Trouble Maker

http://www.gofundme.com/laruensnewphone

I'm sure someone not licensed, insured, bonded, doesn't pull permits, basically no official warranty, can get it done for cheaper. That's your call on what you want to do. I can't imagine not getting nailed for a non-permitted roof in UA. That seems reasonable for the shingle roof, we went with a metal roof last year. We had companies we got quotes from do quotes for shingles too, just to understand the difference. They were all in the $5~7k range for less than half of that many squares, I can't remember how many exactly. I think one place said 13 or 15, but by my calcs now say it should be closer to 10~11. So, those prices seem really reasonable from my experience last year. That gutter price seems ridiculous. The material is almost nothing, compared to that quote. I think I paid ~$100-$150 for half round (a little more expensive) custom rolled onsite (1 piece) for ~25' long gutter. The other parts was maybe another $100ish. I put up a new fascia on the front of the house and gutter, and new gutter and soffit last year on the back. The soffit and fascia were the time consuming parts. I thought I remember you saying something about some fascia work in the past? That'll could jack the cost up quite a bit. The gutter install is a pretty small amount of time, if it's just straight runs. Maybe your install is complex or you have a ton of linear footage?

I'm honestly not sure I could tell you if something is an Am or Prix of that era if you showed me a picture that didn't also have the badge in it.

Are you thinking about the Grand Prix with the turbo? I don't remember Doug owning a Saturn, but I could just not be remembering.

Maybe my terminology is wrong? Mini-Split=1 head unit (indoor part) + 1 condenser (outdoor unit) per zone, completely separate systems, as many 'sets' as zones Multi-Split= N head unit + 1 condenser, where N=number of zones Not a perfect picture, but if we went 2 zone, it would be like zones 1 & 3; top is mini-split and bottom is multi-split, I think. http://www.earthenergyinnovations.com/sites/default/files/blog-images/Multi%20Zone%20Vs%20Single%20Zone%20Ductless%20Mini%20Splits.jpg So, I'm thinking multi-split, unless there is some efficiency, or more importantly economical or pratical application reason I don't know about with many mini-splits. I would think 1 condenser=less cost than many. A coworker just did a mini-split for his master suit above his garage since it's blazing hot up there in the summer. His house is fairly new, and they have geo-thermal. So, the ability to add cooling BTUs to just 1 room was perfect for him. Since our system is old and (figuratively) busted, I would think do the whole system (by multi-split) would work best? You mean down to -10 to -5 F? Do they still have electric emergency backup?

So, our HVAC in the house is 27 years old, so it's just a matter of, probably a short time until it needs replaced. Our house has our main bedroom upstairs in the attic space, which was added on. In the winter the temperatures variations across the house is Ok. But in the summer it's probably 10~15 degrees hotter up there. There are 2 sends and 1 return for ~250~300sq ft, so I think it's just the fact that it's in the attic. We got a white metal roof put on last year, it seems like it made no difference in temperature difference, but that makes sense sine it covers the whole house. We run a window a/c unit in the summer up there. But, honestly I hate having to deal with that thing. Our house is only ~1200sqft, so it's not large. Overall, I'm really liking the idea of some kind of zone control; at least 2 zones, 1 up and 1 down, but maybe split the downstairs into 2 zones. I'd also like to move out of the way or eliminate some ducts down in the basement. The ceilings are short (7'6") and I'd eventually like to finish down there, but some things need moved first; HVAC, some ducting & hot water heater. I've bee doing a bit of digging, and it seems like a good solution might be a milti-split system, with the duct connected type of indoor unit. Due to ascetics we don't want the units that hang on the wall or are built into the ceiling. There's reasonable crawl space in the attic for an inside unit. There's a kind of concrete shelf that goes around the whole basement perimeter that I'm hoping the downstairs units could sit on. Anyone have any thoughts? Can we still run (smaller) 'whole zone' humidifier on these units? How's the heat capability in the newer heat pump units? We had an 'older' heat pump unit in an apartment and it was just ok for heating.

Fuck, if someone around me feel 30 feet straight down out of a tree onto concrete and didn't die, I'm calling Rome to verify a miracle, not an ambulance. Sorry, I'm of no help to the OP, except to say, good luck with everything. You'll need it since you've used all of yours up.

Paint job looks cloudy.

Yeah, if it's just him and the boat, he's not driving at higher speeds, far, etc, he's probably fine. If the boat is full of fluids, loaded with gear, he has people in the car, he'll likely be over GCWR. I'm sure Ford has some good reason they rated it at what they did; look up the #'s. The suspension on that is not really designed for high weight loads that come along with towing/bed loads; it's only meant for 1 thing.

Yeah, be careful if you tow+gear+people, or just don't; from a quick guess/best #s I can find, you very well could be over GCWR. And that's assuming you have a weight distributing hitch; if not you are definitely over max tow weight already. Anyway, nice boat, should be fun. Especially on the lakes down there.

Use some of that headlight polisher on your phone's camera lens while you are at it.

“Something very fast. Audi S8. Something that can shove a little bit. I’m also gonna need a nitrous system.”

That's exactly why I said it was 10 years ago and put the comment above what you quoted about not knowing if their quality has improved. I don't know if you could tell, but I was being a bit hyperbolic. I'm just a user. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Still, if they were to change here, it better be backed up with data about reliability. Our laptop use is not a 'normal' environment. Anyway, I'll have to use whatever they give me and be 'happy' about it.

I'm surprised by all of the Dell suggestions, it seems like Dell's build quality has improved? I'm still permanently scared by my (personal and work) experiences from ~10 years ago. They were.... fine for personal use. For work use, or anything where you travel with the device, move around a lot, NEVER AGAIN. As soon as we switched over to IBM, the only issues we ever had were hard drives when using HDDs. Now that we've moved to SSD, we have very little issues. There's no way I wouldn't get a Lenovo if I wanted a full laptop that I moved around with. We beat the piss out of these things (Lenovo T-Series) and they are very reliable.

We have a chrome-book at home for general use? I've been toying around with the idea of a newer one that's a convertible (2-in-1). Honestly, if I had to use this thing for work I would have destroyed it in a fit of rage already, but that's because I do a ton of heavy power-point and excel work. That said, it really depends on what you will be doing with it. I think it could make sense for you to get something with a cell radio/sim slot in it. I would think doing the hotspot thing could be kind of a PITA. IIRC most (grandfathered) unlimited plans don't let you hotspot? Maybe the new plans are different, IDK, I've been with Google Fi for ~ 2.5 years now, so I haven't followed the new plans. Good call on microcenter, they have a ton of actual devices to try across the spectrum of brand and type. Does anyone know if any pico projectors are worth a shit yet? This could be an interesting use case.

I personally like taking surface streets when I do this type of thing, and I usually just randomly drive around. Maybe I like surface streets because I spend 35 minutes of my 40 minute (one way) commute on highways, they just feel boring to me. On what Scott said, one of the things I love about having a convertible that I didn't know or realize is the sights/founds/feels I notice, especially when going slower/stopped at lights. Like the underpass radiating heat on a cool night after a hot day, or the smell of the river as you drive over it. I can't imagine not having some kind of convertible in my life now after having owned one.

Yeah, his slum lord hood rentals != his new flavor of the month idea of selling houses.

I know the Jetta GLIs are nice and all.... but honestly they've never really struck me as looking that 'upscale'. Unfortunately if you are going to be picking up and driving clients around, you need to think about their perception of you due to your car.

It's really a shame they didn't do the CC in 2.0T w/AWD. I think that would check all of your boxes, and probably a ton of other peoples too.

How about a VW CC? From my memory the back seat seems like it would be a pretty nice place for clients. From a quick search you can get an AWD 2014 or newer with the 3.6L VR6 for about your price. Maybe one of the boxes it doesn't check is MPG, seems like the rating is 17/25.

https://www.google.com/search?q=focus+rear+wheel+drive

STi :gabe:

I probably need to do this on a spot on my lease car before I turn it in. Did you work with him directly, or through Dent Magic and ask for him?

Whatever you do make sure you make sure you stain your floors!!!! We only did poly, and it looks great; we got luck and didn't have any urine spots. Another set of friends only did poly, and had issues due to urine on the wood. The company that did our floors also warned us about this. The poly reacts with the urea and makes 'stain' spots in the floor, but the stain seals them in and it doesn't happen. It sounds like there would be quite a bit in your floors.

People who want to believe news stories that aren't true have decided they are biased (liberal) since they are further to the left of their own personal position (far right leaning).