SHIEF

Not really, don't think this is my route though.

Still wanting.... Added 260z, didn't know the difference chassis wise is only 3" wider than the 240z.

The heat exchanger like anything else will get hot, fan or not. Sure it will work for awhile and keep the water temps cooler for a bit longer but like any other radiator it will get hot too. Just not practical or worth the $$ imo.

I can't find a Fed-Ex drop spot around me that will take a decent size package and not charge their own fees at the drop spot. I checked online for one. The ones around me said there would be extra fees for using that drop spot

This is true. It's made of stainless. I just don't want it to get dented up.

If your going to daily it every now and then, and also keep it mostly a street car, go with the air to air. Air to water is great for race car, but not a street/daily car IMO. Once that water gets heated up it's just dead weight in the front of your car. Alot of times I see the 1/4 import guys who use them, put ice in the water then after the run(s) drain it all back out and put new in. So if you want to keep filling it/draining it, every so often then that's your call. Air to air would be what I would go with on a street car. You can always use nitrous or co2, to cool the intercooler for some extra hp when needed. BTW: your dad see what happened to his cap window?

Yeah I measured/weighed about what the box would be, and it's within the UPS specs. Thanks though.

I need to ship a S13 Apexi GT Spec (1-piece) exhaust out ASAP. I'm having trouble getting a box that will work to ship it out. I can make a box if someone has something of decent size to start with. Jeff at IPS is working on getting one, but I need to ship this like yesterday. So if you have one or can get one, I need it. Thanks.

Your safc-2 will handle up to 550cc injectors I believe on the SR's (sorry I don't know what cc is the upgrade on SR's, i think 550's sound right though). So if you go past that level on the injectors fuel/hp wise, then you'll have to upgrade your engine management.

A regular customer came in the shop today and we got talking about this swap, and he said to stop by his neighbors house because he has a few 240Z's in his drive. So I stopped over met/talked to the guy, and sure enough he bought the $800 Z your talking about Mark. No rust, decent interior, straight body. WELL worth $800, I wish I would've started looking for these when that ad came out That guy showed me where to look for bad spots on these also Mudd Butt. Thanks.

No I'm not. Some say the cucumber tastes better pickled [ 07. June 2005, 10:46 PM: Message edited by: SHIEF ]

Haha Ben. A guy I work with won't stop buggin me about putting it in an Opel. I'd consider it, except the front end on those is hit.

As interesting as the Benz swap would be, I don't think I'm gonna do that. I was hoping to have my mind changed, but nothing really sparks my interest that I've seen. Seems that the 240Z is it. Thanks for the help smile.gif

Just listen to me next time

Haha! Funny because my dad use to have a 3 wheel golf cart with a Harley Davidson engine (dunno what spec) that he used as his pit cart. It hauled for a golf cart

I guess I'm still kind of leaning toward the S14 or the 240Z/260Z right now. [ 01. June 2005, 11:07 PM: Message edited by: SHIEF ]

Those old Yota's look pretty cool, but it looks like it would be a wedge-fugg with a V8. I don't really care for the 'g-bodied' GM's knowing what they are now.

*gulp* What's a g-body?

I dunno, I plan on going electric fan though.

This thing will make just a little more hp than a LT1 smile.gif Yeah there are a few S13, S14 V8 cars. So it's been done with good results. Don't really want to swap it into a truck though.

Well, since I quit on my 240 I'm going back to V8 land. I have a pretty decent chevy small block ready to go when I find a decent chassis to put it in. This will be matched up with a powerglide for the tranny. So what chassis would you pick? I kind of want something different, but not expensive to get ahold of. Needs to already be rwd. So far the only 2 I have been thinking about based only on my liking of Nissans is a S14 240sx ("yeah it's an SR") and a older 240Z, 260Z. But I'm open to other chassis as well. What would you pick and why?

Couldn't have said it much better than "raping" on the JWT part graemlins/thumb.gif Do not go with the JWT ecu/tuning. Go piggy, e-prom rewrite, or standalone.

I like piggybacks to a certain level (like around the 350hp level, not much past that). I'm just not a fan of messing with the E-prom/daughter board. 'Pototo, Potato'. Yeah your right though, the S13 ecu is a rather easy prom to rewrite if you have the stuff/knowledge to do it.

I was not telling him that he had to go standalone, I was just saying he could go map if he had planned on going standalone someday. Yeah the safc can change the resolution of the maf.

It's been a common problem for both engines. Basically you'll have to lie to your maf with the safc, telling it that it's pulling enough air to keep it from stalling. Meaning, like if your going down a road, then shift and then come to a stop light or stop sign the car will want to cut out/stall. All your doing with the bov is keeping that air that is trapped in the pipes from being pushed out the turbo on the compressor side opening (compressor surge). The cold side will get rid of the excess air better, but you'll have a better chance of a stalling issue if you don't recirculate the bov. The hot side will still get rid of the excess air, just not as much as the cold side would. But your not taking away too much air for the maf to freak out. If it was me and I wanted to put it on the cold side, I'd recirculate it. If I wanted it on the hot side, I'd vent it to the atmosphere (not recirculate it). If you went with like a AEM EMS, you could get rid of the maf, and just go with a map sensor smile.gif