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gillbot

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Posts posted by gillbot

  1. You're right, they brought the ultra hot light of the feds on themselves thanks to a few very stupid people.

     

    The problem is now the feds are dropping the hammer on the rest of us along with the powersports industry too.

     

    But this is what always happens, the squeaky wheel gets the grease. Knee jerk government reactions are typically based on minor issues but cast wide enough to screw over everybody.

  2. Ha! Thanks. This is one that looks better in pics than in person! :lolguy: 165K miles and I am flogging it every day. The last one was too nice to do stupid shit to (but oddly enough, this one runs better!). This is THE car to do stupid shit too. :lolguy:

     

    They all qualify to do stupid shit to. Some just make you feel bad when you get too stupid. :lolguy:

  3. That's kind of a concern but I'm pretty sure I could get away with a 100 shot for awhile. Hell....I only drive the car a handful of times a year as it is. Even if the motor did let go that would just motivate me to do an LQ9.

    I know about the plugs, timing, and tuning. I already have a racetronix fuel pump with hotwire. I also have hptuners and tune myself. I've looked at kits a few times over the years and always talk myself out of it. This time I think I might do it. I want to go a little faster and short of starting over with boost spray makes the most sense. I was looking at a plate kit from nitrous outlet. I just want sure how hard it'll be to refill bottles and things like that.

     

    That was the same thought when I had mine. I just did a simple wet kit and like Wags said, I did the plate. No need for extra stuff like injectors or anything crazy. I kept it mild around 100 and I did pull timing in the tune but I also did the resistor trick on the IAT to "enable" that so it was normal timing until I armed the kit. I'm sure there are much better solutions now than there were back 20ish years ago when the only tuning solution was LS1 Edit.

     

    Just do your research and go with what you feel safe doing. Always keep in mind that it's a gamble, but you have that with any power adder.

  4. There's a lot more to it than just bolting on a kit.

     

    I would go with a Nitrous Outlet plate system, we ran one for years on my car and had zero issues.

     

    Outside of that, you'll need to upgrade your fuel pump, fuel injectors, add a hot wire kit for the new pump, and get the car tuned.

     

    Racetronix makes fuel system kits for our cars that have everything minus the injectors. They are great to deal with and can get you going in the right direction.

     

    https://racetronix.com/

     

    For injectors, you'll want at least 42lb an hour to keep the fuel system fed and happy.

     

    Tuning is the most important thing out of all of this, I would suggest going to Dynotune Motorsports. Brian has tuned MANY of these combos.

     

    Something else to think about is a progressive nitrous controller, that will help at the track.

     

    "Small" is what Zex jets for in their "safe shot" kit. 13-35hp. You are going to need to change plugs, look at the entire fuel system like Brian, mentioned as well as getting the car on a nitrous tune.

     

    outside of that though, 100-150 should be fun!

     

    What these guys said. On my old car though (02 Camaro) I just put on a 75-100 shot, used a resistor to pull timing and prayed the motor didn't let go. I got extremely lucky it never did but I only hit the giggle button a handful of times.

     

    You can do it fast and cheap but in the long run you'll end up buying a new motor sooner or later. I can't count the number of engines I've seen drop a few rods at the track because someone just slapped on a quick kit for easy speed.

  5. The issue is mainly I’ve been into it twice and never got it right. Tried to take it somewhere and I think he busted the carb. There are also a couple models that may work, I’m just not sure which I need. I’d rather take it somewhere and get it right so I don’t have to mess with it for a while again. Thanks for the link though, I may get one to be safe.
  6. I have a MAC 3200 chainsaw that used to run great. At some point the fuel lines and primer bulb got hard and I took it to a place for a tuneup. Unfortunately I got it back worse than I took it there. He says the carb is shot but parts can’t be found. He offered to buy the saw from me for a song but I just picked it up and brought it home.

     

    I’d LOVE to get this saw running again. Any suggestions? I’m willing to make the trip for a reputable place to give me the real story about this saw but I’m not getting many good suggestions locally aside from big box stores that will scrap this saw and sell me a new Chinese craftsman unit.

  7. Seems like the typical OEM screws are made of mush metal and the aftermarket screws are hit or miss on fitment or they work loose. Anyone know where I can get slotted screws? At least that way they can be snugged easier and won’t turn into a round hole easily.

     

    From my reading it seems people recommend slim 1911 grip screws but I’m leery of buying as the last few haven’t worked out well.

  8. I still have my Walmart special but have been keeping an eye out to upgrade. Sadly there isn’t much in my area decent and if I wander closer to Pittsburgh there are nicer choices but the prices are rivaling new. Just can’t see spending that much.
  9. Same. I do 63 at night and 68-69 during the day.

     

    Then in contrast, summer its 68-69 at night and like 74 during the day

     

    Mine is similar.

     

    70 morning

    71 day (since kids and wife are out of school for now)

    69 evening

    68 at night

     

    In the summer i'll switch it up, but it's similar. Normally i'd let it get a little cooler in the day but COVID and people home all day now.

  10. 64 from 70 is a pretty aggressive turndown. There is a point at which the usage required to recover the full air volume of the house X degrees will offset the savings of turning it down that far. You've got to climb back up the hill, so to speak.

     

    Just food for thought, but you could experiment with it to find out whether it matters.

     

    For me it’s less to do with savings and recovery, many like to sleep cooler. I’d drop it at night regardless if there was a savings or not.

  11. I’ve got a few cars as well, and a truck with an 8ft bed is handy to have.

     

    However, is it really worth trading such a reliable/efficient car ALL THE TIME for a serious downgrade in mileage...and use of a truck a fraction of the time? Are you not 30-60min away from coming back with your truck if there’s a hauling need?

     

    Even if there’s a buy-sell-trade freebie my wife wants me to pick up 20-30min away, I’ll swap vehicles if needed. Give someone a schedule and they should be able to work with you returning for something.

     

    This.

     

    I can even think of a time I absolutely NEEDED a truck and couldn't just go get one. I traded my truck in for a Jeep more for the funs than mileage considerations though. Where i'm at now a truck would be nice but 4x4 is absolutely needed. Even most cars here are AWD/Subaru/etc.

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