Red Beard

Nothing really to report. The older ones where known for timing chain stretch. So make sure you change that when it needs it but otherwise they are a reliable engine. They are a 4 chain design if memory serves me correct, and a PITA to change out. Some have issues with using oil when you beat on them but that's to be expected with abuse. Note, I have never owned one personally, just worked on them in the past.

Have fun fellas, Will have to see about catching it the next time round.

Thing was scooting sir! Probably had the a/c on to boot lol.

http://assets.nydailynews.com/polopoly_fs/1.1533782.1385866624!/img/httpImage/image.jpg_gen/derivatives/article_750/walker1n-4.jpg lol

My god that would be so much turn key fun! Someone has some money soaked and time vested in that. Love how unassuming it looks from the outside aside from the slicks lol

There goes the budget :lolguy: 1000 hp naturally aspirated from a "crate engine" just amazes me lol.

That is unless he goes old school with a carb set up. Who needs guages anyway? :gabe:

I'm sure you've seen it, but here's a little break down on cost for the 5.0L swap http://www.e36v8.net/E36_50_swap_planning%20guide.pdf Or just more indepth info of it being done before here oh and one other thing i forgot to mention, ditch the big bulky mechanical fan on the 5.0L. It doesn't gain a whole lot of extra power but definitely allows for better throttle response. That's assuming there is room to fit it in there in the first place.

I Know right? lol Both are a good option for a fun project. But.... Once the 2jz is in, its done, shouldn't have to pull it for quite some time. And its minimal adjustment needed from the get go. Proper head gasket and studs are all that needs to be changed internally. The rest is all up top with cams, and bolt on's. Hardest thing to figure up is the wiring splicing needed to run the bmw gauges and electronics. Most of the expense is in the custom mounts needed, intake and exhaust. Rest can be done over time to increase power over time based on budget of course lol. Not to mention, that engine bay is already set up for an inline, so retaining the a/c (if you have it) and all the other odds & ends stuff is more likely.

Exactly what my long winded point was lol. Especially for what you have in the truck, there is always some kid that will need a truck more than the mustang and would be willing to come off it pretty cheap. Hell even if you go straight up on that mustang, gutted what you needed out of it and sold the rolling chassis you would still recoup most of your losses and sell the truck out right for the same.

By all means I am all for seeing this done! Do not take what is said as a deterrent to not do it! With that said, for what you are doing, and respectably looking to double the power you have now, the 94 truck motor platform would be a low budget option to get there. It would take some work, a few tweaks here and there, and you would have a power limit with out making changes. But to literally shoe horn it in and go you would have less than a grand in the whole swap if you do the leg work to get the parts you need. Now what I would suggest is get the truck, and see if someone would be willing to trade it for mid 90's mustang (preferably 95 gt manual trans). that way you would have everything you would need to do the swap without much money in it. It would have the proper ecu, engine platform, trans, etc. That would give you the best of both worlds, and still be what you originally intended. As far as the jz swaps, its more money, but definitely a solid platform. The swap is quite popular in the 240 scene. They make specific kits for the 240 to bolt them right in, not sure about the bmw. But either swap would require custom brackets I would imagine. The benefits would warrant the cost, but it wouldn't be the nostalgic v8 growl or simplicity of a naturally aspirated 5.0L

Only paid $80 for my m44 damn near 10 years ago, now-a-days you're lucky to find them for less than $170. They were never the 'show' gun but a bulk made firearm that sat in a cosmoline dip for decades lol. Still one of my favorite guns to shoot though, the fireball of a muzzle flash and concussion they give is hard to beat for the cost of them. Getting a spam can of surplus ammo is still fairly cheap as well $120-140 for 440 rounds. So bang for buck its almost as cheap as shooting a .22 any more lol. Cabella's is asking $230 for them in the same condition as what yours appears to be in. I would list it for $180 if you're looking to off load it quick or higher if you're willing to sit on it for a bit.

Nothing that hasnt already been said, aluminum heads for weight or t40 heads for low budget, E303 cam, tweaking the timing, little porting/polishing, better injectors, and exhaust it will be quite peppy for what it is. Add a low budget turbo and It will be even better. As others have suggested though, you will want the mustang oil pan (the truck is a single sump pan, mustang is a dual sump style that is lower profile for the cross member. The truck intake is a bit taller than the mustang one. It may cause a clearance issue with the hood. Correct me if I am wrong, but in my older body style truck (1990 efi), it was a multi port firing order for the fuel injection, the newer mustang 5.0L (1994/1995) are sequential. This may cause some issues if you are trying to use an older or the truck ecu to run the engine. Again may not be such an issue being yours is a 1994, but when I swapped a new 95 block and intake in my older truck, it ran fat as hell, would actually die if you tried to hammer it from idle. Took forever to figure out why.

I would rock the shit out of that Allroad! could you imagine the tune? pulling up in an un-assuming soccer mom looking ride, dropping the suspension down and beasting it off the line? That would be sweet! wish I had room in the budget to put that in the stable as a daily.

lol, hes gonna need more than an engine lift. They have kits out there that make the swap simpler, however it will be a tight shoehorn in (ask me how i know lol). The biggest hurdle will be the wiring if he is planning to use all the nissan electronics with the toyota/lexus ecu and harnesses (lots of splicing). I would suggest going to harbor freight and picking one up or buying one off craigslist. It will definitely pay for itself over time. https://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/d/engine-hoist-pittsburgh-1-ton/6290604467.html

Bump, can send pics via text if need be.

KOA's are always a good bet, well cared for and camper friendly for the most part. They have them all over the U.S. https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1GGRV_enUS753US753&q=koa+campground+ohio&npsic=0&rflfq=1&rlha=0&rllag=40208613,-83437356,115196&tbm=lcl&ved=0ahUKEwjI2PvX3bnWAhXBJiYKHcnNAEEQtgMIKA&tbs=lrf:!2m1!1e3!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:4&rldoc=1#rlfi=hd:;si:;mv:!1m3!1d1224411.0267882624!2d-82.45972629999999!3d40.56985015!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i393!2i303!4f13.1;tbs:lrf:!2m1!1e3!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:4

"_________" Thats how I want to die! lol

Upgraded the fridge in the house so swapping out the old for the new. I have an off white full size fridge forsale (upper freezer/ lower fridge) in good working order. Its not fancy but it works great. Could use a little cleaning from sitting (quick wipe down). Asking $30. Located in Ashley. Can deliver for extra gas money.

Depending on the year of the truck, that may be causing your hard start issues. Short trips less than 10 min are hard on older diesels (not sure about the newer ones). Doesn't give them enough time to warm up and burn off nasties that build up over time. I would suggest running some Diesel clean through the tank to clean things up a bit. Might help with getting some easier starts. This will also help if you are getting some algae growth in the fuel tanks. It is common in older diesel that has been sitting to start growing unwanted stuff lol. Also some power strokes require you to hold the gas on at start (half pedal in warm weather/ floored in cold). This again applies more to the older ones than new, but may help.

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