fush

Do you have a picture of the dyno plot or anything? Sounds like its kind of lean to me. If youre peaking at 24psi then you arent there for long at all. The way the n75 works it allows a big spike and then it levels off to a set pressure and you will see even more boost bleed off on the way to redline. The ecu in that car is smart enough to lean the car back out even with the 4bar fpr in there. If you unplug your front o2 sensor you may see better results but you will throw a CEL. -jeff

Decent numbers. Are you really running 24 psi on the pea shooter though? If so thats nuts. Got a picture of the plot? I would be interested in seeing it. -jeff

What are you looking to spend on a custom setup or what has been quoted to you? If you show me what other people were quoting or the setup they designed I can try to beat their pricing, or I can come up with something if you want. -jeff

You were talking about a rebuilt turbo up top I just assumed maybe you would want to buy another stock one for cheaper than the rebuild would cost. -jeff

Its k03 sport off of a beetle motor. Same turbo. What time frame are you looking at, I don't want to pull this turbo off until the cold starts to set in and I can't drive the car anyway.

I am running the factory turbo at 18psi with stand alone right now and I can tell you it does make a bit of a difference but if you plan to make power you need to upgrade. As soon as I pull off my factory turbo to slap the new one on I can sell it to you it has like 1400 miles on it. -jeff

What about it do you want to be "custom"? You going to have a tubular manifold made or what. Honestly with the car you have you either buy an apr stage 3, you buy something from atp and fuck with trying to get their shit software to work, or you buy atp gear and buy a stand alone. If you want something that will work and you won't have problems with you might as well get the apr. If you have the cash to spend and the time to try to get your car running right then custom is cool. -jeff

What are you trying to have done? If its a bigger turbo you're after let me know and I can show you a project car. smile.gif

I've heard more than enough bad experiences about people going there that if I needed to go in for service that would be about the last place I choose to go. One of my friends works there and I buy parts from there occassionally but for service I would go with ecs or maybe motorkars if you want to go somewhere local. -jeff [ 03. August 2003, 12:02 AM: Message edited by: fush ]

Just because someone races their audi doesnt mean they know a lot about it. Ask Chip what happens what putting different size tires on an audi will do to your quattro setup.

ecs tuning in akron. www.ecstuning.com real good guys and they should be able to help you out. -jeff

What are you looking to do? There are quite a few options. What kind of mileage do you have on your car? 1) Chip (APR, GIAC, Upsolute, Wetterauer, Revo) Should make you a few ponies ~20-25 and up your torque quite a bit. 2) Turbo back exhaust - Free's things up and it will sound pretty mean when you're done. 3) MBC - Together with the chip and a vag com and some messing you can squeeze a couple extra psi out of the little pea shooter err I mean turbo. 4) Frount Mount - Toss a big front mount on your setup and get rid of the dinky side mount intercooler. 5) Turbo upgrade. You can go with a newer k03 sport off of a 2001+ car or a k04 upgrade. Both of these options aren't too great though because for the price you pay you aren't going to see much gain. If you do the turbo upgrade I would either check out the atp stage II with the gt28 or do a custom setup with a disco potato. smile.gif If you need any help let me know and I would be glad to answer any questions or lend a hand wrenching. -jeff

You can but I would keep an eye on them and make sure they stay tight. If you have problems try a set of studs and copper nuts. They work great.

Try atp or turn2. They sell pieces. If not pull off the old cat ram a broom handle down inside of it and knock out the honey comb inside. That should take care of the clogged problem. -jeff

30# 310cc is what he wrote the chip for and what the maf is calibrated for. I would think he would be able to adjust his fueling values easy by percentages if you wanted something custom. -jeff

Jefenes3 is the guy on vortex burning the chips. He seems to have the setup down. He is running his chip @ 3bar of fuel pressure with the 3.5" maf housing and no intercooler at like 8psi. Thats the route I would go if you're looking at less than 300hp. t3/t4 or maybe a t04b of some sort. Hopefully the first manifold I am trying to get made is done soon. Once that happens I think I can sell a manifold and downpipe for as much as just the cast atp manifold costs. That should save you a fair amount of cash right there. -jeff

Cool. Are you guys running the vafc hack or something else to trim the big injectors?

Bill at Schimmel Performance sells a setup which is basically plug and play for the vr6 uses all the stock sensors coil pack etc etc for 2100. It can be had cheaper but he has all the info for me I need to get it setup and will provide maps for my application as well as tuning support. I feel okay paying a bit more to get the extra support from someone who has been using the system on my application for years. http://www.schimmelperformance.com The autronic priced out to be a bit more when I was looking into it. It requires a reluctor interface to convert the 60-2 trigger signal to something the ecu can read and also requires a dis box of some sort to run my coils. The guys were fairly cool and gave me all the help I needed but the software seemed complicated compared to the dta setup. Also looked at getting SDS but by the time I get all the options etc it put me in the same range as the dta and autronic. I've been hearing good things about microtech recently as well and its quite a bit less than everything else. Hopefully someone will actually get it installed before I make my final decision because I don't want to over spend. -jeff

I've looked at them as well. Their software is a nightmare imho however. They seem to have all their ducks in a row and a system that is sweet but I don't want to have to hire someone to show me how to use their software. smile.gif

Yeah you need the larger maf housing to support the 30# injectors he coded the ecu for. Here is one of the systems I am considering http://www.dtafast.co.uk -jeff

ATP writes their own ecu code which isn't great, and the eip setup isn't great either. Basically drops timing and dumps gas and is dependant on lots of fuel pressure to make up the difference. There is a guy on vwvortex who is writing chips which seem to work but he only has one cookie cutter design that he is selling right now and its not in the range that I'm looking to go to.

Nobody offers anything worth a shit for the stock vr6 ecu except for maybe the matrix giac chip. They wont sell that unless you buy their complete setup though which is quite a bit more than I planned to spend initally. There are other alternatives but by the time you spend time fiddling with fmus chips piggy back units etc etc etc why not do it right the first time? -jeff

The SDS is really simple to install and tune I agree. Some small things that suck. The magnets that are used as a crank trigger are a pain and you have to custom make a mount to get them to work. They don't offer true low impedence injector drivers just an inline resistance similar to the "honda resistor box trick". And there is only the possibility of using one map/its a pain in the ass at first to find your way around the programmer. So far the car starts right on the first try and is fairly easy to tune but I think the next time around I want something a little more advanced and has more options. -jeff

If you were going to purchase a stand alone fueling system what options features would you look for if you were using it on a street/track application? As for an explanation of street/track that means I have a car I plan to drive all the time but on those nice days/nights the other car will venture out onto the street even though thats not what its made for. I have an idea what I would want I'm just curious to see what everyone else would value. For the nay sayers I will tell you there is already one car in the stable with a stand alone system so I don't need to hear about having to know what your doing etc etc. smile.gif http://pwtuning.com/project_cars/1989gti18T/proj19.jpg -jeff

If the injector is designed to run by applying a high current to open it and then a very low current to hold it open, then without the resistor in place its basically just receiving the high current the whole time its open. Thats the point of the inline resistance to drop the amount of current the injector sees to basically the same value as it would recieve during the hold open period of its operation on an ecu made to drive low impedance injectors. Without this in place the injector can burn out as well as the ecu. I just know that when I installed a set of low impedance injectors with no resistors it burned the injectors and the ecu was fine. That was the basis of my statement.