Nitrousbird

Exactly

I put in the thumbs tag. smile.gif In response to the plate on this WRX, would "AND SUCCEEDED" fit on my plate?

My buddy that was going to help w/ the exhaust on the Formula is too busy. I was going to have Rolla do it, but his mig died on him. Next in line, Eagle Muffler. - Where is it?? - Are they open Saturdays? - Do they require appointments, or is it first come, first serve - Is there a certain person I should contact....especially since mine will be a...errr..."off-road" setup - Do they force you to use their stuff, or can they weld up what you have (I have everything you need, just don't have welder or chop saw to do it). - How are their rates?? I'm doing a very simple 3" true duals setup through my torque arm mount crossmember; I already checked for fittament, and should be an hour job w/ someone skilled at welding and on a lift.

What's more expensive on the LS1 OTHER than re-sleving the block in a big-bore application, assuming one doesn't swap to a 6L iron block or expensive C5-R block?? I own both, and would definately say I'd MUCH rather build an F-body. I just did a back to back drive between mine, and excluding the better handling/FAR more power my Formula has, the Formula just feels more sporty. From a stock vs. stock perspective, I even enjoyed daily driving my Formula more back when it served that purpose. As for ease of working on, my Formula is definately easier to work on.....now I also have headers, !AIR, !A/C which made a huge difference in that. Owning both, I am honestly very surprised that people choose the Mustang over the F-body.

It's Camaro.

Yeah. I run a Mallory Hyfire IV and an MSD coil. I am one of the lucky ones who has never had a problem w/ their MSD coil. I went through 3 MSD Digital 6+ (good warranties, thank god)boxes before selling it for the less expensive and far more feature rich Mallory unit. Unless you are going w/ a power adder, or a big dollar N/A setup, an aftermarket igntion and coil would be a complete waste of money. The Delteq and LTCC units aren't really useful for near stock cars either. And at $190 shipped for a new vented GM opti, it's not all that expensive to replace.

Jegs.

It's alright. Saw a new S281 in Vegas one of the casinos were giving as a slot machine prize. They had it out in the open. Looking at the sticker, and seeing what the car was, it is better looking than a stock GT, but I'd have to be smoking some bad crack to buy that when I could get a C6 for the same money.

The Delteq Stage I (haven't checked to see if the stage II setup has been released yet...probably not) and LTCC both still require the use of the optical side of the opti, so if that is going, you are still screwed. But 67k isn't really that bad; my non-vented lasted until 80k of abuse, 30k of that w/ an aftermarket coil and ignition.

So fake....we all know MTV doesn't play music videos. tongue.gif

Powerdynes are cheaper than other supercharger kits for a reason. They are good for stock applications making low boost. Come time to bump up the power, they are worthless. Ask Nick why his GT no longer sports a Powerdyne, and the numerous belts he had to replace on it (car came w/ it....he knew better than to actually waste money on one). You save a little $$ up front, but loose all of that savings and then some in the long run. This applies for sure to the Mustang and F-body world, and I'm sure most other makes they build superchargers for. Too many other good kits out there from quality builders to waste your time w/ a Powerdyne.

Green = Granny Smith. Amber > Granny Smith, though I enjoy both. Sadly, it's impossible to find in Reynoldsburg; I have to visit Canal or Picktown to get any. K is also good, but I haven't seen any for a few years. Same goes w/ Cider Jack. Everyone sells Hornsbeys, but that stuff is piss water by comparison.

I didn't realize Jet was a piggy-back module (as not many people run these); I figured it was the same as a Hyperjunk, just a PCM flasher. Regardless, unplug it. When my Opti went, I never had a high miss, it actually ran like crap in lower RPM's. That said, the Opti died VERY soon afterwords (like later that day). Bad gas doesn't necessarily mean low ocatane. Could be simply too much water in it. I'm no gasoline expert or anything, but I know I've had a couple of bad batches in daily drivers that the car just doesn't run as well until my next fill up, and fine from then on.

Is that a Woodchuck Amber in Adam's hand?? If so, graemlins/thumb.gif from me.

#1: Remove the Jet programming. Hell, I think I am able to tune your car via Tunercat I have; I have the 95 cable, unless the Vette PCM is different enough not to allow it. Assuming you really need any sort of tuning anyway; it's pretty good from the factory on a stock setup. I do have Datamaster EE Beta that can do the scan. #2: Possible bad gas. #3: I doubt it is the EGR systems. I could not tell any sort of difference w/ the car when I removed the EGR system. My roomate never had a problem w/ his gone...nor have I found anyone having a problem going !EGR on the reaseach I did before I decided to go do it. You could always pull the plug to the unit itself (back driver's side of the intake manifold) to find out. #4: Though the Opti is unfairly blammed for everything, and you do have the better vented 95-97 Opti, it could be starting to fail. I'd say if you noticed it just this week, try some new gas first. Then pull the Jet Programming (it's not a chip people). Always go w/ the easiest solutions first. Also, does it do this when cold, or only when the car is warmed up??

99 T/A (Adam D....which really should be 03 Z06), and Wease (Sean) both rented Vipers in Vegas. I think they spent ~ $400/each on them for a day. I believe Adam had a GEN-II motored RT/10 while Sean had a GEN-I motored car. Neither of them liked the car. Adam felt his Z06 handled as well/better and was about as fast (and of course his T/A was faster), as did Sean before he put his car back to stock. Neither liked how car rode and drove, and both complained about the clutch pedal on them.

Like Garrett said, there isn't anything you can do, other than LEARN from your current mistake. #1: Don't play musical cars; you'll almost always end up losing money #2: Negative equity is a bad thing....it makes a bad situation worse. I've never traded in/sold a car that I didn't already have paid off 100%. #3: Research and really know what kind of car you want, and have it be one you will want to KEEP. I've had the Formula for 6 years, paid it off, and will probably keep it forever. Bought the Jimmy in cash from insurance money on my Blazer, which I also bought it cash and owned for 3 years. Bought the Moostang in cash, but it's at a point in age/mileage that as long as I keep it in it's current condition, I should be able to sell it for about what I paid for it. Overall, be smart about what kinds of vehicles you buy. And IMO, avoid buying brand new cars, the depreciation will almost always bite you in the ass. In your situation, keep the current car, take good care of it, and send in as much as you can afford in payments. Get it paid down enough to where you can sell it and break even....THEN buy what you want.

GMHTP driver took a broken in, bone stock down to the paper airfilter and tire pressure, 04 Z06 to 11.9x @ 119-120 (can't remember exactly, I have the article somewhere). Good driving, good weather, and good track. But high 13's in one....that's inexcusable!!

Here is my dilema. I've had American Family for over 3 years; they insure my 3 vehicles and my house. Never had much of a problem w/ them, and wouldn't mind staying with them. Then my first agent quits. I get tossed over to a second agent. A few months later, a 3rd agent (each further away from my house). Well, this new lady is some PITA Russian lady. I have to come in to change ANYTHING on my policy. Well, she finally pissed me off for the last time. I call in to take storage insurance off the Formula and go back to full coverage (had to do some stuff to it before I took it off). She tells me I have to drive it in so she can take pictures of it. Mind you the last 2 agents took pics of the car. And it has been insured w/ them for over 3 years; I'm just changing my coverages. The problem; I can't get in there. I NEVER get off work before 5, and she is closed at 5. I can't get in there whenever she is open, so I'm screwed. I need an insurance agency I can deal w/ over the phone. I DO NOT WANT AN INSURANCE AGENT. They are a PITA. I also need an insurance company that only looks back 3 years, not 5 (some do 3, some do 5). My roomate has Geico, but sadly they look back 5 years, which would screw me on rates. Can't do Progressive because they don't do home owners insurance, and the combined discount is always pretty good. Will NEVER do Allstate again, so they are out, as is American Family obviously. So if anyone knows of a place, PLEASE let me know. I want to drive my car again!!!!!

Ummm.....no. I assume you are talking about a street-style tranny, not some Jerico drag racing manual or the like. - Driveline/tire shock. You can load the driveline w/ an auto at launch, can't really do that w/ a stick car (I suppose a linelock + slipping then clutch slightly then a timed release would work, but you should get the picture here). - Torque multiplication. Manuals don't get those niffty things called torque converters. - Easier to launch, period. Far more consistancy, but not in the bracket racing sense, as in the you can come closer to your optimal launch every time vs. hope I don't shock the tires loose + hope dropped the clutch at the right speed + hope I gave the right amount of gas while letting out the clutch. And this is coming from someone who races a manual transmission car. Simply put, tossing a TH400 w/ even just a 3000 stall would make my car EASILY make my car ET significantly better. But I don't want my Formula to be a drag-racing only setup.....at least until I can get a second toy to play with (Moostang doesn't count, it gets no more respect than being a daily beater).

You said you didn't want to be the only 9 second car at the track, implying your car runs and/or is currently capable of running 9's. It isn't. Well, that statement is totally wrong. There are several LT1/LS1 F-body's in the 9's on the T56. If I recall, out of the fastest 6-speed F and Y body cars, the F-body is still the fastest (Tanner's nitrous powered Z28, which should be faster this year, as there is some more serious F-body 6-speed competition coming out this season). And if you think a 01 Z06 on some spray and slicks The fact remains everything else being fairly equal, the auto is going to ET better than a street-type manual transmission.

No.

I hope you are joking....you won't be getting into the 9's w/ that power and a 6-speed. Ain't gonna happen. MAYBE w/ an auto and a PROPERLY setup suspension/tires.

I just cut my back yard for the first time this past Sunday. It was pretty freaking high, not 4' high, but high. My old mower died, my roomate hooked me up w/ a nearly new 3.5HP el' cheapo mower. I figured this thing didn't have a prayer, but this little thing busted through it FAR better than my old mower could have ever dreamed of.

This shit is getting old....I'm just putting these damn flaming threads into the flame room.