/albums/af17/2014photoalbum/TechAndScans/frame_zps2cecceb5.jpg Even if you do no other mods to the car, I do recommend the front tube a-arms and front suspension rebuild as it just gets rid of the flaws in the stock suspension anyway that makes the car drive better overall. In the wheels department I am just a huge fan of old school cragar s/s wheels if you aren't going to do something stock. Something like that with a beefy 60 or 70 series tire just screams "I am a blunt instrument of speed from an era before safety!!!" This is the best idea.

Fixed it for you. a lot of what you are dealing with isn't necessarily audi's fault so much as the fact the car sat around for the last year or so and probably when it got into the higher miles the PO's stopped paying attention to little things and learned to just live with them. Like all German luxury cars, Audi's tend to attract buyers that expect reliability and when the car starts to give them small troubles they just ignore them until they have a massive catastrophic failure. This is because if you look at German cars made before say 1993 - they have the reliability of a stone where as cars made after 1993 lean toward the bleeding edge of tech with the reliability of an envelope, they set the bar so high for so long that there are people out there that think a B5 1.8T can run on the similar maintenance schedule of an e30 bmw (replace parts only when they smoke, catches fire or render the car inoperable) but really you can't. Once you shake 50 years of deferred maint out of the car it should be fine. Looking at the pics I feel like the car needs an aggressive set of AT2 grabbers or Michelin dirt tires and a rally car light bar as sort of a DIY allroad, but without all the stranded because of failed air suspension and turbo rubber booties.

We can do another weekend wrench session after the kids go to bed. We can even test the old T-stat using a pot of boiling water on the stove to make sure that it really is a stuck t-stat and not something more sinister.

it's all the same A-body platform so finishing the conversion is easy. As the car is I bet it makes a nice sunny day cruiser. having been an A-body guy for a long time here are some recommendations that would make the car drive more like a 442. You can consider these all aspirational but I wanted to put the thoughts in your head in case you do need to change stuff. - Engine. The Olds 350 is a stout engine but 442s came with 400ci mills that made about 360hp and 440 ft lbs of torque. By comparison the stock 350 in that engine bay makes about 250hp in it's top tune and about 325ftlbs of torque. you can upgrade the stock 350 with olds "rocket" parts to get 350hp out of them (remember these are all pre SAE gross numbers - modern 350 hp LS engine would deliver more hp than a stock 442 400ci). By the way, 1969 old engines should be painted gold. - Trans. I know you said the tranny was just done not that long ago but if you find yourself needing to upgrade a good solution for a replacement is a rebuilt 200R4 out of a Buick grand national as it will have a BOP bolt pattern and 4th gear. - Suspension. What most people don't know is that the 442 were the best handling of all the GM "A-body muscle cars". This is due to Old's use of a lot of police spec equipment in the undercarriage (most pre 1967 hardtops ran boxed convertible frames). 442s have front and rear sway bars that are different in shape and size from the ones the cutlasses use. However, if you want to go further there are two things I would consider: 1) is boxed or solid bar rear control arms (upper and lower) with a big sway bar (on my GTO I use stock style boxed with a welded sway bar but I hear the Metco solid alloy adjustable control arms are great as well). 2) front control arms. GM A-bodys have a notoriously bad camber curve. plus the stamped steel control arms are crack prone and the ball joints are a pain in the ass to change. Almost all of the modern tubular front control arms correct for this and give you excellent camber adjustment. They also get rid of bump steer. if you want to do an accurate 442 clone here is the info you need to get started: http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/of442.htm however, for what you would have into it chasing the rare parts like the 442 specific sway bar you could just buy a real 442. My recommendation is to beef up the suspension, put something kinda hot under the hood, and just go have a good time - but don't forget to replace those front fender emblems with 442 ones as well - other wise the car is a dead giveaway.

I will let clay describe it in detail but I went over to Clay's house to check it out. It appears that the thermostat is stuck in the closed position as the upper radiator hose was not pressurizing with any coolant, even well into the red zone. Also the gauge cluster in his car has the usual solder separation so it isn't always giving a solid reading. The coolant is def heating up and there may be some air bubbles stuck in the system, but the coolant is not circulating at anything more than a trickle (weep hole in the T-stat). I recommended to him that since T-stats are cheap and easy to do on the M42 that we start with that but don't be surprised if we have to do a water pump.

That's a very nice vert! It's great to see one that is not rotted to the door handles in Ohio. So it's a 442 clone, looks like the base car was a standard cutlass, but are you going to finish doing the conversion? I'm assuming the 350 is the original engine, how much do you care about originality with this car? Or could you stick an LS2 in there and not feel a twinge of remorse? Is it a jetway automatic or a TH350? Or a TH400?

clay, are you having a driveway drinking night this weekend? We can make it a mission to check out the car. It sounds to me like you got air in the system - same thing happened to me in my E30 vert but we can check it out. Also if you need help picking it up I can tag along.

I go back and forth about what I want to run. Bikes need to much right now to think about it this year, probably going to try to do car this year and bike next year. I was there at the most recent meet, which bike were you?

I was still thinking about this thread this morning and then I remembered something....This thread: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,103801.0.html when I lived in New York I used to flip old bikes, mostly SOHC cb750s because I have owned about 20 of them and have a huge parts stash (most of which is still in NYC in storage). There was this one bike though, I bought it from this weird skater dude in brooklyn named Seth Rosko. He had it stored down at an indoor skate park in brooklyn called the autumn bowl and he let me work on it there. It was one of the cleanest cb750Fs I had seen in a while at a time when these bikes were still near worthless. Anyway from those conversation/wrenching sessions we decided to build an old bike community in brooklyn - he started the NYC Vinmoto List serve and I brought the Vintage Japanese Motorcycle club to NYC as a representative. From that over the course of the next 8 years we grew the community from nothing into a series of meetups, rides, shows, and a network of really interesting people who love old bikes. In 2011 I sold the cb750F that was the origin of all this to a friend of a friend as a first bike. The kid then proceeded to put 5000 miles on it without ever checking or changing the oil (which was already overdue for a change) and seized the bottom end. Another friend bought it and turned around and sold it to this guy on SOHC4.net where he built an amazing custom motorcycle out of the old girl. Of all the motorcycles I have owned and sold, this is only one of two where I know where it is - the other being a cb550 chopper that ironically the same friend who bought the cb750F currently owns.

would you consider giving that to me as a form of mercy and charity if I promise to get it running and turn it into a street legal vintage rally car? Seems a shame to just let it sit in the barn.... Will Work for Volvo

my 1995 jeep? at the body shop at the moment, but 20 years and still counting. my 1987 Cherokee 2 door Laredo? probably a beer can by now. Traded to the dealer for the 1995 wrangler and sent to auction (who wants a 2 door blue xj cherokee with 141000 miles and an AM radio to sit on a lot?). my 1967 Chevelle SS? last time I saw it, it was a coffee table in Flushing, Queens. Damn hit and run drunk drivers. 1995 Blazer? who knows - traded to dealer on a 1999 2 door Tahoe sport in 1999. Probably a beer can by now. 1967 GTO: Still in my brother's garage in NY, sleeping. He let me facetime with it last week. 1967 Buick GS340? sitting in a storage lot in syosett, NY and has been since I sold it 5 years ago. 1967 Tempest 4 door OHC six - sold it to a buddy, who sold it to a girl, who daily drove it for a couple of years and then sold it in upstate ny in 2011. Haven't seen it since. 1957 fuelie 3 speed "duntov special" corvette - sold to my father in 1998. Currently sitting at a shop in NY waiting to get painted. again. other various cars I didn't care enough about to remember like my corvair, extremely rusty 1971 El Camino, 1977 Bandit T/A? who knows. Two of them were barely running projects, and there are a number of flip cars I don't even remember at the moment.

This times a million. I had a 2014 Altima rental car with 2500 miles on it - CVT and a 4 banger. Because of this car any time a rental agency asks me if a Nissan is ok, I ask for just about anything else. The interior was nice enough, the car size was fine, but the drive-train and handling made me want to light it on fire. I honestly thought it was the worst car in the world until I rented a Chrysler 200.

Thanks doc.

I know Doc does it, but who else? I really want to do this but want to pick some more brains before going ahead with it. Who out there Races in the ECTA and what do you race?

have you suggested he "kill it with fire"? Also have you checked with Jasper and EngineGuy? Gonna be like $5K for a reman which is way more than a 1990 Deville is worth. Like a lot more. Like $4999 more.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1470_zpsle5lhzd9.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1481_zpskwns32wp.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1495_zpsrynn4jd0.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1502_zpsdwt8jjh5.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1504_zps6v70buma.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1515_zpsz2cjcn6q.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1518_zpszlab4ebo.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1524_zpstl44e9vr.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1599_zpshp9ovgzj.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1605_zps94axxlb9.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/_MG_1552_zpshkdbzpbi.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/_MG_1564_zpslby0hn3u.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/_MG_1594_zpsogoep2gy.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1397_zpsmpqsmpw8.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1399_zps0fukeohx.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1405_zpsssjtvmgn.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1419_zpswnwbaywy.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1440_zpsmado0nag.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1446_zps8icoxc4e.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1448_zps8wosw2pd.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1465_zps6tgzcces.jpg

Pics from the event: http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1365_zps7jcfhjiq.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1366_zpsk9wkhwfx.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1367_zps1jdjbs4p.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1369_zpsgcd9er5h.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1370_zpsbnmye1so.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1372_zps2cypi1sf.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1384_zpsexpboix3.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1385_zpshxpzz8ad.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1390_zpsyjfqinmw.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1393_zpskciz2ck8.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f102/Geeto67/ECTA%20Ohio%20Mile%20May%202%202015/IMG_1395_zps6vg5pdcg.jpg

it's a 1.8T? pull the valve cover and look to see if it is sludgy.

Automatic....the discount is having to live with the shame of a two pedal exotic.

It is known as the most unreliable audi of the modern era. In fact it is so stereotypically bad that jalopniks doug Demuro uses the allroad as the unit of measure for how unreliable and expensive a car can be. Yes the air suspension fails, yes the 2.7 turbo eats turbo couplings and bleeds boost, yes it is filled with a lot of electronic wizardry that will break, yes the v8 models may need timing chain done...yes to all.

Stay the fuck away from the allroad. Seriously.