hpfiend

I thought that was going to be about stealing sports cars... bizarre.

and...... the upshot?

sorry guy- Get sn95 balljoints to replace... they are lower friction and bolt right in I believe.

Hey guys- Can you really burn out the rubber from the factory bushing and squeeze a new shell-less bushing in with a c-clamp? I have heard of people having to weld reinforcements across the control arm and put it in a hydraulic press... if it is this easy why would people go to this trouble? Also are moog rubber any good or should I go urethane from max motorsports? Thanks! Andrew

The reserve has been set significantly lower than it has been advertised here- Please bid what you think it is worth... I may lower the reserve further near the end of the auction.

Hey Nick, Didn't notice you had joined here... Welcome! I was going to buy your proform shiftlight off buckeyestangs and ended up finding a harlan elsewhere... Your car sounds quite nice... I think we have someone on here named I_poop_LS1 so you two should be quite the pair...

Ben, thanks! I got it figured out- my wife and I are signed up for the drivers school with the rsx-s!!!! No 5.0 this time might 4 banger power and torque steering fwd all the way Andrew

The wife and I signed up with our rsx-s- another day we will bring the mustang out... see you there!

nice work! it seems like he has all sorts of space for that turbo in there- what is he missing? I guess the different intake routing cleared that space- very clever arrangement- oh It could be the electric fan and no battery- custom alternator mount in place of power steering- I can't believe that radiator hose survives long like that.... Even the EGR spacer coolant lines look more manly than mine! Man- its amazing what people can do... heres mine for a reference to show how cramped a fox 5.0 FI setup can be in comparison- (I know nothing compared to you lt1/ls1 guys)... http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj162/hpfiend/engine.jpg

http://www.lingenfelter.com/store/c30.html They only had the 211/219 and 219/219 when I was in the scene but any of those should work nicely. Call them with your stall and other planned mods... I was going to go with the 219/219 - If I remember correctly the LT4 HOT is 218/228 but much less lift.

Hah be careful with this- my mustang has been piloted to a 14.0 as well in its current state... heck I picked up a full second just because I found out my tach was inaccurate after I added a shift light- Unless you are at the drag strip with the same driver the same day ET's/MPH/dynos/etc are not comparable and any outcome is possible.... on the street most times the winner comes down to who has the most blatant disregard for the laws, public safety, and their own lives. my .05 cents If you ever want to talk LT1s shoot me a pm- I am no expert but I lived and breathed them for 7 years until I totaled mine-

oh neat- so PAX takes the car factor out of it? IE a guy with a yugo can be classified as a better driver than a guy with a corvette z06? Has this been proven to be accurate? IE same drivers different cars? I found it on dlb but how do I register? Thanks!

uhoh I hope there is enough room for my wife and I- I didn't see this thread and was waiting for the online registration to show up... I emailed jbeerma1@columbus.rr.com just now.. Thanks! Andrew

hmm sounds like you guys had fun even with the rain- whats PAX? Is the guy with the FC RX7 on here? Any idea when does registration open for the drivers school?

ON EBAY

Dunno- Last time I posted a spotting I got flamed so I figured I better start in the kitchen... I couldn't resist the license plate so I had to introduce him to my mustang-

White Audi with a body kit? Laters, Andrew

Weekend Bump- Will post ebay listing number on Monday

hey I found a steeda triax for 90.00 on on the corral the other day and copied the link but forgot to post it here...

get a 0 or 00 tip for your oxyacetylene welder- a monkey and his balls can puddle with that on small stuff. If you can't find that get a henrob 2000/dillon torch... with the advantage that you can "cut like a plasma"- they are really neat- if I weren't getting a tig soon and didn't already have the 0 and 00 tips I would have one- I am tempted to get one just for the awesome cutting... I figured the guy demonstrating it was a pro and not realistic to an average guy so I asked to try it myself in front of a crowd at the ford show a few years ago- I told him I was a decent gas welder and he went for it- that alone is proof of the technology or he was a serious gambler- as if I burned through instantly or the welds didn't penetrate it looked bad for him and his customers... this was sheet metal about as thick as 2 or 3 playing cards... it went very smoothly, without that much distortion, and he even bent the welds I made in reverse to test them and it held- I think he sold a few right there on his gamble... the piece of metal was probably 1.5" max so not really the best distortion test but anyone that has done it knows you can't weld more than an inch consecutively anyhow I can't believe I still haven't bought one-damn I am going to price check those again- I guess because my 0 and 00 tips are almost as good and the gun is sort of large for confined spacing but I honestly could have wrote my name in this 1/8" steel piece he had with the cutting function... they claim it uses much less gas for welding and cutting, I would definitely believe the cutting but I dunno about gas compared to the 0 tips... that oxygen screams out of there with a standard cutting torch. I may be wrong but it can cut 1/4" steel I think--- hell for 3 or 400 bucks its a steal compared to a plasma.... I gotta go shake my piggy bank...

Rob, you aren't talking about the super sports compared to the race springs are you? I have been recommended the standard sports or race springs and DEFINITELY to stay away from the super sports.

Maybe the fork is bent? Did you try a new fork? I am surprised no dealers in columbus have another throwout bearing- what about aftermarket??- I am sure if you didn't marr it you could return it...

I'd say check all of your wires insulations for shorts first, especially in bends/areas close to metal parts. Also make sure you have a good clean ground connection- you weren't supposed to use a relay to control it were you? I don't know how many amps the light draws but its worth checking the instructions... if it is LED based it shouldn't be much.. I figured the circuit you put it on would blow if you overloaded it with a bad connection/too much draw but on multiple circuits it sounds like a short to the frame... The light could be defective and have an internal short... but again that would only effect the one circuit you tapped into unless you used multiple sources...

I have the fastest car in my neighborhood and this is definitely not a good thing- everyone loves the sound of an offroad h, lopey cam, blown 5.0 over morning cofee... someone buy it for my neighbors sake.... my mustang stock with a dead posi on street tires, 5spd, ran like 15.2

I hate this place.... lol