Berto

i made my turbo inlet duct with the black PVC piping (heat and pressure resistant) not that i need the pressure, but yeah heat resistance is good.

i found it. it was a bad fuel injector relay, the thing is huge! 85 bux, advanced auto doesn't even carry it

i think i narrowed it down to a short in my RX-7 i got a short circuit tester with the jumping needle but i'm not sure i'm using it right, and the instructions suck. anyone good with electric shit? i definately need some help

after a 20 mins and a new alternator the corolla roars again. woo woo

double post new topic

damn my car and electrical problems, still haven't figured out the 7 yet. but this one is with the corolla i was driving around and i got the "low voltage" reading on my radar detector, i got it a couple times before but no biggie, by the time i pulled into my parents house in cinci when i hit the brakes it would read low voltage along witha dimming in lights i tried to make it home but the car simply died not even enough charge for the motor to run what i'm thinking happened is alternator took a shit, and the battery got discharged. does that sound right? also u think i can make it hom on a battery( 1.5 hr drive) if i have no accesories on?

if we use jerrads ride for the bling then we know we can use tru dat's for the zing graemlins/nutkick.gif

i think the best way to check for a blown strut is go on the free way with a friend and have them look at your wheel on like bridge connections and what not, u'll be able to see the wheel bouncing excesively if ur struts(shocks) are blown. all 4 shocks will set you back in the 200+ range, for just parts.

tinman might be able to do it? PM him...

word thats what i was gonna say.

let them soak in carb cleaner

thumbs up from me also, did the rotors on my mom's minivan, i was hitting them witha sldegehammer and they weren't comming off.

i heard the orange shit is better but its somewhat corrosive, but since ur car came with it, i'd just stick with that.

don't bondo your hood or any "big" surface on your car, thats the worse advice ever, as soon as those big panels give just a little bit, that hardened bondo or whatever teh fuck you use will crack and chip like its none of your business.

did u get more fluid? remember have someone pump several times(valve close) then ask them to hold the pedal, open and close valve. repeat.

right HP+ is a "track" pad HPS is more street friendly but meh i like knowing i can brake when i need to, also my braided brake lines rock, i recommend them!

hawk HP+ i have them on the front of my 7 night and day difference, only bad thing is they squeel when they are hot(only when slowing to a stop) and they dust like a mother fucker.

i know my mazda rotors come with a sort of gelcoat type ordeal real glossy paint probably wouldn't stick well, can you see the bare iron on ur calipers if so i don't see why the paint wouldn't stick

no shit, the other day we did a roadforce ona truck tire, and it did 90lbs of roadforce, my manager said "bolt it on, thats normal for a firestone" god those tires blow.(no pun intended)

is the vibration at idle? maybe wheels are out of balance? or also could be bent rim, or could be a separated belt on the tire, u need to specify. could be bad motor mount?

i dunno how much rims cost but more than likely the better deal will be buying one off someoen taht has aftermarket wheels. what they did at discount was probably road force the tire. depending on the bend, like hua said it shouldn't vibrate but then again aren't TA tires 45 series? the smaller the series the more chance u'll feel it. what kind of tire is it? i know firestones are notorious for a SHITTY SHITTY road force. if u want to man bring it up to the polaris store and i can measure the rim runout and see what the dealio is, u can come out back and watch too.

i haven't tried this, i heard it from your boyfriend.

1) if u don't know much about cars u need to also think about learning about cars before makign it faster, or a shop that'll instlal the turbo set up for you. 2)removing rev limiter is retarded unless you hav ea built engine ready to take it 3)if u do cheap mods intake, header, exhaust. u may get 10 hp, it ain't worth the money unless ur going with the whole thing (IE turbo or other form of forced induction)

do like you would on any other car, start by checking spark, fuel, and compression. then go from there.

nitto's suck IMO way too hard they used to have the 555R's with 50 treadwear....those were badass. do a search there have been many topics discussing this. remember the reason internet places can make good prices like that is because they don't install ur tires, if u can get someone to do it cheap then good but i know most places rip you.