zeitgeist57

FOLD DOWN WORK BENCHES...love it! :thumbup: Great video. Love a clean garage and the simplicity of that guy's passion.

LJ > $5000

http://www.autoblog.com/2013/01/25/curbtxt-lets-san-franciscans-communicate-via-license-plates/ Novel idea, but I'd imagine that just opens you up for spammy shit txts from random freaks. With the right controls in place it could work...

I appreciate the feedback, everyone. I'll be getting my work bonus in February so I'm looking for a toy...I'm pretty set on either a Fox-body Mustang GT convertible, or a 95-99 YJ/TJ Wrangler for some open-top driving.

Really? Jeeps suck that badly? I thought they would be more useful than a Mustang convertible...

Alright...the Blazer exercise with my wife last night (CONVERSATION ABOUT BUYING ONE...not what you sickos were thinking) made me realize that I'm definitely looking for a cheap open-top vehicle. Wranglers are still pricey for my cheap blood ($4k and up) but there are some bennies: EFI, very popular platform... Trying to stay realistically in the $2500-$5000 range: 1) As long as maintenance is done, should 125k+ miles worry me too much? 2) '95 YJ's had galvanized bodies, but older suspension and interior...stick with the TJ's only? ('97-'99) 3) I test-drove two Wranglers at Carmax...one was a 2.0L 4cyl with less than 50k miles and the other was a 4.0L with over 110k miles. The 4cyl was just as good around town, but holy cow did it lack any sort of passing power on the highway! So, I'll be sticking with the 6-cyl... Any input on decent used Wranglers, I'm all ears. As opposed to a newer Jeep, this will be a dedicated "toy" that won't take the place of a CTS-V and Cobra down the road...thanks!

Gov't money? Crackheads? Benjamin? THX OBAMA!!!1!1

He's got Rust Bullet or some sort of rust encapsulator that he used on the frame...for the love of the FSM, treat the surface rust and primer that bish! Put the grille and bumper back on and you'd probably get a little more for it!

Welp, I called him back...against my better judgement I left him a $1500-$1600 offer on his VM. He called me back immediately when I was on the other line but I couldn't pick up. I called him back a few minutes later: Me: "Hey! Did you listen to my VM?" Him: "Uh, yeah...but I want to listen to it again later." Me: "OK...just a lot to consider on your truck, you know?" Him: "Yeah, I guess. Well.....anyway..." Me: "OK, so...uh...just give me a call..." Him (interrupting) "Right...if I want to take your offer..." Me: "Uhhh....right" http://www.alexterry.co.uk/365/tshirt142.jpg

So I'm cheap and I have the wierdest jabroner for trucks these days. Coming up on the second year since I've had my Corvette (targa-top fun car), and now with a family I am jonesing for a convertible project to roll 3-4 people to C&C and elsewhere. Been looking at a few Fox-body mustangs, but the fullsize Blazer/Bronco option is intriguing, provided the truck's got a stick-shift. Friend of mine has a 1974 Blazer that he's been working on for the last 7 years. He originally picked it up from Cuyahoga Falls, outside of Cleveland. He's recently moved, and has 2 kids with another on the way. Engine - has less than 2000 miles on drivetrain 1984 Chevy 350 4bolt main, bored 0.030 over dipped and fluxed, w/ new plugs (documented) World SR Heads, 67cc, 1.5/1.94 Balanced Rotating Assembly professionally done w/documentation Holley 670CFM Str. Avenger 4brl Carb Holley Str. Dominator Intake Manifold Comp. Cam w/ Hydraulic Lifters (0.47lift) (280 series) Proform Roller Rockers (1.5ratio/3/8”) Proform 5/16 pushrods Cloyes timing chain and gears 180deg Hi-per thermo high-vol oil pump MSD Ignition HE-175 New 6.75" balancer All new Clevite bearings 4 Row Radiator Grade 8 bolts throughout Dress Kit All components listed and those not mentioned (belts, hoses, starter, etc) are all new Remaining Drive Train SM465, 4 speed trans, new seals bearings and inspected NP205 Transfer Case, new seals and inspected 3:73 gears, 12 bolt all new seals and Timken bearings throughout drive train new U-joints new clutch Others new Painless wiring harness new fuel and brake lines rebuilt steering box new hubs new rear brake assembly new tie-rods engine compartment and frame painted Body all new panels for front clip, needs aligned (bumper, grille not shown but 100% complete body) rear panels with little rust - no rust through - and front floor pans need replaced. Replacement panels included front window frame has dent new body mounts http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=809&pictureid=6905 http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=809&pictureid=6904 http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=809&pictureid=6903 http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=809&pictureid=6902 Truck has always been garaged and he's looking to get cash...he had it before getting married, so you could imagine what his wife thinks now:eek: He's asking $2500, but let's say I can buy it for $1800 for the fact that the remaining bodywork will be sizeable. However, over the last few years he's got more than $6k in receipts for the parts/work he's done, and having come off fixing up Cleetus I wouldn't mind some MIG-n-Bondo prepwork again, since the drivetrain is solid. What would you do, CR?

Did the cow died?

P/N or model number of old-skool MSD?

Tipp City and Huber Heights are the nicer areas, as far as I've heard...

Where's the Stingray emblem on the fender? Also, that looks like a firechicken logo on the rear valence. JUS'SAYIN....

Sooo....I'm a little late to the party to sh!t on the Opti some more? ex-'95 Corvette LT1 owner...you F-body/Impala owners can sukkmahbawls with your 4ft of clearance between the engine and radiator...I even did a DelTeq coil-pack conversion to squeeze as much life out of my Opti as I could. Talk about throwing bad technology at a problem started by bad tech in the first place...

Talk to Dawson Personnel...they have employment contracts for temp- or temp-to-hire workers at BMW and other companies in that area...

http://i738.photobucket.com/albums/xx27/lexiingram/I%20stole%20gifs%20from%20lauren/Community/tumblr_lgy8t0iKa41qcumrmo1_500.gif

http://i.imgur.com/JlG48Sf.gif

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Friend of mine has a EuroVan Westfalia...doods tried to steal his flip-screen headunit (I think it's a Jensen)...yanked it halfway out of the dash and saw the rat's nest wiring and gave up. This was a few weeks ago, and ever since then the van loses enough battery to not be able to start up next morning without a jump. We disconnected the stereo's wiring harness to see if the headunit is damaged and draining the battery...just got a text that it wasn't it. Any other ideas how to trace a battery drain?

Mother has the exact same van and had the same problem right around your mileage as well...

PUT BRICK ON PEDAL, BOUNCED ENGINE OFF VALVE FLOAT FOR A WHILE...ENGINE NOW SMOKING AND KNOCKING BUT TACH STILL AT 1K WTF??? Not sure about spinning it to redline? there is no adjustable redline needle knob...7k red, 8k cutoff on tach face...

I have it set on "6" out of 4, 6, and 8... EDIT: To be clear, the engine is a 300ci Ford inline-6.

I have an old SunTach that Dave Sigman gave me over 10years ago...and it was used then! Temp wired it into Cleetus...+ and - to battery and green lead to (-)coil. Tach is excited, but limits at 1000rpms despite truck obviously exceeding that. Any ideas? I'd like to keep using this tach without having to buy a new one. Thanks!

bah-rump.