Mallard

I didn't know you still knew how to post. But yes, I agree, someone local would be best. Hopefully Jesse's uncle knows someone good in the area or else I'll start cold calling places.

I'm looking for a company that can make soft mold and casting some pieces for me. I know some people on this board do fabrication and thought I'd try here first. If anyone has the capability please PM me. Thanks.

For those of you that have never been to Woodward for the dream cruise, get in your car and drive to Detroit this weekend. The actual day of the cruise is on Sat, but people are already sitting on the side of the road and there are quite a few cars out. On Sat you'll see anything you could possibly want. Everyone should do it at least once.

I travel a lot for work, but only fly occasionally. I use the Holiday Inn rewards program and so far it's been pretty decent. Eli - PM me some of your other tricks. I'll be flying a lot this coming fall-winter and I'm always looking for better way to scam more hotel points.

I was there Cool event.

Adequate? No. To reach that level of competiton you have to be a good driver, end of story. She didn't make it because she's a girl, she made it because the can run with the best of them. Hell, it was years ago (1999? 2000?) when she beat Tommy Kendall in a spec race (Long Beach Celeb/Pro Race) and she's only gotten better since. Girl or not, she deservers credit for reaching the level of competiton she's at today.

The diaphram spring does look rather low and fairly close to the compensation spring in the pic that was posted. The paint marks on the clutch show that it's not forward adjusted, but it's as-shipped. There probably isn't anything "wrong" but you have to remember that he's using a clutch-disc-flywheel package that was not designed together. (You are using an LS7 flywheel and clutch (pressure plate) with an LS2 disc, right?) The thickness of the LS2 disc may be different then the LS7, which would cause the diaphram spring to appear low. (low finger height) I have no way of looking that up since I don't work there anymore. Any other questions for me should be in by morning. Tomorrow I leave for LA (X-games) and there's no guarantee I'll have internet access again until Mon.

She was running at the front of a group of ~9 cars for quite a few laps. By the end of the race she was running well, but needed to be in a pack, whereas Helio was fast by himself. I'd be pissed too if my car broke down with 2 to go after running well. It was funny though to see her throw a fit when she got out of the car. She did say the crew didn't know anything about the car and they had no telemetry (which is true), but she also said they had great pit stops and kept her in the fight. I was sitting on the front straight in front of the Penske pits.

That would make an awesome motor for a go-kart!

Ok, if the F-body guys are doing it with no problems you should be fine. The only difference then is the weight of your truck, but if it was holding up well before the clutch forward adjusted then you're probably fine.

SAC is Self-Adjusting Clutch. It will adjust depending on the thickness of the disc, or if on a different flywheel the critical measurement would be the distance between the flywheel friction surface and the pressure plate, minus the compressed disc thickness. You would want that to be what the stock LS6 package would be in order to aviod adjustment of the clutch. Have a lot of people done the 6 speed with the same FW and Clutch package that you're using?

I don't think you need an LS2 or LS7 clutch yet. How much hp/torque are you pushing? If you're at or under the stock LS6 power rating I wouldn't worry about it. Plus the LS2 has a dual mass flywheel and you probably wouldn't want to swap the clutch by itself. With any SAC I'd swap the clutch and FW together. The blue spots will fell slightly lower, like a small pit. If it's excessive it might be bad...if it's not a lot you're probably fine.

That thing's so slow I'd throw it through the window.

Yes, the info you just posted is correct and almost exactly waht I told you to do with the combination of my last two posts Looking at the pics your clutch is definitely forward adjusted. Basically it compensated for a worn disc even though yours isn't and you're getting a reduced clamp load. p.s. The disc looks fine. As long as there's plenty of material above the rivets put it back in.

Yeah, you're right. With the tranny back in you won't be able to get to the springs. Not sure if you'll be able to turn it back yourself. Your only option for turning it back is probably to bolt the cluthc/disc/FW back together and press in the clutch with a hydrolic press. (Use an old throw-out bearing or something to simulte the bearing in order to make even contact with all the fingers) It's either that or take the clutch back to where you got it and tell them it's forward adjusted and you want a new one. They probably won't have a clue what you're talking about though. A dealer might know since these have been used in a lot of trucks and all LS1/LS2/LS6 cars, but no guarantees.

Nooooo, you shouldn't have to do that as long as the FW and PP surfaces aren't pitted or warped (which they look fine). The clutch you have is a SAC (Self-Adjusting Clutch). The three springs you see (circled in red) are connected to an adjuster ring inside the clutch. As the disc wears and becomes thinner the adjuster ring will rotate, which changes the height of the pressure plate in relation to the FW. This has the effect of retaining close to the new pedal feel through the life of the disc (plus a few other benefits). If your clutch forward adjusts pre-maturely you will end of with an even shittier feeling pedal and low clamp load, i.e. a slipping clutch. What you can try to do is put this clutch set back in, attach the throwout bearing, and have a buddy put a screwdriver (or some tool that fits) where I have pointed in yellow. It would probably be better if you used a screwdriver in 2 of the three slots so that you're lot putting all the load on one. Press the pedal so that the diaphragm spring (fingers) are compressing. As the clutch is being pushed in push the screwdrivers in the direction so compress to small springs I have circled in red. When it's compressed to a certain point it will turn back very ealsily. Don't pull on the screwdrivers extremely hard so that you don't break anything. When you're able to turn it back, hold it there and let the clutch out. Pump the pedal a few times and it will adjust to the current disc thickness. Now, my disclaimer...I have only done this outside of the car on a test stand with a special tool instead of screwdrivers, but screwdrivers will work. I don't know, however, if your stock release bearing will compress the clutch enough for you to turn the clutch back. You can give it a shot and find out. It's free. (but my consultation costs food and beer ) http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h92/mallard1055/170715326.jpg

Well everything looks normal to me in the pics. There could always be something that I can't see that could be causing low clampload. Inspect the inside of the clutch the best you can to see it anything is broken, namely the copper ring that sits inside the diphragm spring, or the retainer ring that adjusts with the springs you see through the top of the cover. Sometimes these clutches forward adjust so you may find some luck turning it back and allowing it to readjust for the current disc thickness. If you don't nkow what I'm talking about let me know and I'll go in depth.

On the fingers I see normal wear, although what's with the one on the top of the picture? Is that just rust that has discolored that area of the finger or is there a gouge there? The pressure plate does appear to have gotten hot, but nothing out of the ordinary for most warrenty parts I've seen. The hot spots almost exactly 120 degrees from eath other is also fairly normal from returned parts I've seen. I've seen much worse pressure plates. I am, however, worried about how forward adjusted your clutch is. Why do you think it's broken? Was it slipping? Pedal feel like shit? How worn is the disc? Is the friction material in good shape and all black in color?

That's what about 4 years of reading http://www.fiero.nl got me.

Nice car. I was into Fieros for quite a while. I was looking for one, but decided against it for the time being. It would be cool to do a 3.4DOHC or a 3.8 S/C since those seem to be the most cost effective swaps. (Well besides the caddy 4.9, but that's a torque monster that's a little short on HP for me.) Welcome.

That's because it is a Lotus Elise with a slight re-styling and an electric powertrain. Lotus is even going to assemble them for Tesla.

You must have been near the railroad tracks...they always sit there... (either that or you were between Kenny and Bethel. That's a fun spot too...I've gone a little quick through there once or twice) I'd fight it and try to get a plea bargain. What's your record like?

As seen by the Germans : http://www.chillyboo.com/media/image001.gif As seen by the French : http://www.chillyboo.com/media/image002.gif As seen by the Italians : http://www.chillyboo.com/media/image003.gif As seen by the Americans : http://www.chillyboo.com/media/image004.gif As reported by the press : http://www.chillyboo.com/media/image005.gif

SpaceGhost - Yeah, I was sweating my ass off. I had to get it done though...and now it look like it's going to rain. Coty - There is a little excessive orange peel on the indented area right behind the fender 'vents,' but other then that I'd say it's pretty good.

After spending most of the afternoon claying, washing, applying, buffing...I think it turned out well. There is minimal streaking, although I found some places that need a little more work in the night sky. With the sun on it it's hard to see anything but a reflection They're big so I'll link them. One Two Three Four