slow4now

I wouldn't want to exceed 80% duty cycle if those are top feed injectors. I don't want to make any suggestions on a possible setup b/c I realy don't know that much about it, but maybe you should head over to RC Engineering where you can calculate the proper fuel injector size for your desired horsepower. I also agree with RL and recommend upgrading your fuel lines if you are still using the stockers.If you don't upgrade it'll be lock trying to put a square peg through a round hole! I'm sure someone on here will know exactly what size lines you should go with.

There is some good info in this thread.

On second (or third) you should trap higher than that, now that I think about it a stock civic EX should trap around 84MPH....... Deflate your tires to around 20psi. The amount of weight, the relative humidity,and wether you chirp your tires when shifting or not can all affect trap speed. What kind of gas are you using? If you are using BP, start using Shell or Sunoco (realy anything other than BP). Also, what kind of spark plug wires are you using? If you arent using the factory wires that could be another problem. Are you using NGK plugs?You could also check your timing, thats free horsepower. Thats about all I can think of for now.

Thanks for the replys guys. I also thought of it in the same terms as breaks, it's just two surfaces rubbing together. So you have to properly heat cycle them just like new brakes. I must've scrubbed off at least a few hundred miles of clutch life this weekend

Well from searching on the net all I am coming up with is that it helps the clutch disc properly seat with the flywheel. So I guess it takes down the high spots more gradually. I still don't see why it would matter whether you took the high spots down in 50 miles of driving or 500.......hmmm

I have heard time and time again that people insist on breaking in their clutches for x amount of miles. Why is that? I can't think of any reason you would need to, but if their is a good reason I would like to know it. I mean it's just a spring with two surfaces that rub together, it isn't like there are any rings that need to seat like when breaking in an engine. Anyone have any insight besides "because that's what your'e supposed to do"....???? No smarty-pants replies, I honestly would like to know. Thanks!

Hey, thought I would let you know there is a Crane Interceptor for sale in the Garage Sale forum for $500. It says it's for a Mustang, you may want to check it out!

That's pretty much how they drive, so short of dumping quite a bit of money into it you will have to live with it. Sorry man!

Well I appreciate and accept your apology. It isn't often when someone has the backbone to do so. For that, I salute you! smile.gif

Honestly it sounds like your car is fine. Your trap speed is about where it should be, although you should be able to get your ET down to a 15.5-15.7. Stock Prelude SH's trap in the mid-80's so it doesn't sound like anything is wrong to me. smile.gif

For the slow kids in the class, I was commenting on the best way to check the condition of his turbo. I was not trying to diagnoss his oil leak. I have a friend that had his turbo rebuilt at Maejestic and it seems to be holding up just fine. As far as your other comment, it just shows how truly pathetic your little ego is, to feel the need to make a derogatory comment towards me for trying to help someone out. I guess when you don't have the balls to confront people in real life you might have some pent up aggression that you need to relieve on a message board. Pathetic. graemlins/gay.gifgraemlins/fruit.gifgraemlins/asshole.gif

Get a Tial wastegate. Deltagates are known to have problems with boost spiking, get a Tial and I promise you will not be sorry!

The amount of shaft play on the turbo is a much better indicator of it's condition than oil being in the inlet. If you end up needing the turbo rebuilt, I recommend sending it to a reputable shop that can balance it, as a turbo can spin anywhere from 75,000- 100,000+ RPM. Having it out of balance by only replacing the seals + bearings will just make it wear out sooner. Look up Majestic Turbo on google.com, they are a pretty good shop.

Hite Parts Exchange on McKinnely Ave. cleans and balances fuel injectors, it costs $25 each injector. I have never had them do this for me, but I know a few repair shops use them. Just curious, but how much fuel pressure are you running? What fuel pump are you running? Is your fuel pressure regulator in good shape? Is your fuel filter clean/free of blockage? These are all thing I would check out, unless you know for a fact that those injectors aren't supposed to be big enough. Go to www.raceeng.com, they have injector calculations setup so you can figure out what size injector you need (you must supply some info first though). It sounds to me like your injectors could be starved for fuel, so even at 100% duty cycle (the injectors are stuck open at this point) they aren't getting enough fuel to the engine. Well, hopefully I'm not too far off with any of my suggestions. Later!

On your AC Condenser it should say how much pressure to charge the system to. Your new lines should be ably to withstand that much, somewhere around 25psi I would guess.

Mark, I would be glad to take the bearings to work to press the old ones out and the new ones in. If you plan on removing everything on Sunday, I can do it for you Monday and have them back to you that afternoon. Let me know if that's cool. Later.

Good info Brett. Also to add to that, depending on how many miles are on your car, if it's time to change the timing belt then it is also time for a new water pump. Mitsubishi recommends a T-belt service every 60,000 miles and you don't want to wait a mile over that, trust me.

Well if you are worried about the environment, you can stop im my work sometime and I will hook you up on draining the refrigerant (as far as I know we shouldn't need any adapters, but I cannot make any promises). If you don't care about that sort of thing just drain the freon and move whatever hoses it is that you need to move. If you still want help PM me and I would be glad to assist. Later!

Well as you know AC is a closed system, if you open it up it will need to be recharged later. What exactly do you have a question about?

If you want something done professionally, I have a friend that works at a shop in Dayton. He can build you a fiberglass box or whatever else you want for a reasonable price. PM me if you are interested.

Actually the main benefit from not having rear speakers is that it brings the soundstage to where it's supposed to be, in the front of the car.

A wastegate is just the method of controlling the amount of boost produced by a turbo.It goes on the exhaust side of the turbo, and recieves a pressure signal from the compressor side of the turbo or from the intake. It allows exhaust gas to bypass the turbine, this limiting the amount of boost created. There are two types of wastegates, internal and external. A BOV goes anywhere between the compressor side of the turbo and the throttle body. It is used to prevent compressor surge. Compressor surge is caused when the positive pressure created by the turbo bounces off of a closed throttle plate (when shifting at WOT for example) and causes the compressor to slow down and spin the other way. This is very hard on the bearings of the turbo, and also increases lag because the turbo looses inertia and must be spooled again. MAF's sensors convert the amount of air entering the intake into a voltage signal for the ECU. The ECU then knows what the engine load is and adds fuel accordingly. If any air is lossed that was measured by the MAF a rich-run condition occurs, becuase there isn't enough air to go with the fuel that was dialed in by the ECU. So a BOV that vents to the atmosphere can cause problems with cars that have MAF's, like when going off throttle from WOT. It should be noted that there are different MAF designs (vane and Karmen come to mind, I'm sure there are others). Some BOV's work better venting to the atmosphere when installed on a MAF metered car than others. The HKS SS works well, the Greddy Type-S and Apex-i Twin-Chamber don't. If I were you, I would use an external wastegate as internal wastegates can have problems with boost creep when running high boost. Just make sure that the external wastegate mounts at the collector (for lack of a better term, it may be the proper one I dunno!)of the mannifold and not in any one exhaust mannifold runner. I hope I am making some sort of sense! Later.

Were these aftermarket or factory speakers? A good aftermarket speaker will be made out of materials that resist the effects of UV rays.

If you have a torch and a press you shouldn't have much trouble putting in urathane bushings.

Hate to be Captain Obvious here, but are you sure it isn't just tire squeal? [ 06 July 2002, 07:45 PM: Message edited by: slow4now ]