hpfiend

yes agreed iceman- If you are seriously interested- please pm me with the following A)your columbus racing name B)full real name C)email address D)contact # E)age (drivers license may be required) F)male/female G)location preference H)self-subbing is acceptable YES/NO I)How many substitutes you think would be suitable for either a 7 or 11 person team? That should do it....

If we can get a team going this way I think it would be nice to carry indoors- if we go for the 11 man team with subs we may need to split into 2... if not I am down with indoors as well- I used to play year round when I was young and crazy

nice! I did not expect this much interest, how exciting... I was thinking it would be a player managed team rather than a formal coach/player deal? IE: On my HS indoor and college intramural team we subbed ourselves and had pre-game/half time strategy discussions if necessary and that usually works out pretty good unless you are really shy and are afraid to ask people if they are in need of a rest... thoughts? What do you think of number of subs? Do you think 2 is adequate to cover for injuries/absences but allow for maximal playing time? It sounds as if miller is the only one ready to run around like a maniac-

that makes 8... one more for 9 person team at soccer first... 4 more for both options... we are getting close! I think we all have similar expectations--- a little cardio exercise and fun hopefully no injuries. I think we would win the award for the soccer team with the most horsepower. edit there is 9... 1 female 8 males.

The next owner of your car will thank you for your dutiful service.

Hell if I had a Ferrari F40 I would still do the maintenance/improvements- but- I am just now realizing how inferior some of the parts are at advance auto/autozone... I am starting to return my biz to NAPA and factory whenever possible... Props to that guy- he may actually know something about the car he drives. On castrol I think its a generation thing- my dad swears by it and even quaker state even though I told him all the pennsylvania oil is gone with its special properties. He bought a case of it the other day and some random stranger told him it was the worst oil ever made on his way out the door haha Our generation swears by mobil 1 and valvoline- likely the same old !@$!. And if you change your oil less than 7K miles it doesn't matter anyhow what you use brand, standard or synthetic. Someone that will truly get the benefit from synthetic other than a race team likely is only changing his oil every 10-12K miles as he doesnt want to mess with it (and really doesn't have to) and he is likely to have more problems with his car than the 1% increase in hp is going to make up for due to the fact he doesnt like working on it... I change mine with valvoline dino oil every 2500-3000 because I dont want to lose my blower bearings but otherwise that's serious overkill.

soccer first plays at their facilities in dublin according to this schedule. Men's Open OPEN 11 Sat. Afternoon Men's Open OPEN 7 Thursday Men's 30+ 1977 or before 11 Wednesday Men's 40+ 1967 or before 7 Sunday morning Women's Open OPEN 7 Monday Women's 25+ 1982 or before 7 Monday Women's 30+ 1977 or before 7 Monday Coed Open OPEN 11 Sat. AM+ Coed Open OPEN 7 Tuesday Coed 30+ 1977 or before 11 Sunday PM Coed 40+ 1967 or before 7 Friday oh we could play in the 7 person league-- fees are 575 for 9 (64.00 EA) or 650 for 13 (50.00 EA). registration due by july 23rd. http://www.soccerfirst.org/outdoor_leagues.html NCAA is all coed and plays on sunday afternoon/early evening at I believe somewhere in westerville... w/ 18+ 30+ 40+ as leagues 11 person teams and we need 56.00 EA from 13 people if I calculate correctly. Here is the website: http://northerncolumbusaa.tripod.com/id15.html We could play coed or mens. I like coed as people tend not to get as carried away and less injuries occur, but I could play mens as well... I am 28 FWIW- Any females interested? spouses/friends/girlfriends/cr members? My wife is not down, already asked... If this doesn't work we could easily get an indoor team together down the road.

Hey guys- After 4 years of driving my car I just realized the previous owner removed the front swaybar... Anyone got one laying around? Thanks, Andrew

ok that makes 5- for 11 needed with at least 1 or 2 subs... 12 or 13. 7 or 8 more.... anybody have the kohones to stand in front of 100mph balls and try to catch them for keeper?

hmm- air hammer works that good eh? What do you hammer on? I would assume you are talking about shell-less bushings andy that you greased up and pounded in with a rubber mallet? The bushings I have on the way are ford factory with shells? Thanks!

Anyone know of anyone that wants to sell/rent this tool? http://www.maximummotorsports.com/content/large_images/tools/MMT-1_LG.jpg

Not sure who this was directed to but if it was me, Thanks! I was thinking balance and blueprint of whatever engine comes with it with some qualityparts if not already in there- no aftermarket blocks or stroker kits or trick race machining.

I see your point- I never insinuated that- we are confusing our other conversation and this one- after some thought, I would keep my mustang and build up a dsm as a next project if it can be done this cheaply, I would never ditch a practically perfect somewhat rare coupe mustang for another car of the same year no matter how fast- I love this car. If I did ever liquidate the mustang I will either part it out or close my eyes and take the loss on it and get the 03-04 EVO 8 (from our convo, thanks) or 03-04 C5 Z06. I think the ideas are also overlapping as I bought my mustang 4 years ago to build a low 12 second daily driveable car as cheaply as possible and saw no more practical options at the time (def not any that sound as good ;-) )and when I go back and add things up it cost a lot more than I originally thought to build it properly- I did not know dsm's were capable of this and am intrigued. My reasoning in continuing this post is trying to define the car you end up with for a 5 grand 1G DSM? Will it need race gas? Will it need lightened flywheel/grabby clutch, how much factory driveability are you giving up to get there... Trying to visualize the end product. If I took peoples word without doing my own research and asking my own questions I doubt my projects would turn out as well as they usually do (at least in my perspective) I am sure someone could build an 11 second yugo for probably 3 grand but I wouldnt count on it being very reliable or nice to live with. I have been convinced the ET can be done for 5 grand I am just not convinced it can do it appropriately. No offense intended.

Discuss: This article claims you need all of this which adds to about 5,000 in addition to your DSM to run High 11s with the less than fun requirement of Race Gas, Stiff/Grabby Clutch, Laggy Turbo, Difficult to maintain speed (Lightened Flywheel), ETC.... My 5.0 Mustang runs this now with 93 octane, a factory clutch (King Cobra), factory driveability, and it could do it all day long with virtually no risk of drivetrain failure. (T5 possibly but I am easy on it and they are cheap and plentiful)- Low 11s are only a harder launch, pulley swap and retune away- maybe there really is no replacement for displacement? I never claimed mine was under 5 grand though- quoted from dsmtuners.com ------------------------------------------------------------ Stage 2: 350-400hp Once the basic upgrades have been done, it's time to start looking into larger turbos and intercoolers, as well as learning the basics of fuel tuning - as bolting on parts is only half the battle at this stage. A Stage 2 setup will cost you somewhere around $5000 for parts, assuming that you haven't performed any of the Stage 1 modifications. Again, you may be able to save money by finding used parts. A Stage 2 setup will raise power output on a 1G DSM to nearly 400hp (or more depending on the turbo upgrade and level of tuning). That can equal low 12's or possibly high 11 second 1/4 mile times on the track with 100+ octane fuel. Of course, that depends greatly on how well the car is tuned, the condition of the car, and driver skill level. Step 1: Logging Software Before you can safely begin making fuel adjustments, you'll need to know what's going on inside the engine. Logging software will give you this data and will help you decide what fuel delivery changes are needed, how much change is needed, and at what RPM point. Though datalogging is mainly for tuning, it's also a critical tool to prevent major engine damage as well. \Step 2: Warning Meters Along with a datalogging solution, you'll want some gauges to help monitor the engine. While dataloggers allow you to analyze data after doing some test runs, guages are easier to read while driving. An EGT (exhaust gas temperature) gauge and probe will allow you to monitor the exhaust temperature exiting the engine. Extremely high temps generally translate into a lean condition and can be catastrophic. You can also go with a Wideband O2 system that will allow you to monitor the air/fuel ration of your car while driving. This will tell you exactly how rich or how lean the car is running, allowing you to adjust the fuel curve accordingly. Step 3: Fuel Controller/Engine Management In order to control the flow of fuel of the larger injectors, you'll need some form of a fuel management system. The factory system simply cannot control the changes you've made/are going to make. There are a variety of ways you can go here. The most common route is a piggy-back style computer which still uses the factory MAS in combination with a reprogrammed EPROM chip that plugs into the factory ECU. The drawback to this is that some cars didn't come with an ECU that utilizes an EPROM, making an ECU swap necessary. Another option is a stand alone fuel system which completely replaces the MAS system altogether. Stand alone systems give you much greater tuning capability, but may require more knowledge of fuel tuning than the average weekend warrior may possess. Either route you choose will allow you to run larger-than-stock fuel injectors - which will be needed very soon. Step 4: Fuel Injector Upgrade To supply the amount of fuel needed for a larger turbo, the stock fuel injectors will need to be replaced with higher flowing units. The larger the turbo you plan on upgrading to, the larger the injectors you'll likely need. If swapping in a 16G turbo, you can get away with 550cc injectors. Most T3/T4 combos will require at least 650cc and up. Step 5: Front Mount Intercooler Kit The stock side mount intercooler will not be able to cool the amount of air flow needed to produce 400hp or more. Thus, it will need to be swapped out for a Front Mount Intercooler. This install is pretty involved, especially if you choose a kit that routes the piping around the sides of the radiator. Most kits require some trimming of the steel bumper and some dremeling of the plastic bumper cover. Most "street" kits will do for this stage. But if more than 400hp is desired, you might want to consider a "race" kit which will have a larger core for better cooling characteristics. Step 6: Turbo Upgrade At this point, the stock 14b turbo is running at it's max. In order to increase boost, a larger turbo is necessary. You'll need something larger than a 16G or 18G in order to achieve power levels above the 375hp mark. A Mitsubishi 20G, a Mitsu-Garrett hybrid, or a full Garrett setup will be needed for higher horsepower levels. Keep in mind that any non-Mitsu or non-Mitsu hybrid turbo (like a full Garrett) will require a special exhaust manifold, external wastegate and O2 sensor housing. This is the point where you'll have to decide what your car will be used for. The larger turbos are great for drag strip action, but not so great for road race and autocross use - something to keep in mind. Performance Clutch With more power on tap, the stock clutch probably won't last that long. It will start to slip, especially in the higher gears. This means it's time for a high performance clutch that can handle the increased horsepower. Lightened Flywheel To help your engine rev quicker, try a lightened flywheel. Most are stronger than stock, and can handle the abuse seen at the track. Shifter Mods If you have a 5-speed tranny, you'll notice that the shifting is likely less-than-desirable on the 90-94 cars. These transmissions tend to be notchy from the factory to begin with. The best solution short of a rebuild is to put in some good tranny fluid and replace the rubber bushings in the system with some metal bushings. This should help with grinding and missed shifts as well.

And those parts would be? DSMlink? Built bottom end? I would also like to meet some of you and check out this event at Norwalk on Aug 17....

nice notch but...- I call BS- I think he is just trying to get exposure to his other business... 400 hp and 500 ft-lbs it can't be a 5.0 unless he is using nitrous as the hp/torque ratio just doesn't seem right for 302 even with a truck cam. 3 seconds to 60 hah- maybe after a burnout with slicks- not with a 4 link on street tires. what kind of white face gauges are those? My notch makes ~ 435/435 for a similar hp/torque ratio but its not NA its blown and gets 15-17 mpg around town... You can tell its internal combustion as you can hear it crank and when he revs it up... it is rather quiet- maybe its turbocharged.

interesting-

I know thats why I said high 11s... .2-.3 = .4-.6 at the top... 12.3 - .4-.6 = 11.7-11.9. 800 hp and 20 psi on stock head gaskets, WOW is it a o-ringed design from the factory? ARP head bolts at least? Not really doubting- trying to learn.

The way I see it with 3200 lbs (assuming loaded with driver) you are going to need roughly 450 rwhp to go consistently low 11s. Example- my coupe 5.0 with a race weight with me in it of 3150 lbs runs low 12s with 365 rwhp- a more abusive driver or more practice might put this car at high 11s with a 1.6 60', sure lots of mustang guys get 1.4 60' but not in a trim that is driveable on the street. And that is with slicks. AWD will help get those 1.6s which we will use as argument sake as you suggest they can achieve that on street tires. What is a stock 1G DSM rated at? 150 allwhp? The stock bottom end/head gaskets has been overengineered by the facotry by 300%? How much boost are we talking with any of these?

thats my problem and why I avoid clubrsx as well even though our type S is a sweet car- they are more interested in if people think its a chick car or how to add neons than how to make them fast and there are 100 posers for every one that knows what he/she is actually talking about. Where are you guys? I will pm.

see edits above. Crank walk? IE positive pressure (boost) pushes crank out the bottom of the block or sideways and spins bearings?

so how is this going to be done? IE what type DSM obviously an awd turbo version to start? I am assuming having the machining done professionally with a quality home assembly, with better head gaskets, quality forged low comp pistons overbored, home built turbo manifolds or cut flange off existing manifold and weld new flange for bigger junkyard turbo with factory intercooler, some sort of adjustable wastegate/blowoff setup, and a laptop custom tune using some sort of efi hacking software? I would like to help if possible/learn all I can.... Low 12s, high 11s would be enough for me if reliable on street tires. Is this with a full weight DSM with full interior and air conditioning/stock radio that you can hear, and a suspension you can live with? What does a DSM weigh? Can the clutch handle all this extra power? and if it can can the halfshafts? Some guy wanted to trade me even for my fox coupe a 450 allwheelhp version of one of these and I told him I would pass as I had heard too many bad things about them.

well this is a different turn of events- never figured on starting a team- anyone else?

This I would like to see... 3 back to back runs at 3 track visits for a total of 9 runs at a frequency of 3 runs/month for 3 months with daily driving in between. I would assume this is on some sort of slick? Bobby? Are you on here? Cheap, Reliable, Fast. 11s for 5 grand including the price of the car is not going to be reliable. If they are I am buying one to add to my garage. How can we move this post to the lounge or passing lane entitled DSM 11s for 5 grand? reliable? or something along those lines.

I stand corrected. Thank you! My mistake. I still hear too many bad things about them to get one or recommend one.