hpfiend

I say 03-04 cobra if you can fit or 350Z- edit oh yeah evo is pretty sweet too but again looks like a small car. The 350z is not as tight inside as it looks as a buddy of mine in gradschool had one and he was a big dude- 6'4 I think and probably high 200s he was an ex army-ranger/college football player and he fit in in just fine. My father in law is 6'4 and brother in law are 6'7 and they fit in his c6... same brother-in-law tried to sit in my foxbody coupe and it was a joke so hopefully the seat rails have been modified in the 03 cobra as they are built on the same platform as the fox.

curious

from my experience the simpler you keep nitrous the better. If you don't have the mentality for it then go with a different power adder. I put it on my LT1 firebird because it was cheap and when off 100% driveable. I started out with a 60 hp dry shot activated only with a wot throttle switch- it worked great- then the more I thought/worried about it, I added a fp safety switch, then went about hiding the whole setup, then added a jacobs nitrous mastermind (under the pass seat), MSD ignition box, jetted up to 100 whp, extra fuel pump, shifter mounted button, pressure gauge, bottle heater, blanket, colder plugs etc... it rarely worked at that point, was a pain to diagnose, and nitrous was no longer cheap for me. Sort of a pain really, you have to keep track of its level which is difficult without taking the bottle out and weighing it, can't leave the bottle open or it will leak, and if you don't heat it properly it wont hit right at half a bottle its not easy either. I went with h/c/i on my next car and then a supercharger on top and on the vette its blower or nothing.... well I haven't tried turbos yet.

nice... has the ford GT depreciated a lot? That eaton sounds good.

really? I have looked for a long time and never found one- where did you find the one for 300 bucks? What year?

search project c4orce by corvette fever magazine or vette mag.. they did a whole write up on it recently and supposedly the parts are going to be sold as a kit to easily lsx c4s.

fwiw there is no such thing as a cheap bike- they always cost about 2x their displacement no matter how old and @%#@ they are. The good side of this is that if you pony up for one and don't total it you will likely get most of your money back.

I had eaton 31 spline LSD, mosers, TA girdle, FRPP gears in my coupe well- the rearend did make a "binding" noise/feel in parking maneuvers but was very stout... fwiw my dad's c6 did the exact same thing and they put a revised fluid in it at the dealership under some tsb and it silenced it. FWIW I think the cobra diff is made by eaton.

not.

We looked at these when also looking at about every other 4 door "luxury/performance" sedans on the market- I thought they were very very overpriced for a cramped interior (mainly rear passenger leg room, peaky engine- from idle to 2400 it was decent after that quite doggish, cheap interior, spongy brakes, and lots of body roll. We tried to take a look at an R model and the sales guy told us they took it to auction just the other day as it had too many problems... we ended up with an 08 acura rl... drove accord v6, subaru 3.6 and 2.5 legacy, ford fusion sport v6, acura tl, volvo s60, damn there were more can't remember them now but of those and the other cars we drove the volvo was by far the worst.

hey maybe its a fuel issue instead of air... what about a sticking injector(s)/tune issue with that super duty fuel system filling a cylinder with fuel and it running superlean when it does its rev tricks? when u heard it idling fine and before it went to ips was it also late winter early spring?

have you seen the tb butterfly? Maybe somebody drilled a honking big hole in it to "help" with idle issues and somehow the turbo/bov/wastegate/ is forcing a @#%@ ton of air in there... btw a faulty tps should have set a code, my old 5.0 did when it had a crazy surging rpm issue- have you checked it for codes? I sold my obd1 ford scan tool to a guy on here but they are pretty cheap... IIRC the iac can add air reading tps input so it could allow more air to raise the rpm but I don't know if it is enough air for 5000rpm... maybe with a turbo pushing it it could... you can also get the codes with an LED, a resistor and some alligator clips IIRC 19 means all is ok for some reason If you want my honest opinion I would check all of the mechanical things you can first and then have Don LaSota and Rob (RL) if you can get him away from his snapon truck ;-) to take a look at the tune (if it is SCT)... it was money well spent by me! My car after adding the blower ran like absolute @%%@ and they did some brilliant tuning work combined with great mechanical advice ... check your MAF voltage at idle that was one of the things that was off on mine.... mine had a bad MAF ground we think and a lower intake manifold vacuum leak combined with an IAC adjuster I had put on (sold by ford btw so it is very common for the 5.0 to have surge and idle issues, a non-factory chinese oversize TB, too small of an airfilter, no blowoff valve on a restrictive intake system, etc... when they finally got it squared away on all but the coldest days it ran better than when it was bone stock when I bought it (and even then not that bad)- they told me they would take a look and adjust tune if necessary on a really cold day (we tuned it in the summer) for free but I sold the car before we got around to it... their website is really informative as well- lasotaracing.com I think... fwiw I had a pretty lopey cam, moderate heads, supercharger, a soldered lightning truck MAF, and big injectors and pump so it was no easy feat- it had mild issues before but with the boost they were magnified...

Looked for the tech thread and couldn't find it... Anyone check the torque of the lower intake manifold bolts? Could be a vacuum leak there- disconnect the tps (should put it in closed loop IIRC) and spray some carb cleaner. Also check the chassis grounds- especially the MAF sensor ground. I want this but I am in about the same boat as you- I hardly drive my fun car at all anymore- well I didn't drive it that much to begin with as I bought it a few weeks before we found out were pregnant with number one- and I already have 3 cars and a 2 car garage.

Exactly what I was going to say...

the guy that won the drag competitoin in the 2009 grassroots motorsports challenge did it with a '60's sbc v8 swapped bug- I think it ran low 10s and he built it "supposedly" for 2009.00 or less.

I had one of these on my formula- I thought it was pretty cool- It could have been my imagination but I thought it leaked if I didn't open and shut it a few times. I saved it all these years to put on something else... it was louder so it felt faster but I doubt I gained anything with it... they are illegal according to the dmv btw. Lots of guys complain about the motors failing due to heat and the gears stripping out. I'd put them on my c5 if I was positive they wouldn't leak as there is nothing more annoying than that sound.

btw what does ITT mean?

hopefully somewhere as a staging ground between trails and MIR

I wonder if they put a 28 oz flywheel on instead of a 50 or vice versa... FWIW I loved my old 5.0 coupe and miss it to this day. I sold it to buy the z06 as I didn't have garage space/driveway for 4 cars- the z06 is better no doubt but I miss messing with it and it sounded better imho but it was Fing loud though and I tried all sorts of mufflers and couldn't quiet it down. I sold this car: for 8300.00 IIRC and it took 9 months to do it so I don't think it was worth much more sadly... most guys wanted to pay 5-6500. Here is some more info for price comparison... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2697057/1990-ford-mustang Notes that may be helpful: They had forged crank and pistons from the factory up until 1993. That car is going to drone like a sonofaB@#% without tailpipes- the tailpipes are not cheap, possibly can't fit those tires on it with them, and the passenger side hanger is about 50.00 alone. See if it still has the quad shocks installed flipped. You do need them even though 80% of the internet will tell you don't but themselves have wheel hop issues they can't understand Check the rear deck lid and front floor pans for rust Check the condition of the torque boxes (rear lower control arm mounts) See what sort of clutch cable and quadrant/adjuster setup is on the car- don't worry if the clutch is stiff as hell that can be fixed and is very common as most people don't know what they are doing in that department and if it has a non adj factory cable or Max motorsports with a quality firewall adjuster and aluminum quadrant that is a good sign- also if the ashtray works chances are the guy is serious about it. look at the idle air control motor if its shiny as new and there is a spacer in there save for a tune... get ready for cold temp idle issues (hanging/surging/etc) he will likely have it warmed up for you "out of consideration" hehe I would not pay more than 5 for that car and probably not more than 4-4500 considering what is out there for less. HTH

This is a solid wood (oak) dovetail drawer, bedroom set with a tall dresser, long dresser, mirror, headboard, and bedside table. They are in very good condition and are only for sale as my wife wants to try something different. Made by Bassett 275.00 OBO http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj162/hpfiend/DSCN0275-1.jpg http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj162/hpfiend/DSCN0273.jpg http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj162/hpfiend/DSCN0280.jpg http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj162/hpfiend/DSCN0279-1.jpg http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj162/hpfiend/DSCN0278-1.jpg http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj162/hpfiend/DSCN0277-1.jpg

yes microwave is sold as well as couches.. bedroom set and violins still available!

Violins, bedroom set and couch still available until next week- if interested please contact me.

Hey all- not sure how this got off topic- I love my vette and hopefully will never sell it- it is too well engineered to mess with- I just miss wrenching on cars and have spoken with matt numerous times on building an extreme straight line car as I know I will never piece together something to all around perform as well as my Z- I have been at this long enough to understand the compromises involved and to see what Matt has done with his S10 is quite elegant. I do have inclinations towards domestic as they are much cheaper to make fast with twice the cylinders and sometimes 3 times the displacement it is a no brainer. A computer tune for our old RSX-S would have cost more than half of a supercharger for my 5.0 or almost as much as the aluminum trickflow h/c/i setup I put on it. That said I do have an open mind and have gathered a lot of valuable information in this thread.

Oh I almost forgot the honda guys- who knows civics, integra, rsx? Which body styles/years are the most desireable for a project?

I use a 40.00 one from walmart on my bike that looks a lot like that. I am not some crazy biker though so I dont stress it or the bike very much. I have a cannondale I bought used so I figure in the rare chance I damage the rim I can get another one and still be money ahead over a 1000 dollar trainer or whatever they want in the bike stores...