Trouble Maker

Presenting my first photo exhibition, The Many Faces of zeitgeist57 http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=744&pictureid=6100 http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=744&pictureid=6099 http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=744&pictureid=6098

I'm a little confused on the implied sequence of events Going to die anyways, so you pork a fat native american, you die, then life insurance goes to your widow. Or You pork fat native american, your wife kills you, then life insurance goes to your widow.

A few of the pieces on http://www.parts-express.com would fit your needs http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?searchFilter=&srchExt=CAT&perPage=100&sortBy=3&layout=LIST&page=1&srchPrice=&srchCat=756&srchMfg=&srchPromo=&srchAttr=

I didn't know people still bought stand alone GPS units.

FIFY :gabe:

Lol, they quote numbers for the Genesis Sedan R and have a picture of the Coupe.

I'll be there with my favorite red cup drink. :masturboy: http://www.beveragewarehouse.com/images/products/1829.jpg

Shit, forgot, going to Avengers at 10. Going with my friend that lives near there, so maybe we will come out there after.

Why do all of these sedan Imprezas keep poping up tempting me to get a non-ideal car (I need a wagon). :fuuuu: Clean looking car, good luck with the sale.

We have a similar chunk of money and were tired of seeing it lose money versus inflation sitting in a traditional bank savings account. So we went and saw an investment guy and he pointed us towards mutual funds. Keep in mind that, AFAIK, that's where they make the most money so that's part of it. We've still been very happy with his advice and how are funds have done. Granted, we got them when everything in that sector was down (Oct 11'). These funds ARE NOT guaranteed, so I wouldn't do this if it's your only savings. The upside is that over the long run, they should make a lot more than a CD or savings, even with conservative funds. Another rub is the funds are stuck for a year or you take a 1% hit. For us, these were long term savings so that was a non-issue. They've also made so much more than a CD or savings that we'd still come out ahead in the unlikely event we needed to pull them out before the 1 year mark. Some napkin type calcs, and I think we've made about 9-10% since we put this money in there. That's with 75% in conservative funds and 25% in moderate funds, nothing crazy. Fund symbols Conservative: PBDCX Moderate: PFNCX Our investment guy is with AXA if you are interested. Another option is some of the 'online banks'. We have some short term savings in ING. ING and Ally are at about 0.8% right now. Probably much better than you can do in traditional banks savings, especially at that monetary amount. Damn near what it sounds like banks are doing for CD's and your money will be 100% liquid.

So the room is roughly 16x30x8? That's 3840 cu ft room, which is big! Even though that back protion is not 'part' of the listening space, it is still filled with air that will need to be moved, especially on the sub end. http://www.axiomaudio.com/howtochoosespeakers.html Axiom audio has a fun little tool, where they suggest the speaker size for your room and listening styles. They are calling anything over 2500 cu ft. a large room and will pair some of their biggest speakers and subs with it. Think floor standers with multiple and bigger drivers and subs with 350-500 watts, but of course you can run through it to get a better idea. I would talk with the pros wherever you are shopping and tell them your room size. They should be able to tell you what you need. Keep in mind, I'm not a pro and just dabble in this arena, but I would definitely want you to have some bigger speakers in a room that size, IF they fit within what you are willing/able to spend. On the surrounds, Is there any way you could mount speakers on the side walls or down from the ceiling. If that makes sense with the way your room is laid out, which I obviously don't know the details of. Something like the the Paradigm Dipoles will mount flush on the walls off to the sides of your listening position. http://www.paradigm.com/components/com_mtree/img/listings/o/1230.jpg Or bookshelf, like the ones you suggested for the fronts mounted behind you down from the ceiling. Or off to your sides mounted down from the ceiling or out from the walls. http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTX-S-V2uM_hCGqGUjaYNsF3zQInh8nDKbUoibJ6XTjWypJAAjl8_OqSI53 Again, money no object, with that size room and with the available space behind the listening position, I would want to go 7.1. Then you put 2 speakers out to the sides and 2 speakers behind. Again, this is just a conversation and it may be for the sake of conversation, to make sure you are happy with what you are getting. You'll still be happy with the 5.1 setup you suggested if that's what you can or are willing to afford.

I also really like that you can order just about any length so your not stuck with 3ft, 6ft or 9/10ft and usually have a bunch of extra cable to deal with.

Seems like a good setup, but I have a few questions to make sure you are getting what you like Have you actually listened to the speakers? What kind of speakers people like can be highly opinionated and what I like isn't necessarily going to be what you like. What size room? Dimensions? That setup will probably be good in most rooms unless you are trying to get reference/theater level sound. The good thing is, you can upgrade the mains and sub later if you want it to be louder. Speaking of the size of the mains. I would like them to go a little lower, since they only go down to 86hz. The general rule is to try to cut-off your mains no higher than 80hz. Everything that's cutoff from the mains will go to the sub, and above 80hz you can start to localize/pinpoint the sound source. Having said that, I have towers that don't go super low and my cutoffs are set at 100hz and I don't notice it. Receiver should (probably) be good for what you want to do, I really like that price point and it's got most of the options I like to see. Something to keep in mind is that new receivers will be released within the next few months that will be 'better'. But since this receiver is near the end of it's cycle it should be less expensive now, and when the new one is released it will be closer to the MSRP. A nice comparison in case you want to cross shop anymore. http://www.audioholics.com/buying-guides/how-to-shop/2011-600-a-v-receiver-comparison-guide Dependent on the size of the room, I would like to see a bigger sub too. But that one should be fine unless you have a huge room and/or want to listen at reference levels. What's the price of the sub if you don't mind me asking? Why not the Monitor Sub8/10/12 that paradigm suggest to pair with your front stage? The only reason I ask, is that unless you are getting a 5.1 package deal, you can probably get more bang for you buck from one of the online sub shops. Again, having said that, I have about the same size sub and it does fine. Granted, my living room is smaller at only about 10x14x8 and I'm in a townhouse so I can't really crank it up. The only reason I went with the sub was, like I mentioned earlier, it was in a package deal with a 5.1 setup so it was pretty much 'free'. http://www.hsuresearch.com/ http://svsound.com/ http://emotiva.com/ I really like the specs on the Emotiva subs for the money. A post listing budget (sub $300 subs) http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1364182 Why the in ceilings? I'm not a big fan as they will always be a compromise. I can't really speak to the TV much as I haven't looked at them lately. AFAIK Sony makes some very nice TV's so it should be good. I got a Samsung a few years ago, but if I were going to look now I would definitely check out some of the nicer Vizio's. From everything I'm reading they offer an excellent picture for a good price. Cables... if I were worried about price I'm going Monoprice. But I always spend a few extra bucks and go with http://www.bluejeanscable.com/ They also have another division, a little more expensive, http://www.tartancable.com/ To say that I really like this company is an understatement. They are a (relatively) small US based company which uses (some, where reasonable) US sourced components, in a field where everyone else is big and selling 100% Chinese made goods. They make very good products, and in spite of that and being based in they US with US sourced components are very reasonable priced. They also told Monster Cable to kindly Fuck Off when Monster tried to sue them, like they do every other company in existence where they think they can get away with it. http://www.bluejeanscable.com/legal/mcp/index.htm They will always get my money and suggestion to others. That setup should make you very happy, just some food for though. Maybe it's just me, but I have a tendency to over analyze my purchase so I make sure I'm getting what I want.

A good (I thought) explanation of the basics and how the intertwine. I know this is probably old hat to some of you. Even though I had a rough idea, for a beginner like me it was nice to see some specifics pinned down.

Of course it means something, but it's simply 1 indicator out of 100 of how a car will handle, overall big picture type of thing rather than 1 test. It reflects mostly a cars ability to transition from 1 direction to another without being upset.

http://static.fjcdn.com/pictures/the+adventures+of+spooderman+pt.+II.+i+don+t+even_ad0125_3546233.jpg

And when the Honda Fit came out it was faster through the slalom than a Vette. I bet that means a Honda Fit is faster and handles better than a Vette. :dumb:

I did a canoe, run, bike tri last year (4 mi, 5 mi, 17mi). I've always been interested in a 'real' tri, but had never taken the time to get my swimming endurance up to be able to do one. As soon as I can get into a pool, I'm getting in one. Then when I can get on the bike, I will do that. Then when I can run, I will add that in. All building up to a sprint distance tri later in the year. Hopefully in late summer early fall but that really depends on how my recovery goes.

I'm a 90 year old man sitting on his porch scaring off kids trapped in a 31 year old body.

Look at me, I'm so hardcore I can run through mud and stuff, I'm totally not a cream puff like the rest of society. This activity sets me apart, I'm definitely a unique snowflake.:dumb: He asked about a simple race, not some fad race or workout. You might as well have suggested him to go do cross-fit.

I've also done the race for the cure over the last few years. Sadly I can't run it this year since I had ACL surgery a 11 days ago. I will be there cheering for anyone running or walking. It is extremely packed, expect to run/walk the first half due to morons walking with the running group. I've only done a few other races, they don't really interest me too much. They can be nice for setting goals though. Just get some running in befor and you should be fine. No need to "train" too much for a 5k.

That I did not know, but my overall point still stands even if that car cost 60k

The bigger news is that it will be able to hit 200mph out of the box. It's probably the cheapest price point, in relatively dollars and maybe even real dollars, that's every happened. To give everyone a comparision the first production car to do that was the Ferarri F40. "The car debuted with a factory suggested retail price of approximately US$400,000, although some buyers were reported to have paid as much as US$1.6 million." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrari_F40 $400k in 1987 money is something like $700k in todays money. That's 13 times as much as this car. Maybe even the cheapest 200mph car ever, including into the future? http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012/04/2013-shelby-gt500-662-horsepower-200-mph-why/

You need to make a budget and stick to it. I like to use excell to lay things out, but maybe that's just me. Living expenses = Rent/Mortage, utilities, food (groceries) etc = $a** Car = Payment, insurance, gas = $b** Fun money = $c *** Savings = $d *** Remain = credit card payments = $e Take Home = a+b+c+d+e **While these are fixed expenses, you can slowly whittle these down. It can take years to get where you want, so every little bit can help. I've personally paid off a car, student loans, and now we've got a nice cushion, some money for a car, a vacation savings and a very nice chunk for a down payment on a house. But this has taken about the last 4 years to do. So if you can make your rent less next year, then move that part of your budget to something else, it will have a measurable impact on your long term finances. If you can spend $150 less/month in these areas, lets say cutting cable and going to internet only ($50/month) and reduced rent (%100/month), that's an extra $1800/year to go towards something else (credit card debt or savings), or $7.2k over a 5 year term. *** Fun money + Savings should be low FOR NOW since you NEED to pay off credit card debt. You should not completely cut either of these out, unless you are in a really bad place financially. It doesn't sound like it's that bad yet. You can just sit in your house. And having some small (automatic) savings now will get you into the habbit. Then when you can pay of your CC debt, you can just transfer that chunk over to savings to work on other things. The next thing to do after you pay off credit card debt is to save some kind of buffer. The general rule of thumb is 6 months of expenses. This will be in case shit hits the fan again, like it did now, then you won't have to use credit cards again. Then you can start saving for big items you want, vacations, car parts, even cars and houses. Do all of your savings (and an account for paying of CC dept) automatically. If you get paid every Friday, have $x go into those accounts every Friday. It's really nice to put the hard work to get to that point and be able to pay for things in cash and not have a care about paying off credit card dept. Caveat: This is just what I've figured out works for me, but it's probably the common advice you will get in this situation. Figure out some kind of system that works for you and stick to it. If you just go into it blindly, it will happen much slower than if you sit down and make a plan.

They said it was from a man-hole cover not being in place? Here is the whole video http://www.autoblog.com/2012/04/29/watch-a-manhole-cover-send-a-land-rover-airborne-in-russia/ IN SOVIET RUSSIA, POT HOLES YOU!