twistedfocus1647545489

MegamanEXE was most likely referring to these (or maybe not), but they are still extremely impactical in my opinion.

Speaking of Wife 1.0 - Don't you have an upgrade scheduled sometime soon?

That makes more sense. I haven't seen one spike like that, so I assumed it wasn't a graph from his Cobra.

Yeah, I would think Diesel also. or possibly someone's nitrous bottle pressure dropped rapidly during the run, as in it ran out or nearly out (assuming it's even using nitrous)?

...I guess I do have a bit of a potty-mouth at times... It's not that bad. Besides it helps that I'm a mumbler.

+1 for the Steyr, that's a great (and kinda neat) gun Damn, I wish I had the money. I should have never sold my M40. I just couldn't find a good holster for it at the time, prompting the purchase of "The Noisy Cricket".

Eric should chime in soon... That huge bitch is 6'8'' 6'2" here

I know. I was mostly joking in return.

Took me a sec, but then I got it. Clarification: That would be the Deer variety of Buck.

That's weird because I too have never done drugs, am 27 and look maybe 17 if you squint a little. Also, I have been attacked numerous times by wild animals. Twice by squirrels. Twice by Geese. Once by a Buck. I am concidering carrying a shotgun at all times because, apparently, I need the protection.

I would look at the TPS if it's mostly hesitation from takeoff. TPSs work alot like old post style radio knobs, and just like them when they get old they can get dead spots or "noise" and need replaced. Also, just like radio knobs going bad where they are most used... TPSs tend to have issues with the first part of the travel since it is the part most used. You can hook an analog (dial, not a digital) voltmeter too it and watch it sweep as you open the throttle slowly. If it jumps or hesitates in a certain spot, replace the TPS. Edit: See above - My long winded responses take a long time to post .

That seems to work pretty well. A friend of mine recently did that to a set of coated Flowtechs and they came out decent. Jeg's has a polish made specifically for ceramic coated headers. It might be worth a try after scrubbing also (although I have no personal experience with it.) http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=28577

Apparently I am missing it too. Maybe the no-name-given "newer" tires on it are VERY expensive???

Just in case you're keeping a list, I won't be racing. I'll probably still come out to spectate, but I blew a cross-threaded brake line fitting out today while data-logging and can't get the parts until friday afternoon. Kind of figures it would hold for almost 2 years and blow out just days before i make it out to the track.

Hmm, not sure where to look next. I am out of ideas.

In BIOS under the Advanced section. Usually Auto will work fine, but if the board has dipswitches for CPU Multiplier or CPU Integer that are set incorrectly, it may default to an improper speed, although in my experience the few times I have encountered this it defaulted to a lower speed than it should have rather than higher. You might find recommended values in the paperwork for the CPU and try manually setting them in the BIOS just to be sure it's correct. Also, a lot of boards will display the clock speed when it posts (near the memory count). If it seems way off, you're on the right track. I kind of doubt this would be an issue, but it's worth a check, I guess. Another random thing that just occurred to me. Maybe the power supply is flaky? Do you have another one laying around with the proper plugs that you can try? I only had a bad one once and had intermittent stability issues and shutoffs. That experience is what began my strict adherence to Antec cases and power supplies. Just another shot in the dark, but fairly easy thing to check/eliminate.

I wouldn't think it would be an issue, but do you think it might be overheating? When you put the heatsink on, did you use compound (some heatsinks alread have a "blanket" on them and don't need it though)? Also, maybe the settings on the board might be incorrect for the processor making it run overclocked and overheating or becoming unstable? So, I'd probably watch the temps after it has been running for a while, although that might be hard to do without windows loaded. You can probably watch it in the BIOS, but you obviously won't be putting much load on it. Also verify the FSB and clock speed are correct. Just throwing out random thoughts. That's the only other things I can think of right now.

This lady needs shot +1 Reading that made me bleed out of my ear a little.

Their site won't load the page for the CPU for me. It may not matter b/c I suck at trying to put things together in my head. It definately sounds like somethings plugged in the wrong place or something that should be plugged in is not. It may be best to go one by one and verify all the leads from the PS to the MB are correct (not that you haven't already). I had a similar issue with a Athalon 64 right after they came out. I put it all together from memory and never looked into the fact that with the 64 processor I needed to use one of the small leads from the PS that I never had used before (thought it was just more of the proprietary P4 leads). Once I plugged it in, boom - it worked great. When I have problems like this, it always seems to be some small thing I have overlooked (although there have been some rare occasions I have had a dead HD or board..

I'll be there most likely getting spanked by the Vert and Cows... Real Cows. I need to find someone with some DRs on 16" or 17" mustang wheels to steal (borrow) as well. Might break into the 13's .

I think I recognize that 93 GT ... Don't forget the fuel pump for sure... I'm pretty sure I'm in pending getting the day off work. (emailed)

I would probably buy/borrow an Air/Fuel ratio gauge (prefereably a wideband) before you spend alot of money on parts. Also, having no emissions equipment and an aftermarket cam with more overlap than stock (not a huge cam, but significant change from stock), can conspire to make for a pretty strong fuel odor even when the car is at or near running correct A/F. Also, as noted above, you could always drag it to the dyno and use their wideband to check it (and maybe tune with the FPR and timing a little while you're at it).

Normally, most guys running split-ratio rockers put the higher ratio on the intake side (mostly old-school Chevy guys). Nowadays with modern, efficient cam grinds available and aftermarket heads with a good intake/exhaust flow balance, there is little need for such a thing. My guess would be that the guy did that on purpose b/c the factory ford heads are notorious for having very weak exhaust flow and thought that would be a good way to bring some balance back. So, it's not what is normally done, but I could see someones possible reasoning for doing it.

When mine breaks, it's Eric's fault. (Nther91) :nutkick:

I'm far too impatient to do alot of the work on my car (cars?) without the assistance of my friends. I'm too easily frustrated when it comes to working on MY stuff especially. If I ever had any money I would love to just buy the parts and see the finished product without anything further than handing over a check. Even though I have alot of knowledge, I am no mechanic by any means and never could be. I agree that tearing stuff apart and dealing with making whole again is the best way to learn and is a good way to teach you respect for some parts of it (like: "I'm never gonna' break that again, it's too much of a pain to fix"), but I don't think there's anything wrong with farming out whatever work you can afford to. I'd do it if I could.