hpfiend

oops forgot to mention- the lt4 hot which is one of the mildest cam setups out there is really tough to get to idle with an auto with constant misfire codes as the 500-600 rpm idle is not a good match with the lope of the cam- Bump the idle to 800-1000 I hope you enjoy holding it back constantly... Also- with speed density its going to be tougher to cam period... When I had my LT1 car I was going to put the lingenfelter 211/219 cam with 1.6 rockers it has .525 lift and is very mild with limited driveability loss- you are going to get some driveability loss with any cam.... has a ever so slight lope... I actually think they used to make another grind for autos.. I would stick with as much lift as possible and as minimum duration with short overlap if you must cam it.

Dude- unless you enjoy the loss in low end, gas mileage, and bucking and surging around 1800-2200 rpm do not change the cam to a hot cam... Compared to the other cams out there the costs in driveability are minor but there will be a tradeoff- Why not put the 1.6 rockers, some good tires, a stall and some driving practice in it to break 12s you can add the chain and cam later.. btw if you put a cam and chain in without changing the optispark or waterpump you are a crazy mofo- as that engine is a B@#%#@% to work on- I wouldgo electric csi pump if I were you cha-ching- well its your money- I hope you like the look of the 5.0 tailights

With a good stall converter, retorquing your knock sensor, or better yet putting an lt4 knock module in (I think that applies to 93s as well), a cutout, 160-t-stat with fan switch, 1.6 roller rockers, and drag radials- you should easily be able to pull mid to high 12s without opening the engine- make sure you get some sfcs if you dont already have them I knew a guy with mods as yours in dayton with a speed density 93 with headers, 3.73s, and drag radials that ran 13.10s all day- all he had that you may not have is a good stall converter- and that was back in 96! 6 speed cars are more fun but in my experience they are rarely as fast in the quarter mile unless you have a really good driver.

Its been a while and they changed it abit along the way but basically a 1LE was a stripped down car with a fixed roof and no a/c. It may have had a heavy duty oil cooler as well- Also all 1LEs are 6 speeds- I missed that this car was an auto the first time--- I just got excited about the fixed roof- not a big fan of removable roof cars ESPECIALLY without SFCs. Though I hear that it is not a problem on the S2000 or vette. The LT1 cars at least had no power locks/windows/power seats etc- light weight platform to build a serious car.

how is the light pattern from those headlights? any fogging?

Andy call your friend in greenfield- he has a bunch-

ls1s too bad its not a 1LE or it would be an even nicer autox car.

Not sure about the sn95 5.0s but since the fox bodies switched from forged to hypereutenic in 93 I would bet they are hyper pistons run the best gas you can get. Make sure you pull some timing- put a set of colder plugs in it and I wouldn't go over 100 to the wheels- If stick shift a window switch is needed as well as a wot switch of some sort- the automatic tps switches are the most reliable as the microswitches can stick- also a fuel pressure safety switch, and some nice line filters. You are also going to want a thermostatic bottle heater, nitrous pressure gauge, a bottle blanket if stored in hatch, and a purge if you want any consistency at all... oh yeah plan on rebuilding the solenoids at least annually if not every six months for piece of mind and 40.00/bottle for a refill that will last you 3-5 passes in the quarter mile. Also- get ready to become addicted to it- speed shops love the nitrous junkies as the car feels so slow in comparison you are always on the button. - oh yeah start saving for stickier tires and then a new clutch. If you are going to want to use it on the street- which I don't recommend- you will probably need a remote bottle opener as well that are expensive and leak losing expensive nitrous- and just get ready to hover as traction is near impossible with any rear gear and street tires as the torque is not linear and unreal with nitrous. Don't want to rain on your parade but nitrous done correctly is not cheap or easy. I had a dry kit on my LT1 Formula and was not a big fan at all I even complicated things further with a jacobs nitrous mastermind because I was paranoid- From another forum tacky but fitting analogy- "nitrous is like a smoking hot chick with an std- you want to hit it but are afraid of the consquences". I am MUCH happier with my top end kit or the blower- maybe a tad more expensive in the beginning but so worth it.

Thanks guy! TTT

Sell your car, buy my car already done, and have lotsa money left over?? eh?

Thanks- I will check it out-

buy some tax free bonds they are up now- don't put it in your car- been there done that will probably do it again...

sn95brakes.com lots of people claim you can swap to 73mm front calipers or rear disc without changing the master cylinder and its absolute bs. The factory did it for a reason- this is why I still have my rear drums- and 70 mm fronts- I don't want to do that line lock setup again.

I've got a 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" drive craftsman ratchets-- looking for companion flange holding tool for 8.8

thats funny I know a guy that traded a Z06 for a honda element and absolutely loves it- no joke....

Yeah in my experience its better to be a seller than a buyer there--- they seem quite overpriced and a lot aren't aware of this or willing to negotiate- Usually though after a lot of walking and bs I find one guy that has a lot of good stuff and knows what it is worth and I will buy lots from him... Ex: I got a set of decent lx tailingts for 40.00 that is about what they go on ebay but you have to pay shipping... Most guys wants 60-75 I also used to go to cjponyparts to save on shipping as their prices are about the same at the show-- One year they had these awesome welded one-piece driveshaft loops for 20.00 and I passed- before my car got serious- then I needed one and they weren't there... my .03 cents.

Thanks guys- we will see if we can sell the wife on the idea..

Was thinking under a grand- salvage title wrecked and all--- Apparently there are a lot out there I just can't seem to find them...

hey all, Looking to convert my garage from its current one 110V outlet, a now working garage door opener with two 60 watt light bulbs as the only light for the entire garage, to a shop setup to be proud of... I swear I have to use a flashlight to find my %#@#@!% tools in my toolbox and that is when I put them where they are supposed to be. Problem is I have a 2 car- there is some space on either side of the door opening but I have a push mower, riding mower with an almost 6 foot deck, work bench, and two cars. not to mention two bikes hanging on the wall, three trash cans, and miscellaneous yard tools/materials like a bale of peat moss... What do I do with all this crap? There was a shed in the back but it had no roof and hardly any siding and the ground hogs dugs the "foundation" out. We tore it out to plant evergreen trees across the back to shield us from a proposed development. Build another tasteful shed? I am thinking about building a concrete pit with some sort of ramp setup... turf top- wife is not a big fan right now and I am worried about sealing it from rain as well- I guess a properly landscaped shed wouldn't be bad but our other was so unsightly my wife voiced her displeasure constantly... I have thought of putting a moderate sized air compressor up in the attic (ranch) and running hard lines into the garage so that a big tank doesn't take up floor space but dont want to shake the house when it cycles really ;-) If I pull both cars out it really is a decent space now but for all the lawn crap.

I know nothing about the car and it is out of state... My coupe 5.0 can be parted out for 10 grand. I am currently asking 12 for it. It is extremely fast and daily driveable and reliable. Having met my goals of low 12s (do not want to put a roll bar in it), and still being daily driveable I am bored with it, and am looking for something that handles better like a vette to try autox/road racing with. I am not interested in keeping a turbo buick of any sort as it would be a liability to me as I know nothing about them and I am pulling back from drag racing a bit... I was just asking what it would be worth so I can get some cash out of it for a vette. I will ask the guy for pictures- details- Thanks!

SWEET! I might just do this as an entrepreneurial efforton a nightly basis- scam the drunken and lonely- with nice scenery to boot- what a job.

Hey all, Someone has offered me a White 1987 Buick Regal T-type all stock with 87,000 original miles on it, supposedly has a factory "black-out" kit on it, and only needs some sort of bumper fill-ins on the front and rear. Paint is original and nice with few touch-ups and interior is grey and mint. He has offered me this car and 5,000 cash for my 90 blown, h/c/i 5.0 Coupe- anyone know what these cars are worth? I would only be interested in it to resell and use the cash+proceeds to put towards a vette... I am thinking fire-sale worth too- worst case scenario.... Thanks! Andrew

hey man at least you don't have to endure the waiting, bs phone calls and emails anymore... Did you do alright on it? Was it someone local?

Regardless if it is a bandwagon/imitation- who cares its a well thought out combination that has now been proven by lots of people.... Hell Sam if you do it for 10 grand or under you could make at least double your money and do it again- make sure you do A/C and PS though- that seems to be huge in the LS FD market. My dad and I put a 4.3L Vortec V6 out of a 95 Jimmy (~225 hp) in a 1977 Porsche 924 back in 1996 and that was state of the art then with headers built from scratch- that car was a royal pos that was so overpowered for the radiator/rearend/torque tube that it was a colossal waste of time and money- of course I was 16 and have learned a bit more about stuff in the last 12 years- Now they have kits that make an LS1 slide in there perfectly with the proper drivetrain (944 turbo) and actually nice power brakes... I would much rather build/have one of these cars- being a "pioneer" is not all its cracked up to be and I am humble enough to admit it. Besides imitation is the best form of flattery-

Price is negotiable.