desperado

Damn I am sick of this shit. Race Card??? Black, white, yellow or pink with pokadots, we are all the same, skin color is fucking meaningless. We are ALL Americans, and we are all human beings. Any deviation from this is racist. You want to hate something, hate stupidity, wipe it out, kill it, educate people that there is no difference, and playing race cards is being a biggot, and is stupid. There are a very few in society that do this sort of shit that drive wedges between everyone else. And its assholes like the great Reverend Jackson that keep this shit going. Cuz if we all got along and not paid attention to this silly shit, they would be out of a job.

happy birthday Dave!

I would bet real money that they welded it up with standard wire, and it WILL rust in a year or so. If you weld stainless, you have to do it with stainless wire or the weld will rust out.

Did they specify that it was finish honed or just bored???? I am not going into the specifics of boring and finish honing a block becasue some fuckstick will argue that I have no clue what I am talking about. But if they rough bored it, within a few ten thousandths like is suppost to be done, then expected you to finish the walls up with a hone to get it to spec, then that is what happened. I am assuming that you are running a roller cam, because EVERY cam manufacture that I know of says above 2000 RPM for no less than 30 min to get the lifters worn in. If they are NOT rollers. BUT, and I say this to all that read this post. DO NOT FUCKING TRUST ANY MACHINE SHOP TO DO A JOB CORRECTLY, WHEN YOU GET YOUR MACHINED PART BACK VERIFY IT WITH THE PROPER MEASUREMENT DEVICE THE KNOW THE WORK IS RIGHT!!!!!! And if you don't know how to do it, find some one to teach you and help you check it. If you don't you WILL sooner or later, end up with a really expensive paper weight.

OK, I will get Josh done first. The intermediate circuits in the carbs are plugged, the bike is starving for fuel the "secondaries" are opening and the bike roars to life. Basically you have dirt in the carbs. They need to be pulled and cleaned,and possibly rebuilt. Streetlight, you have a bit more of a problem. First thing to do is unless you had an empty tank this spring or put stablizer in the gas, you probably have similar problems with gunk in the carbs, but yours is worse. First thing it to drain the carbs. There are screws on the bottom of the flost bowels on the carbs. If you loosen them the gas in the carbs will run out. If it doesn't, turn on the fuel and see if it does. If not you have one of three things wrong. First is that the carbs are really gunked up. Second is that the fuel filter in the petcock (on/off valve) for the fuel is clogged. Third is that the fuel line is plugged. What kind of bike is it. And if you want me to look at it. PM me, I don't know what Classic cycle wants to fix it. But I bet I can do it cheaper.

Yeah, pull the driveline and set that bitch a fire. Damn, that guy could fuck up a wet dream.

Damn, that blower is gonna go for the price of a new one by the time the buyer pays shipping. Not that is a bad thing but the prices for performance stuff on E-bay, Especially nitrous is wicked high. [ 05. May 2004, 11:58 AM: Message edited by: Desperado ]

MSD, yes. Has power and ground directly to the battery with a noise filter cap as well, just for good measure. I am thinking my fuel pump might be weak. It's been around awhile so it's getting changed to a high capacity mechanical with a regulator.

See, the Great and Powerful Desperado knows all! Visions of performance parts plague his mind constantly! Good to hear that you got it squared away Vince. Have fun at Norwalk.

the nose falls like a rock and it just quits making power. 327 motor, it starts sounding a bit different but I don't thinks the valves are floating. Time to start tuning the damn thing. It's runnign locked timing, 38 degree's. 650 double pumper. I haven't really started tuning the thing yet, but something ain't right. I may end up putting the double hump heads on the thing if this shit keeps up. I turned the 350 to 7500 with no problems. Damn car.

No, I meant Vince. I thought he had a 4.3 in that. Of course I could be wrong.

Congrats to the two of you, as far as the other moosehumps, and their dumbass comments. They will never know the joy of it, due to having a lack of ability to find a woman worth commiting to for that long.

Speaking of which, when are you gonna get a big motor in that thing?

I was editing my post while you were replying. The vacuum supply to the modulator should be from the manifold vacuum. On a holley, that is the one on the baseplate, front of the carb, pointing to the right front. If that don't get it, swap it to the brake vacuum port of the manifold. If you have it on the right side of the front bowel then you have two problems, one is that it's the wrong port for the modulator, second is that you have the vacuum advance connected wrong as well. That is the port on the metering (jet) plate on the front of the carb, over the passenger idle mixture screw. Hoping that it is a holley, if not this is more typing than I needed to do.

Did it flop back then somehow, or is it tied off good. Better check it. After reading post again. I need to check my manuals at home to give a better diagnosis. But as a guess, I would say that the pressure is dropping in 3 near the top and it is goig into netural. The other I am not sure on but I will check.

combination modulator bad/going bad and your kickdown is stuck. Either that, or the mechanical govoner froze up. Anything else that would do that is valve body problems. If you have not put a shift kit in it. I would say that it's got real problems if none of the stuff I mentioned above are causeing it. If you have had the valve body down, there is a good change that something came loose/gasket blew between passages.

What size is it. pipe diameter?

I need some CHEAP 16 inch tires to go on some 8 inch rims I have. 50 series tires, I don't care if they are bald, just need to hold air so I can move the car around they are going on.

You meed to get some idea of what you want to do with the car before you go much further. At least figure out if it's going to be a straight line car or a road course car. There are alot of bacis differences depending and you will never be fast at either trying to do both.

There are electric superchargers, they are damn expensive, and I doubt that it adds much more power than it takes to spin the alternator big enough to keep it running. Turbo the damn thing and be done with it. That or get a paxton, but I don't know as I would screw with an electric. And before someone says it. No I am not talking about that shit on ebay for 50 bucks. 3500 will get you an electric, and the thing will draw 90 amps to run it.

It's not talked about muvh any more, but there was a Licking County Deputy Sheriff that did that in the locker room. They had just gone to automatics from 38 revolvers and he was practicing his quick draw in front of a mirror. Shot himself in the foot. Was off for a while healing up. Then about a year later, he did the same shit again. Quick draw in front of the same mirror and got himself in the other foot. Not to bright.

What is it and what's it doing specifically? I have revived more dead bikes than I care to remember, evenrything from Harley's to a Honda 305 Dream. Maybe I can point you in the right direction or something.

I would haveto agree that all things being equal, a fixed voltage return system is better. I think we discussed the whole flow thing a couple months ago, so I will only mention that and not get back into it. Electric motors, in general, are designed to be operated at a specific voltage, and not variable voltage to regulate speed. This is especailly true of DC motors. There are motors that are designed to be variable speed, but they are stepper motors or AC motors that the AC frequency is varied to change motor speed. DC motors, that are run at too low a voltage, will burn out QUICKER than motors that are over voltage, but not by alot, and neither is good to do. Yes, I know this is what the factory does, they replace a regulator, AN fittings, high pressure lines and a seperate tank fitting with a .30 transistor that will vary pump voltage and burn out the pump after a while, but they saved $40 building the car. Of course the charge more for the car, but it still costs less to make. And it will only be under warrenty for so long. Point is this, quit screwing around with trying to do performance on the cheap. There are products that will do waht you are wanting to do already, MSD sells one for sure, look in the JEGs catalog near the fuel pump listing. Or bite the bullet, go with a bigger pump, and a return system. And as long as you build it right to begin with, and allow for as much return flow as flow out of the tank, you can put in a big pump, that will handle a way bigger motor down the road if you deside to build bog later on.

How are the headlight baskets? And I also need the wiring and light sockets for the tail lights. Let me know.

SOunds like you got some crossed wires. Bring it out if you like. I enjoy chasing wiring problems and am pretty good at it.