Trouble Maker

That's probably a little bit like asking someone what number a random number generator will output before it outputs the number; there are probably a million different answers to that question. There are probably some laws around it, I don't know those. Every company, every part of each company are going to have some different rules. It probably depends on who you are in the company. It definitely depends on how far out from production you are and the level of the car. I would imagine with most companies driving any car outside of a closed 'secure' test course is usually going to require approval of the plan by management.

Who's Wish is this? Give a dying, eventually, probably when he's old Clay his wish of bikini car-washes every weekend?

You know how I know you didn't read the thread?

Was just a thought, completely understand why it's not possible. Yeah, I'll get some swill from my local coffee shop, but I'll definitely miss their jalapeno cheddar bagels. Agreed with others, bummer all of the way around!

Any 'food' coffee trucks that could come there every Saturday morning?

I'm honestly not even sure how to compare a place you can get a flat pack house and one where you can get a life times supply of shitter paper.

You have to be at least half potato to try to pull one over on customs.

If you go there and don't get the Swedish meatballs, you're doing something wrong in your life.

So, what do they do when 36/37 backs up because they shut down Polaris/Gemini?

Who would go there anytime soon after it opens? One could probably drive down to Cincinnati, go to Ikea there and get back more quickly than trying to go to the new Columbus one anytime within the first month or so. 5 MILES between Polaris and 36/37. What kinda fucked up map are they using? Way to go Dispatch, you never fail to meet exactly my expectations.

We are DYIing maybe half. We do already have one for the parts we are essentially subcontracting. They are working out well so far, but if we hit any snags and decide to go a different direction, I will contact him. Thanks! We aren’t looking for anything ‘fancy’ as far as features. We’d actually prefer mostly just ‘normal’ cabinets. We do want high quality built cabinets. I agree, it’s important to the quality and life of the cabinets. This is our forever house and we want to do this right the first time and not have to replace them soon. However, we do have a budget to (try to) stick to! Do you mind me asking about how much/ft or cabinet or something you paid? PM is perfectly ok. After doing some basic research online about price, range, etc. we put a place holder in our budget of $300/linear ft. We were leaning towards Quartz from everything we have been reading. Again, just a place holder based on online research, but we budgeted $150/sq ft installed. Seems like that should be close. Checked them out online, looks good! Just have to see if there are any showrooms in the Columbus area.

Doors We are putting in a french door in the back. Does anyone make a fiberglass french door w/9 lite prairie style simulated lite? Front door is original to the house and is this style and we'd like to match it. I've only been able to find a wood door, or wood clad interior in this style. That makes the price jump from $1-2k to $4k+ I'd probably say screw it and get the $4k door if that's all we were doing, but with us also doing the whole project right now I'm trying to be reasonable on price on all things so we don't get major price creep on the final cost. Plumbing, venting. Can I do an AAV (auto admittance vent) in my situation? The kitchen drain connects into the main drain in the basement right before it leaves the house. This same line goes over to the bathroom and the bathroom has a pretty big vent stack going out of the roof. I need to measure it to get the actual size. We are also getting a new roof put in due to some leaks and would like to put the least amount of holes up there as possible. If I can do an AAV for the sink/dishwasher and do the vent hood out of the side of the house, that's 2 less possible water ingress points which should make for a more reliable roof. It will also make the install a bit easier. Cabinets I have no idea what I'm doing here. Where to go, what to look for. The only thing I think I really want is all 'real' wood; I don't want basically any kind of particle board. We are bound by almost no measurements. All of our cabinets are 'free' on 1 side meaning they are only up against a wall on 1 side, so no custom sized cabinets. Kitchen is gutted down to the studs and I'll be moving plumbing and full rewiring so we aren't bound by appliance location other than our preferences. We went to a cabinet place and said 'this is what we wanted and she wanted blue prints and was making it way more difficult than what it should be given our situation. Countertops What does everyone like? My preference would be for something durable and little to no maintenance.

I don't get the third pic down; why the picture of an empty garage?

I did a really quick googles search and some news articles says 'billions' in overall subsidies for Musk's companies. That includes SpaceX so I'm assuming a big chunk of it is there since we (United States) are essentially offloading part of our space program to them and every dollar we pay them is probably under that umbrella and could easily be called a subsidy. Telsa the car company got a $45x Million loan from the DOE, all of which they paid back. I assume that they probably got a slightly smaller interest rate than they would have through the free market which maybe saved (subsidized) them somewhere in the 100's of thousands of dollar range. So, only a factor of 1,000-10,000 off. Edit: Getttoooooo some # does bring up another good point; tax credits, carbon credits, etc. They probably 'get' quite a bit of money through that.... but any other company is welcome to do what Tesla is doing and 'get' those same things. I think if someone has an issue with any of this money, they need to be upset about the programs and what they are trying to do.

You're reading too much Breitbar, put down the kool-aid son.

As the world grows in numbers, capability, ability, and peoples standard of living increase the progression has been for people to become more and more specialized with what they do; jobs, careers, hobbies, skills. As that's been happening, we are 'offloading' more and more to other people who specialize in some other area different from ourselves. These clothing services are just another version of that. I think anyone here who uses a service like this has said something along the lines of how easy it is and how it saves them time.

Full Disclousre, I work for Honda but other than that had nothing to do with the new Civic and these are just my personal observations. I'm not even sure the last gen Si is still available or not. You might have been looking at the regular new gen Civic, which just underwent a full model change last year (2016 model year). I've had a a 2 Door EX with the 1.5L turbo engine and 6MT for a few months and I've been really impressed with the car so far; beat my expectations from every perspective, ride quality, noise, performance and fuel economy. The next gen Si based on the new chassis and engine is supposed to be out sometime this year... maybe this month? Personally I'm planning to upgrade to the Si when my company lease flips over later this year and keeping it for a while. Even with the new Si not out yet, I'd highly suggest to go check out one of the normal Civics with the 1.5L turbo engine and manual trans; it's a really good combo. It's rated at 17xhp/17xtq, but feels like and dyno results are showing it's under-rated. At the very least it will give you an idea if you want to wait for the Si or not, if waiting is an option. It get's 30 more hp and 20 more TQs, a real mechanical LSD and adaptive dampers over the normal version. I think at the entry price point for the Si, probably around $25k, you won't get those last 2 in any of the hot hatch/'econo' boxes (you can't get the Si in the Hatch). I can't really deeply comment on how the Civic or Si version would compare to the FOST or FIST, as I haven't driven those cars. I imagine the ride quality and driveability is better with some 'sacrifice' to performance; maybe not to the FIST but probably to the FOST. The better ride quailty and driveability is just kind of what happens when you compare a new model car to one that's a few years old. My understanding is that the FOST has a pretty big turbo and has some lag so that's trade off for the increased absolute performance which is just a personal taste or concept of what you want the car to do kind of thing. Edit: Just saw the buget, you can probably get a new version of the car I have for about that much MSRP is $22k. Unfortunately they just came out with the 1.5L Turbo & MT combo this year so you won't find probably any used, and the Si with the new chassis & turbo engine is not even out yet.

Great, it says I'm getting more junk mail today! Super excited about that.

I'm a huge proponent of PT/exercise. I'm sure there is plenty it can't fix and I don't know anything about that issue, but it's the first route I would try if it was feasible. I would suggest to go see Corey Southers at http://www.rehabilitationredefined.com/ and see what he would suggest. He did my knee recover after my ACL surgery, he was with a chain at the time, but has his own place now. He's a good guy and a straight shooter, if there is some other path for you that will work better he will send you in that direction.

Everyone telling this poor guy who just spent $21k on a car that it's just an X are a bunch of out of touch assholes.

I would have sworn I saw the first car driving into Menards on Morse around 6:30 when I was driving out. But, I think it was a scat pack Charger, the same blue and looking like it had just been through a really good detail/paint correction. I didn't get a full look as I was paying more attention to other traffic, so maybe it was him and my visual memory from the glimpse I got of it was off. That color on that car cleaned up looked really good!

To reiterate from above, and unless it's changed since I looked into it a year or two ago this is how it works. You have a net meter and are charged all fees (generation+transmission+fees) for your net usage per day, or credited per day for your net production (generation only). Of course that's totaled and billed on a monthly basis, like you said above, just like everyone else. There are some issues if you produce more for the year than you use, but I'm not sure what happens at that point. Maybe this is what he was referencing. At least AEP looks at your last year of usage and want's your system sized at most to cover 80~90% of your usage for the year so that you'll be unlikely to run into that problem. Additionally, you can get money for carbon credits if you have a 'total production' meter installed. The house I went and toured said they broke above even for the year, basically covering that other 10% by selling their carbon credits.

The only reason to disconnect if you are already connected is if your some conspiracy freak nut job who wants to lose money. It might make senes if you are not already connected, are really far from the lines and it would be prohibitively expensive to connect. In that case, yes, it's BS if they charge you to not connect. In Ohio last time I looked at it, you get the generation fee back for every piece of energy you put back into the grid. The net charge/credit was calculated on a daily basis; so you can use in the evening and produce during the day and hopefully break even for that day. This isn't true in every state. I think in some states you get the wholesale amount for any net output per day or maybe not even per day, maybe real time. If it's real time and you are in a state with peak metering, it could be a bad deal to feed back in during the day and consume at night. It may/b] start to make sense to have some battery storage. Basically, the cost of the batter per kwhr has to be LESS than your delta from your current electrical cost to what you would get back for anything you feed into the grid. Right now I think our Total electrical cost is something like 12~15c/kwhr. The tesla battery, if used to it's full extent, cost something like 15c/kwhr. Even if it made financial sense for the batter, it would still behoove you to be connected so you can feed back when you're battery is full, or draw when you have no sun/battery left. Again, unless you are some special kind of nut job that like to lose money.

Wow 3.0T Q5 Stock @ Crank = 268 (or 280) hp & 295/7 Ft-lbs of TQ APR Chip Only (91 octage) @ Crank = 425 hp/364 ft-lbs Just a hair under an SQ5 chipped, and more than a stock SQ5. And I can tell you, for a 'big' SUV, that car is a riot to drive even in stock form.

I'll second that you are cross shopping the 'wrong' cars; Q5~X3. I've spent a bit of time in a Q5 and they are very nice. The X3 was ok, but it felt like an 'older' model. It just generally felt like a comparison between a car that had just been refreshed (Q5) vs a car that was about to go through a full model change (X3). To top it off, I think on my most recent drive of these cars back to back it was a 2014 Q5 vs a 2017 X3. It seems like you can get the 3.0T (supercharged) engine in the Q5 at some point (it's available in 2017 models). The 2.0T is a good engine, the 3.0T in that car should be really nice. Though it has quite a bit less power than that engine in the S4 or SQ5 so I can't speak directly to how the performance feels. I don't know much about the X1, but it's easy to imagine at their price point they aren't going to be nearly as nice.