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hpfiend

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Everything posted by hpfiend

  1. Prices lowered- If you want anything let me know! no reasonable offer will be refused- I need it out of my garage space to make room for my next car which I should have by the end of the week. Laters, Andrew
  2. Take him on that deal before he changes his mind! True I am biased but I considered building an FC/FD LS1 car as well and decided to go for it and get the vette, there is a lot to be said for a factory engineered low 12 second car. Ask around on V8rx7forum.com there is more than one person on there that got a Z and never looked back. Sam would really be the guy to ask as he has had both or is in the process of having both.
  3. You could make a 302 make 400 to the wheels but it would have a cam that wouldn't idle below 1500-2000 rpm, with the accompanying buck and surge bs, hog out some big valve heads for no low end torque, have to put all sorts of expensive and short lived valvetrain components to reliably support 7000-8000 rpm not to mention that a stock block couldn't handle it combined with some expensive custom improved rod length to stroke ratio lightweight internals and expensive trick machining. You would hate this car on the street but it would sound unreal and beat some @!$ on the dragstrip. As dave said a big block would do it more easily and with better driveability. F/I or nitrous is basically having your cake and eating it too without the hassles of an engine swap as you are artificially increasing the displacement. As everyone has said before there is no replacement for displacement no matter how you achieve it. More air=more power if the fuel system can support it. Lets see you get 400 to the wheels out of a 2 literish 4 banger without f/i and then drive it on the street. The S2000 is a 2.0 liter NA engine which is about as tweaked as you can get and be driveable with a factory engineered fuel injection system and tune ($$$$) and it gets around 204 to the wheels (half what you need) with no torque and accompanying relative bad mileage with stiff gearing to make up for it. Also this engine and pcm/efi technology was designed what 6-7 years ago and the 302 goes back to the 60s! I don't know why anyone would want a hp goal anyways- without the proper suspension and tire width you aren't going anywhere faster anyhow. I would shoot for a quarter mile ET and if you want to be ambitious do it on street tires like the factory.
  4. No offense but its really tough to tell anything from those pictures as they are out of focus and the flash is overpowering. It almost looks like there are two patterns on the coast side of the gear one low and towards the middle and one centered and towards the outside edge but I can't make out the drive side of the gear at all (straight side). Maybe you can put some dye on there so we can clearly see both sides of the gear and put a light down there so you dont need a flash? Or we could do it this way rather than staging a better photo. Does the coast (angled side) of the gear have a uniform pattern that is low and small or centered and big and where inside edge outside edge or center. And then do the same on the drive side. If there are indeed two patterns either the gears have been setup twice or you have something allowing movement which would make a lot of horrid sounds. Do you have loud exhaust?
  5. Not as much of an issue with a proper tune and keeping boost low- you don't need a lot in a lightweight fox and some good flowing parts.
  6. Turbo will cost a lot more but worth every penny... as twisted said b cam is not good for F/I stick with the stock cam and 1.7s or a custom grind. Nitrous is great for occasional track bursts, but absolutely blows for playing around on the street (read not racing) and not as cheap as people make it out to be- as twisted also said it costs a lot to setup properly but still less than turbo or blower (also done properly) Good nitrous setup will run you about 1-2 grand, blower about 2.5- 3 grand, and turbo about 4-4.5 grand if you dont make your own. If you are handy I say fab up your own jy setup and thats what I would do if I were to get another fox.. why not a centri blower with a mild h/c/i package which is what I did? a little cheaper but not as much power under the curve as the turbo setup but it will still own a small displacement wild NA package as far as driveability and overall performance You are going to need a custom tune either way and some other supporting parts unless you go carb which again if track only do it- so much money is saved but resale suffers but your basically F'd either way you look at it once you start modifying it and start talking resale. Also keep in mind the limits of the stock ford block, even forged, is 400 rwhp and 6000 rpm... so you can have a much more reliable setup by shifting early and making boost early rather than winding the piss out of a NA/nitorus setup as nitrous loves rpm too.
  7. lol thanks paul. I don't care which car is which or which broke, as far as I can tell both cars in the miniature pic are f-bods and both have worthless rear-ends unless they have ponied up for 9" or 12 bolts. And for the record, I meant no personal attack- I merely said it was ironic. I apologize, I should have kept it on topic and omitted my worthless post. Can we get back to being adult and pertaining to building and enjoying fast cars?
  8. +100 and my thoughts exactly... dont go broke turning a sows ear into a silk purse. You have accomplished a lot with it and you should be proud- enjoy it for what it is. Then if you still want to get bigger results for your dollar and want to run 10s-12s consistently and not break get something like a fox body or turbo buick if you can afford a 12 bolt or 9" a 93-02 fourth-gen f-body is an option as well with a better transmission/suspension than a mustang but that is the most expensive option. A newer mustang will be more enjoyable on the street than a fox but they weigh more, cost more and a modular is a LOT harder to work on. Anything faster than 10s is going to cost a fortune and the platform becomes less of an issue but it woudl still be cheaper in a fox, grand national, or f-body than a lot of other cars. Oh yeah if you want to get an f-body wait till the new one comes out and I suspect that the prices will tank on the older ones. The only reason I sold my fox is I was bored with drag racing- I drove that car daily for four years and beat the hell out of it and it was 10x more reliable than my f-body (but I never ponied up for the rear- I rebuilt it twice and those F@!#@T% plugs, plug wires and opticrap) This is not to create an f-body / mustang war. I had great experiences with both, and my sister's LS1 SS car, but the mustang was much less of a hassle for me to live with.
  9. haha the irony... says a guy with a signature of a broken rear!
  10. cool thanks- looking at a prospective car to purchase and it has god awful painted striping and lettering on it. 360 if I get it its yours to fix!
  11. how much are you going to drive the car on the street?
  12. Brake drag likely. Without feeling it it is hard to say but it should be tough to turn with the driveshaft hooked up, the axles in and the brakes wheels and tires on- thats a lot of inertia to fight. Remove wheels and drums and then try again. Does it make a rhythmic whirring/whoosing sound when you are driving? Is there any change in sound/clunking when you load and unload it? Also in case you didn't know its easier to count turns of the driveshaft compared to the wheel rather than drop the cover and count teeth. Have you checked your ignition timing for the soggy feeling?
  13. Hey all, Anyone know how tough it is to remove a pinstripe that has been painted on around the perimeter of the car? Thanks, Andrew
  14. With all the birth control talk- I assume you work for P&G in mason? I went to grad school at UC in molecular genetics and a few of my fellow students work there now. I bailed out of the gig completely and now work in real property management/project management. Welcome and Nice car. Nissan has had a nice run with the death of the f-body- I almost bought one before we ended up with our rsx-s after I totaled my '96 Formula and missed the torque which caused me to give it to my wife and get a 5.0 mustang which I built up and then got bored with and wanted the torque and handling so now I am after a vette... hows that for a run-on sentance. I personally like the sound of the 3.5
  15. Thanks space- that was "interesting"...
  16. Anyone have a link to this thread- seems like I missed a good one...
  17. since when is the corvette not american? There are very few cars in the world that can outhandle a corvette z06
  18. one more thing- The f-body is worlds ahead of the mustang 79-04 mustang in the handling department with its SLA front suspension, 3 link rear, and wide fender openings. The reason you see soo many competitive mustangs and camaros at hdpe events is that its a lot easier to drive at the limits when you are out 2-7K grand for a replacement vehicle to install everything onto. instead of 20-50K or higher. Take a guy where cost is no object in a better designed car and then you can compare cars to cars.
  19. A 79-04 mustang can be made to outhandle a viper or corvette zo6 but it is going to be the most unpleasant piece of SH@#% in the world to drive for any period of time off the racetrack and cost a lot more than the car is worth. Hell you could make a yugo own a z06 in about any competition you can imagine but you could have probably bought 3 z06's in the end. Reason being that it has a terrible front end design which features terrible steering inclination, terrible ackerman, not a true macpherson strut so higher than necessary spring rates are needed due to the distance from the strut to the spring, jacking which upsets weight balance, and I am just getting started. Not even close to a properly designed short/long arm front suspension with true macphersons. Switching k-members is just a band-aid. The rear quadrabind setup is actually worse as not only is it a solid axle but lateral and horizontal movement is only allowed a few degrees until it binds, therefore the factory put ridiculously soft bushings in the back to prevent this bind so it is not only a bad design but a sloppy design, virtually no antisquat has been designed into the rear so it will lift trying to power out of turns, put wide tires on it to fix this and remove the quad shocks and you will get wheelhop, even with improved lower control arms, try to outthink the factory and take off one control arm for a poor man's 3 link and that one upper control arm mount will rip out of the floorpan in a short while. oh yeah drop the lower control arm brackets to "engineer" some more antisquat in for more bite- hello roll steer. You say, mine is the cobra IRS setup so I dont have this problem- hah it is a VERY compromised design to fit within the 1979 platform design, while it is an improvement over the stock 4 link it is nowhere near a properly designed independent rear setup... There is a 1500 bushing kit from maximum motorsports that will make the IRS competitive but that compromises NVH which you dont have in a factory design. If it was so wonderful ford would not have abandoned the platform finally in 05 with a true macpherson design though still not short/long arm and a 3 link rear from the factory over IRS even in the shelby cobra. Oh yeah unless you have a fox coupe with a cage the chassis stiffness is nowhere near competitive unless you take it down and seam weld it/structural foam it. This is why I sold mine to get something to handle. In case anyone wants to know putting the cobra IRS in a fox coupe is very doable and if you can swing the max motorsports bushing kit and shell out for the griggs SLA conversion kit you can have your cake and eat it too until you try to sell it. Tuning would be a nightmare as well as it is such a unique setup with little experience base. My .10 cents on the matter. the 03-04 cobra is about all ford could do with the old platform which is impressive from what they had to deal with but its not going to compete with a SLA upper lower front suspension, non-compromised independent rear, and 50/50 weight distribution with a rearward mounted engine or rear transaxle.
  20. hmm they must have taken them down- when I went there there were signs everywhere--- and I asked them and they said they have armed security and that should be good enough. Yeah when they are 20 rows of cars away. whatever- I wont go there again.
  21. sorry to hear about your bad luck!
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