Nitrousbird

None of us thought you would stick around anyway, so why not have fun with you???

None of us thought you would stick around anyway, so why not have fun with you???

A "your momma" joke....man when you bring it, you bring it both Fast and Furiously.

A "your momma" joke....man when you bring it, you bring it both Fast and Furiously.

So what are you racing that made you want to consider joining Columbusracing.com??

So what are you racing that made you want to consider joining Columbusracing.com??

Why didn't you stop?? I definately would have, at least in an area like that, which isn't really a high crime area.

My g/f isn't a minor, she just doesn't turn 21 for a few more months. I'm not sure if the rules are different in that case.

Bill from COFBA was doing it for around $2/lb last time I had him fill mine, but I'm not sure if he is still buying it in bulk or not. He did the freeze method, but I'd just take him an already frozen bottle, so it didn't take long to fill.

Honestly, other than my motor letting go unexpectedly (sadly, not the only piece of machinery I've had that happen to), I'd totally disagree with that. Before that, it was nickel and dime stuff; normal maintance associated w/ any motorized transportation, an alternator, and a battery due to that bad alternator. I love owning a boat, just this motor thing really set me back.

For some reason I think that thing would be dangerous to ride.

89 Sea Ray 160, Bowrider, 130HP Mercruiser I/O, Alpha 1 outdrive. Sadly, it hasn't ran in a while. 2 pistons w/ holes in them killed the motor. Block also has a crack in an external water jacket, which is my biggest problem, as getting a good block for these motors is next to impossible (GM still sells this motor brand new in crate form, but doesn't sell bare blocks ). When it ran, took it to Alum and have taken it to Cumberland. It will pull be up on Slalom, which is what's important to me. The boat is definately in good shape for its age! With any luck, I might actually have it out on the water this summer. Should be cake once the motor is put back together, as it only took an hour start to finish to fully pull it out of the boat. But gotta replace the motor on the tow vehicle before working on it.

89 Sea Ray 160, Bowrider, 130HP Mercruiser I/O, Alpha 1 outdrive. Sadly, it hasn't ran in a while. 2 pistons w/ holes in them killed the motor. Block also has a crack in an external water jacket, which is my biggest problem, as getting a good block for these motors is next to impossible (GM still sells this motor brand new in crate form, but doesn't sell bare blocks ). When it ran, took it to Alum and have taken it to Cumberland. It will pull be up on Slalom, which is what's important to me. The boat is definately in good shape for its age! With any luck, I might actually have it out on the water this summer. Should be cake once the motor is put back together, as it only took an hour start to finish to fully pull it out of the boat. But gotta replace the motor on the tow vehicle before working on it.

89 Sea Ray 160, Bowrider, 130HP Mercruiser I/O, Alpha 1 outdrive. Sadly, it hasn't ran in a while. 2 pistons w/ holes in them killed the motor. Block also has a crack in an external water jacket, which is my biggest problem, as getting a good block for these motors is next to impossible (GM still sells this motor brand new in crate form, but doesn't sell bare blocks ). When it ran, took it to Alum and have taken it to Cumberland. It will pull be up on Slalom, which is what's important to me. The boat is definately in good shape for its age! With any luck, I might actually have it out on the water this summer. Should be cake once the motor is put back together, as it only took an hour start to finish to fully pull it out of the boat. But gotta replace the motor on the tow vehicle before working on it.

Sadly, it was $400 for the late spring/summer/early fall. But it was literally a 45 second drive from the boat ramp. That said, the only reason I did it was that I didn't have a place to park my boat at the time. Now that I have a house, it's easier to keep it here; then I can prep it/work on it at my leisure. Last time I checked into getting a slip at Alum, it was not an easy task. I "think" they do slip bids in the fall. Plus, there are extra things you SHOULD do for your boat when it stays in the water (keep battery charged so bilge can run so your boat won't sink, very regular cleaning of the hull, etc.). But to be able to just walk out to the boat and go is definately nice. The first time we went to Cumberland, we had a lodge that included 2 covered boat slips. Very awesome setup, as you could just start up the boat and go, just like a car....no taking the cover off or any other BS. Tie-up was cake there too. Houseboats are even easier, as you just pull up and tie to the house boat.

Sadly, it was $400 for the late spring/summer/early fall. But it was literally a 45 second drive from the boat ramp. That said, the only reason I did it was that I didn't have a place to park my boat at the time. Now that I have a house, it's easier to keep it here; then I can prep it/work on it at my leisure. Last time I checked into getting a slip at Alum, it was not an easy task. I "think" they do slip bids in the fall. Plus, there are extra things you SHOULD do for your boat when it stays in the water (keep battery charged so bilge can run so your boat won't sink, very regular cleaning of the hull, etc.). But to be able to just walk out to the boat and go is definately nice. The first time we went to Cumberland, we had a lodge that included 2 covered boat slips. Very awesome setup, as you could just start up the boat and go, just like a car....no taking the cover off or any other BS. Tie-up was cake there too. Houseboats are even easier, as you just pull up and tie to the house boat.

Just don't pay them. smile.gif Well, I guess they can easily track that out-of-state purchase.

If you have a welder and the ability to weld, I'm dragging your ass over here. I think I have the whole setup figured out, just need to do some butt welds to get'er done.

I see your fair share of nice cars over here on the East side. East side is closer to Trails. East side Jegs definately gets its gatherers. Mopar Nationals on Brice every year.

1407

I take pride in not ever watching that shitty movie. Nothing wrong with a complicated manifold w/ a QUALITY wet kit, as long as you don't have a problem w/ puddling and get even distribution (his puddling was most likely due to low RPM in his case). He may not have had a purge kit, so that's a good way to clear the line without one.

Ack, some mis-information. Firehawks are different, depending on the years. - 91/92, the 3rd Gen hawks. It is something like 26 or 28 were made. There were a few very special models from those as well (a couple w/ full road-race cages, one came w/ a fuel cell stock, etc.). Very rare and EXPENSIVE cars now, and quite collectable. - 93-97. WS6-ish looking hood (though not the same), slightly different airbox than the WS6. 17" rims, and other SLP options. All were Formulas except for the 12 T/A Hawks made in 94. There was also the LT4 Hawk in 97, which commands top dollar. A few of the years could be optioned w/ the uplevel spoiler as well, even though they are Formulas. SLP also did the WS6's for the LT1's. - 99-02. There was no 98 Hawk (only prototypes w/ the exposed headlights they never released). Different Ram-Air hoods w/ heat extractors. More options avaiable than you could get on a WS6 (which SLP no longer built). Different 17" wheels. Could be had in both Formula and T/A versions, though T/A's were the most popular. 4 spoiler options; standard low and upper level spoilers, the fairly rare early optional spoiler than looked sort of like the low level spoler but a bit taller w/ winglets on it (I like it). They also had another, more common, spoiler w/ a long LED 3rd brake light on the back. A special 10th Anv. edition was also avaiable. As far as normal RPO late F-body's go, Firehawks hold their value better than any others (30th Anv. WS6 is pretty close tough). And w/ the right dealer (though easier said than done), could be had for only a little more than a WS6, making them an excellent buy. This is all off the top of my head. HP ratings varied, and depends if the car were optioned w/ the optional exhausts and lids (for the LS1 cars). The 91-92 Hawks varied a lot more, and are a species all their own, though it's very rare to see one for sale, as there are so few of them. As for the different kinds of Firebirds: Firebird/Firebird GT = V6 Formula = V8 Trans-Am = V8 (except for the 89 TTA) There is no such thing as JUST a WS6 or Firehawk, they are packages on a Formula or Trans-Am. And there is NO SUCH THING AS A V6 FORMULA though you will see retarded V6 owners try to badge their cars as such.

I don't come out to Cols Racing meets often, but have brought it out (hell, I don't think you've ever seen me outside of work!). I haven't gotten it out of its winter slumber quite yet....I've been too lazy, as I need to rebuild the exhaust setup, and do some brake work. Speaking of which, I need to get off my ass and start working on it.

The only thing Ford showed me was an ugly car.

Too bad he wasn't running a NOS kit..... Looks like he is running a TNT kit, and they are known for making some pretty nice stuff. From what I've heard, the guy's window switch broke, so he bypassed it to run. You can get away with that and not have a problem, as it is just a safety item. Of course, when you NEED that safety item (especially on a stick car), you'll wish you had it. IIRC, the car bogged badly out of the hole, he went WOT (was using an WOT switch to activate), and basically sprayed at very low RPMS, which is BAD. It's a wet kit, and it caused puddling in the intake, had a nitrous backfire due to the low RPM's/detonation, and blew the intake apart. This damaged the fuel lines, and started a fire. This is also why FAST incorporates blow out panels into their LS1 intakes, as the composite intakes don't take to a nitrous backfire very well. Me personally, I never run without a window switch. If I was going the budget route on an auto AND used an activation button w/ a WOT switch, I might consider it, but even then that gets dangerous if the tranny decides not to shift and you hit the factory fuel cut.