Dave1647545494

I got a new motor for my town car but it comes without a cam in it this is a heavy car so I'm looking for something to give it a little more grunt down low heres what Ive been looking at any ideas for guys? I'm leaning towards the motorsport cam but if there is a truck cam or something I missed that'll work better let me know. Thanks Ford motorsport e303 cam- Duration: 220°/220° @ .050'' Lift: .498''/.498'' lunati 638-00061LK Adv. Duration: 292°/292° Gross Lift: .512''/.512'' RPM Range: 2000-6000 638-00064LK Adv. Duration: 284°/284° Gross Lift: .488''/.488'' RPM Range: 1500-5500 edelbrock Part # Description 2122 Performer-Plus Camshaft Kit; Ford 289-302; Hydraulic; For Off-Idle To 5500 RPM; Valve Lift Intake .448; Exhaust .472; 3722 Performer-Plus Camshaft Kit; Ford 5L Roller; Hydraulic; For Off-Idle To 5500 RPM; Valve Lift Intake .498; Exhaust .498; crower 15915 BAJA BEAST / PERFORMANCE LEVEL 2 - Exhibits broad stump pulling power and torque. RPM Power Range: 1200 to 3800 / Redline: 5200 264 duration 458lift POWER COMPU-PRO / PERFORMANCE LEVEL 2 - Perfect combination of power and mileage. Provides excellent low end and mid-range power with extended rpm’s for spirited offroad use. RPM Power Range: 1500 to 4000 / Redline: 5500 plus. 250HDP- 258 dur 437 lift 260HDP- 266 dur 464 lift

just a helpfull hint for anyone disc or drum rear brakes. always set your parking brake when the car is stopped. doesn't matter if its stick shift or auto. this keeps the rear brakes adjusted and stops things like caliper lock up and broken brake drum springs. just make it a habit everytime you park set the brake. I get most of my rear brake jobs on disc cars cause the calipers lock up, burn the pads off, and warp the rotors. thats an expensive brake job even if you do it yourself. just an FYI HTH

I can install just about anything except for gears, but I got a guy that can do those too.

if you want to do it right get the head hot tanked and blasted at a machine shop. then have it checked for cracks/warpage for that extra saftey measure

depends on how you drive what fuel system you use etc. the oil in my skylark turns black in about 1000 miles but it gets contaminated by fuel except when its at wide open throttle I personally change oil every 2500 miles or so

buy a different car with awd it'll be cheaper

change your transmission filter and fluid. if you have problems with fuel pulling away from the sump you either have to reengineer your stock one, get a fuel cell, or just keep it at least half full of gas. I've had the fuel pull away from buick sump at 1/4 tank and lower on hard launches my solution was to just run 1/2 tank instead of a 1/4 at the track hth

fuel pump and regulator were the same price 74.99plus tax

pressure regulator was stuck open

you may want to reset your valve lash the old school way. engine running back the rocker nut off slowly till the vlave starts to tick slowly tighten till it just stops then tighten one full turn a quarter of a turn at a time (or the car will stall) works every time.

what kind of module? the stocker will get you yo about where your miss is now, an aftermarket one may go 5500. I solved the problem by using an msd box to replace the module. hth

still working on the 94 grand am. have to test pressure at the filter(before the regulator) cause theres no fiting on the fuel rail. it spikes to 70psi then settles to 60psi if I let it sit half an hour or so it'll bleed down to 20psi is this normal or is the pump shot thanks

this means WAR j/k

that I can check tomorow morning. thanks

just pull the starter off and bring it in to advance auto we have a bench tester in the store I can also show you the neutral saftey switch if the starter is good so you know what to look for.

working on my sisters 94 pontiac grand am 2.3 SOHC no check engine light I have to push the accelerator to the floor to start the car it runs choppy at idle and bogs when you push the gas. I'm lost any ideas? the whole top of the motor is pretty much new or rebuilt.

GP Sorenson PN NS32 retails for $23.00 plus tax at advance auto I'm working tomorow from 6-10 in reynoldsburg we can check the starter for you too if you bring it in.

you have all power accesories on and a no start correct? replace the starter its toast. if that batteries more than 2 years old get it checked out too but if it won't jumpstart the starter has got to be hosed.

could be a hole in the radiator or a hose what color is the smoke. what does it smell like. if its an auto the tranny cooler lines are in there too could have a leaky one.

if you don't have headers with 02 holes they are probably the wrong ones it takes a special shape header to fit right install difficulty is harder than an LS1 car but easier than an LT1 car you can buy a bolt on Y pipe fo rthat application to makes the install easier.

try a pipe wrench

orange is phosphate free(non corosive to aluminum) green is for older cars (copper brass radiators and iron blocks). Use the orange it works better

I'm going to be picking up a 91 lincoln t/c in a few days the 302 in it has a rod knocking. my question is will any old 289/302/351w drop right in or is there a particular long/short block I should look for thanks

aren't yuo running an SBC in your car? for the price of a good port job you can buy some really nice aftermarket heads that will outflow porter stockers right out of the box. my .02

how do you determine where you need to be as far as airflow goes. carb? displacement? total horsepower level? rpm range? cam profile? compression? I'm trying to blueprint something up here for a late summer/fall project. thanks