Dave1647545494

theres a company called torque tech that makes 2 1/2 and 3inch exhuast systems for 64-73 a-body's they make the pipes(all mandrel bent) and you get your choice of mufflers http://www.torquetechexh.com/

I think the egr valve got stuck open on ya

no problem like I said its been chillin in the garage forever just drop it off when you have time.

this is an LS1 based motor ,but all iron correct. just wondering if all the bolt on stuff for f-body's and corvettes will work on it.

nitrous alone on a stock motor will not get you even close to 10's I've got a 100 shot on my truck v6 and other misc mods and low 14's is the best it'll do. you get into reliability problems with stock bottom ends when you go over 20hp per cylinder. if decide to spray it get a wet kit its more forgiving on the engine if you mess up and spray at too low of an rpm or miss a shift.

what kind of car? will it support high levels of horsepower? this will probably be fall/winter project but I'm going to try to collect all the parts this summer.

anybody use this? I got a chance to pick one up at a decent price. might retrofit the buick with injection if it works good

if its rings you have to pull the motor the rod and piston will only come out through the bottom if its valve seals you can do them in the car with an air hold and a spring compressor. do a leak down test first leak down will show you bad ring seal. hth

cool desktop dyno shows a pretty impressive gain with a 150shot from 3000-6500 with my particular cam

thanx its kind of a cobbled togehter kit I have a powershot plate (no jets yet) nx solenoids and lines I don't want to run a whole lot its got stocker bottom end in it so its prolly cast pistons can they take a 150 shot and live?

I'm using my nitrous plate as a carb spacer right now but scince its on the car I'm thinking of letting it taste some juice. I've got an 850q-jet on a 430buick with a 120gph holley fuel pump is this pump big enough to support both? and what do you set the fuel pressure at for the nitrous side? its set at about 8psi with a return line for the carb I'm sure it takes a seperate regulator for the nitrous side. also how much timing retard do you run is it like so many deegres per hp? any help welcomed thanks

try this http://www.synair.com/products/pak/

did he do this with a stock computer? and how did the ECU react to the change? if my car will run fine switched over to a return style system, i may go that route. it'll save some headaches when i get serious with the power... smile.gif [/quote yes bone stock motor and computer just put a return style system on it cause the fuel pump and the sending unit wouldn't fit in the tank of the plymouth.

most warm no starts on those are the control module in the distributor. I can test it free at advance auto for you.

I'm not sure on the fords. but dodge uses the returnless style system on the magnum truck engines. my friend went to a return style with an aeromotive fuel pump and reg when he swapped it into a 51 plymouth helps tuning alot to be able to turn the pressure up and down.

http://wsx.net/ere/ get the phone number off the site ask for brian when you call

yes I do first 100 bucks takes it.

no problem if its all dissasembled I'd get it dipped and painted too. I got dippped painted cam bearings and freeze plugs done at napa for just under 100 bucks on my 455

do you have the motor tore all the way down already? you can get cam bearings done at napa for about 20 bucks plus the bearings.

take the pads out and look at them many OE pads like AC DELCO wich is what I'm assuming in your case are sqaure edged. you need to either A champer the leading and trailing edge of the pad or B buy a set from somewhere that carries pads that come that way. the dealer is not always the greatest place to have your car serviced I've had problems with chrysler or ask anthony about what the dealer did to his firebird. Bendix makes a pad called quietstop they are garunteed not to make noise but they also make alot of dust. also with the way rotors are anymore turning them is going to srew you in the long run cause there so thin to begin with. I would buy raybestos or bendix and do the work yourself then you'll know its right

scince its a 4 wheel drive and not a race car I would sugest 4 wheel parts they have a service center in the back ask for John he does good work.

NHRA requires that the trunk be sealed if you put the battery there if you can't do that then the box has to be metal(aluminum is ok) you also have to have a kill switch mounted outside the car in the rear in a location thats easy to reach by track officials on the starting line. kind of a pain in the ass. also for the distance you are moving the battery away from the starter 4 gauge is prolly not big enough wire. I'd run two gauge minimum or 00 welding cable (cheaper than battery cable and it works better) HTH

I've been 130plus on radial ta's for extended periods without problems.

Napa in reynoldsburg is closer to you ask for marvin he does excellent work.

I dunno too much about rotaries but running a 4 cycle motor like a 2 cycle is going to foul the shit out of your spark plugs. it would be like when you acidently poor the weedwacker/chainsaw gas in your lawnmower it runs all day but when you go out to mow again that shit is haed to start. the idea you have wil work but I wouldn't do it for longer than you need to fix your oiling system properly. my.02