BlackMess

It was just the Y. It sits below the motor/tranny

Frame rails??

Your average honest business owner would be able to make things right one way or another. Never once when I have had an issue at a business has the owner not tried to put the customer first and make it right. The issue was tried to be resolved by the owner of the vehicle and the business owners, but they were not very receptive. I think more an anything its just frustrating when you put the amout of trust into a local shop and get treated in the manner I did. They wouldnt admit to their faults months ago so why would they now? I I'm done fixing the car for now and it will shortly be going to a reputable shop for an estimate to repair all of it's problems. Then proper legal actions will more then likely be taken.

Tank, The brake wire u had hooked up to the mazda switch needed to see a constant 12v not 12v when the brakes are applied. I got a relay and wired it as so. Mazda brake wire to pin 85, ground to pin 86, switched 12v to pin 30, gm brake wire to pin 87a. Write that that down in case you ever need to wire up a relay as so!

Well I go to install the glove box tonight to button up the interior and no suprise more problems. Whoever did the wiriring on the car decided to remove the glovebox. The box has two screws one each side that attatch it to the dash. The intelligent person working on my car decide to use brute force and pull it off, breaking all the plastic tabs that hold on the glovebox. Once again another IPS screw up that is going to cost me BIG MONEY if I can even source a replacement dash. I am beyond frustrated and will most likely be contacting a lawyer monday morning! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/rx7022.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/rx7021.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/rx7020.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/rx7019.jpg

Well if you read my prior post you know I have hood clearance issues when the proper motor mounts are used. You may ask how I know I have hood clearance issues. The answer to that question is when you slam the hood and there is the horn of the throttle body in the way it will crease your hood.Im no body man but I believe its going to be more than $150.00 to fix (Thanks again IPS) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/rx7017.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/rx7018.jpg But anyways I had the TB spacer machined in hopes of curing my problem. I just got it back from the machine shop today. If my weekend frees up and get the biscuit mount in I will try and toss it on and post up the results! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/rx7012.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/rx7013.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/rx7010.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/rx7011.jpg

The subframe uses C5 pedestals along with biscuit mounts. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/subframe1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/subframe.jpg Sexy piece, isn't it? I decided to purchase this subframe after waiting 8 months for IPS to "fabricate" one. This is a quality piece

Next on the list is to remove the "Custom IPS Solid Motor Mounts" and replace them with the biscuit motor mount the subframe was designed for. By removing the biscuit mounts it has lowered the engine far below the subframe, I'm no engineer or fabricator but to me lowering the engine below the subframe makes no sense simply because my oil pan has a date with the speed bump coming into to my apartment real soon! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/rx7007.jpg The local machine shop if machining a TB spacer that if my measurements are right should put the throttle body and the deepest part of the hood allowing me to install my steering rack spacers and properly correct my bump steer issues! Anyways stay tuned as you never know what I may encounter as I dig deeper and deeper into this "mess".

Because people were having a fit because I was posting pictures in the consumer reports I figured i'd post them here! Not much of a transformation yet but.... From this. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/RX7ThrottleBody017.jpg To this. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/rx7003.jpg Then this http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/rx7001.jpg Somehow I got this from all that!! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/rx7004.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/rx7006.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/rx7005.jpg One would assume after removing about 100ft of wiring and actually being able to install the passenger kick panel and take a passenger in the car that theres no way it would start! Obviously the wires were necessary or they would have been removed... Right? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/th_02-11-10_1602.jpg

Not a big deal, if it doesn't start i'll just repin the connector.

But my cars a bastard child so who knows.

Yea out of all the members on the forum nobody has ever jumpered those wires. X-05 is only used for cooling fan relay wire....

hmmm.........

Cleaning up this wiring mess and depinning the connector so I can tuck it behind the kickpanel. No idea why theey would be jumpered? Unless it has something to do with the fan relays. I've spent hours going through the FSM and can't seem to trace the circuit

FSM=Factory service manual? I've got it. Yes factory mazda connector. x-05 is loacted by the passesngeer side kick panel.

Trying to rework some wiring on my ls1 FD. This is the x-05 connector. The shop who did some work on my car jumpered the red/yellow and blue/yellow wires together. I cant figure out why? I looked through the FSM and the wires appear to be the EGR and ABV valve. Can anyone confirm what these two wires are? I'm thinking all I need from the x-05 is the blue/white for fan relay and the blue/black for dash lights? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v126/ejmack/IMG_0065.jpg

I'm trying to make it clear to future customers on how this shop has treated me. They have done nothing to appologize or even try to make things right. I'm just addressing current issues with the vehicle in hopes IPS will have some answers for me.

Well after spending the night troubleshooting some electrical gremlins I came to some interesting findings. When the vehicle is stopped it wants to push it self forward. After some research the 4l60e needs to see a constant 12V to lock the converter and 0V to unlock to converter. IPS has that brake wire going to the mazda brake switch. When the mazda brakes are applied it supplies the switch 12V. So at a red light my conveter is locked. Thanks IPS for adding a $4.00 relay in order to reverse the polarity of the wires when the brakes are aplied!

The question of the evening is where do you look for the new marker light you dropped off to go in the new bumper? The box of extra parts? the trunk? the tow vehicle that brought the car home? No you guessed it! You have to remove the seat, then remove the carpet and you will find the new marker lens you had dropped off! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/RX7ThrottleBody.jpg

Why buy oval exhaust tubing because after backing the car off the trailer and pulling it in the garage your $1,000.00 exhaust system becomes oval piping! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/RX7ThrottleBody005.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/RX7ThrottleBody009.jpg Obviously a rubber grommet is asking to much! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/RX7ThrottleBody007.jpg Oh Hai missing suspension bolt and battery cable dangling under the car! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/RX7ThrottleBody008.jpg And lastly just wanted to say thanks again for putting some plastic down on my seat before you threw the old drive shaft in! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/hiitsmejimmy/RX7ThrottleBody011-1.jpg

This debate is far from the issue of the customer being happy. Happy and taken advantage of are two totally seperate things. It says a tremendous amount about what kind of shop you are to let a vehicle leave in the condition it did and to let a customer leave as unsatisified as me. And I've yet two hear anyone associated with IPS deny the fact that I was taken advanatge of. Like I've said previously we could debate over this issue for years but I have the "truth" in my garage. Before Anthony cleaned up the thread I would have to say consensus says I'm not the only one unsatisified with work you pushed out of your "business". I'm going to put this issue behind me and try to recoup from my severe loss. If I ever get black mess road worthy I may take it to a body shop and see if they will match your $300.00 estimate to fix your admitted screw ups to my car! Like Erik said many months ago. "why don't you worry about why you lose customers, not the customers you already lost. Your arrogance overwhelms you"

Eric, Once again were back to this "free" and favor stuff. I understand this was done as sidework which is completely understandable, but $300.00 to me is far from free. Its just simply amazing that there can be sooooo much confusion when it comes to painting 2 bumpers.

...

And I do appreciate your work Mike and we have both put out heads together in order to piece this thing together as best as we can! I never once asked you to put one free hour of labor into my car and mentioned SEVERAL times I would wrap it up myself! But your brother is very out of line when it comes to customer loyality and respect for somebody's car! I feel the business would grow if you bought his half out and ran the shop yourself!

They ran a batter relocation kit for me and drilled a hole in the floor board and WOULD NOT even put a $.08 Grommet around the wire so the metal doesn't cut through the insulation and "Wake" me up when I open the door!