hydrualic cam?
its easy if you can have the valve cover off with the engine idleing. thats right off. with the motor idleing engine warm back the rocker arm nut off till the valve just starts to tick or rattle a little bit then slowly(or the car will stall) tighten the nut till the tick stops. after the ticking just stops tighten the nut 1(one) full turn a quarter of a turn at a time. I can show you if you have an inside place to work and don't mind doing it at night. if its a solid lifter cam you need a feeler guage but its still not too dificult lemme know
shit I saw you out tonite and forgot to ask if you still needed it. I can take it to work tomorow if you need it.I'm at advance on east main in reynoldsburg.
how big is it. I have a kiln you might be able to use if you can get the coating stuff. depends on the temp it has to be cooked at. lemme know some measurements and I'll let you know if it will fit.
damn! I could do all that for half the estimated price and still make good money. if you can hold off till its a little warmer I'll show you how to do it. don't let your car intimidate you. its not rocket science just nuts and bolts. get a service book. its easy after that if you have acces to tools. you've got maybe 200-250 dollars in parts there if you buy all gm stuff the rest is that 50 dollar an hour dealership labor rate.
got the shocks by chance a guy who works at a suspension place came by the store he helped me pick out the right length thanks for your help everyone who posted
I've got the bumpstops cut down. Jegs has to order the shocks for my truck and I get a good discount on KYB stuff. I'm just trying to figure out how much shorter so I can order the correct shock. the belltech kit was ok but alot of the parts were mislabled and I had to buy some hardware cause some of the stuff they sent was wrong. it also took a torch to get the old hangers off according to belltech they remove easily with a chisel and a cut off tool. it was just irritating cause I had to borrow a torch and run back and forth to the store a bunch. back on topic I lowered the rear 4 inches do I get shocks 4 inches shorter? if anyone knows please call me at work tonite 3/11/01 at 861-2894 and let me know if not post a message here. I gotta do something its kinda scary to go much of 50mph right now. I'll order belltech shocks if I have too but I'd rather have KYB stuff its worked really well for me before.
well I got my truck all lowered this weekend and it feels a little bouncy in the back. lowereing compressed the stock shocks a bunch. I guess I 'm wondering if I need a shorter shock or just a stiffer one to deal with the increased spring rate.
any ideas appreciated.
stp makes a product called water remover comes in a yellow pint bottle availiable for sure at advance and most likely zone napa and pepboys too if that doesn't help the only thing to do is get everything setup and check the timing marks to see if they line up.
rule of thumb we follow on oil pressure is 10psi for every 1000 rpm(minimum engine hot) drops in oil pressure at higher rpm can be caused by lifters too as the increased pressure can cause them to bleed off. I'm not sure what kind of motor your working on. does the oil pump mount down in the pan like a chevy or a chrysler or in the timing cover like a buick/ford if its a pan mount cavitation is possible if you didn't get the new pump primed good they need to be dipped into a bucket full of clean oil and spun till all the air comes out. the cover mounted ones are a little easier you can pack them with grease or vaseline and they prime up in the car. HTH
I didn't say the timing belt /chain fell off but it could have jumped or slipped throwing the timing off. just because an ignition part has low miles dosn't make it good. make sure the wires aren't arcing and that the cap isn't carbon tracked (black stuff inside) look for burn marks on the rotor. try adding some water remover to your gas. if its almost starting but not quite it could be timing buts its more than likely just bad gas do you remeber where you filled up last?
you have an engine that will cran with a no start right?
does it catch at all like it wants to startbut doesn't?
you could have a bad cap /rotor/wires or a slipped timing chain/belt how long has it been scince the car had a tune up could be bad gas too I would look at that stuff first you could also hav ea bad neutral saftey switch alot of cars will crank but not start if it goes out.
HTH
I havn't done it yet I'm waiting on thew stuff to ship from belltech. aligment will be done right after I'm done. I looked at KYB monotubes today are they any good? thanks for all the info
I just wasn't sure cause the listing for shocks for the rt is the same as the sport wich is basically what I have minus all the power windows and locks the shocks on the truck are pretty new it only has 26,000 miles on it
I got a drop kit for my truck 2" front 4" rear (Dakota R/T ride height) they guy at jegs was trying to sell me shocks too I didn't buy um. do I need to go back and get the shocks or will the stock ones work ok? I'm planning on an alignment when I'm done anything else I need to do. TIA