Diesel Pilot

Anyone know what channel on Directv covers WRC? I remember seeing it last year I just can't remember. Was it HD theater or 101?

That resets the service indicator. It doesn't clear DTC's from the computer.

Does anyone have a code reader/reset tool for BMW's 87-00? I was able to get the codes off the car using the check engine light flash trick, but now I need to clear them all. I have a million O2 sensor codes and don't want to wait for car to go through the complete flash sequence to erase them. I was thinking about getting one off ebay, but if anyone has one that would save me a few bucks. Thanks Craig

Awesome! Plans for a weight bracket yet?

An 05 with < 30k. :eek2: Nice find!

http://www.thecitizensarmory.com/ cheap shipping.

20sf here as well. I've only sent factory loads through mine so far, it's only a month old. Still doing a lot of reading about different loads before I put the dillon to work. Incidentally, here is a pretty good deal for factory practice ammo. It's not that powerful, but get's rounds down range at a reasonable price for 10mm. http://www.palmettostatearmory.com/1711.php Canned heat from Georgia Arms is good too, but it's rarely in stock anymore

Imperial gallon v. US gallon and the UK versions don't have as much emissions crap. Still the UK version gets about 55 mpg highway after the conversion. I get about 39-41 mixed and 45-46 highway in my 09 TDI. If I could stand to drive between 55-60 mph on the highway it would easily get 50, but the mpg's really starts to drop off above 65.

Tony's twin LB7 was a sick truck for it's time, way ahead of the curve I'm the guy helping Ed with his pulling truck tuning. It should be a beast this year. Sorry for OT. Back On topic. I had an LLY and it was great, ran 12.81 on tuning and transmission alone. If I were looking to buy another, I'd look strictly at the LBZ 06-07. They don't have the DPF and have the 6 speed, which is a bit stronger than the 5 speed in stock form. If you want to mod it someday they respond the best to tuning alone, or I should say the LBZ has the greatest potential before bolt-on upgrades.

Glock!! Good things come with a blue label. http://www.crestpacificbeach.com/photos/scotch/crest-liquor-scotch-johnny-walker-blue.jpg Just picked up a G20sf last week from Vances. (LE blue label, of course)

This x 1000! Contrary to popular belief, the military is not the only way in and anymore is not even heavily weighted in interviews. However, the military is the cheapest way to becoming a commercial pilot. The civilian route can cost as much as 100k. Ever look into becoming a lawyer? I've been doing it for 10 years and it most certainly does blow. Forget having a normal family life, gone on most holidays, wtf is a weekend? Not to mention 80% of us don't even live were we start our trips from. Instead of a 45 min commute to work in a car, try driving to the airport at the buttcrack of dawn, to catch a 1 hour flight to the hub where you start your trip. then wait there for the next 4 hours until you actually go on duty. Then flight around for the next 4 days spending every night in a shitty hotel. Only to get back to your base airport after the last flight home has already left. You then have to spend the night in a flop-house called a "crash-pad" that is on par with most crappy euro trash hostels. Get back up supper early and catch a flight home. That's just the work part too. Imagine all the shit that you haven't got to do at home while you were gone for 5 days. Only to start all over again in 2 days. It can be better, and usually with time it does sometimes get better. I think if you can get a private for free, then do it. Flying is fun, until you make it a job.

I'd go with the Helo position. The great thing about the rotor pilot training is that when you're done you can jump to fixed wing very easily. Like was said earlier, there are a fair amount of helo jobs to be had in the civilian world, and 80% of those jobs go to military guys because civilian helo training is really expensive. The fixed wing pilot market is down right now but it will pick up in the next few years. You'll be in prime position for either fixed/rotor when you want out. I can't say it's the best career for family life, but it sure beats the hell out of sitting at a desk for 8 hours a day.

I have a G27 and I don't think it handles too bad. If anything it has less felt recoil than my USPc in 40s&w. Although, if you jump on a G19 or G26 after shooting the G27 the 9mm's will feel like a 22LR. If I were to do it again, I'd go with the 9mm. It is much faster and accurate on the follow-up shot. You also get an extra round with the G26 and it's about 2 oz. lighter fully loaded. I went with the .40 because all my other hand guns are .40. I also would recommend checking out the S&W M&Pc in either round. I've shot the M&Pc .40 and I'm very impressed with it. It will be a bit more $ than the Glock but you'll also get 2 more rounds and it's only marginally bigger. Here's a helpful compact pistol comparison sheet for almost everything on the market broken down by caliber. http://www.mouseguns.com/CompactCompare.pdf

It's a .223/5.56. Actually, a wylde (sp.) chamber which is supposed to be able to support both .223 and 5.56 very well. I guess slightly more accurate shooting .223 from and 5.56 type chamber. Dunno, not enough rounds through this one to tell a difference. I'd like to trade for cash if I could, but would be open to a few select trades. Pm me with what you've got and I'll let you know.

Bump. $775.

$775 This is a standard Rock River AR-15, with their two stage trigger. The barrel is 1/9 twist and not chrome lined. I've had this rifle for over a year and only put 90 rounds (brass) through it. It comes with a Matech flip-up rear sight, and the sling if you want it. I'm in the process of a light-weight build and I want to unload this one. If you know AR's, then you know Rock River makes a quality rifle and this is no exception. Sorry for the garbage cellphone pics. It's in perfect condition, always kept in a safe and transported in a hard case. http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t256/creid325/IMG_0436.jpg?t=1284338825 http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t256/creid325/IMG_0441.jpg?t=1284338824

If you are shooting for 600/1100 it wouldn't be a problem on a stock long block LBZ. You could get some miles out of that setup if it's properly tuned. Bent rods usually happen around 1300+ lb/ft and the cracked pistons are more an issue of excessive heat than anything else. A good turbo setup and proper cool down technique will go a long way to saving the pistons. I know there are a lot of LBZ's putting down 600 without opening up the engine, and they aren't having any problems with the pistons. I think when the LBZ came out, guys thought they could get away with a lot more because it was supposed to be so much stronger, but in reality it's on marginally stronger. But the huge advantage is in the tuning. LBZ's will sing at 5000+ rpm all day long. It's really hard to get the older models to sustain those types of rpm. I'm working with a guy in Cincy that has an LB7 pulling truck and it's a challenge to get it running well above 4300 rpm even with huge injectors.

Join Duramaxdiesels.com, I'm a mod there and the board is just for high performance duramax's, none of the "what wiper blades are best" BS on some of the other boards. There is also a section just for transplants. There was a duramax powered mustang at the Texas mile this year with a 4l80e behind it. One of the builders is also a mod on that site. LB7, LLY are both good, LLY would be easier to change injectors if you ever wanted to. I have an LLY and it has never overheated or even gotten close, I think that overheat thing is mostly interent BS. For a swap into a car, I'd go LBZ. It has a bit stronger bottom end and the big advantage is it's capable of much higher rpm than the earlier models. LB7/LLY injectors start to "skip" above 4200 rpm because of the low processing power of the injector controller. The LBZ has a much better ECM and does away with the injector controller all together. It is capable of 5500+ rpm.

What's with all the regional haters? Seriously, I'd like to know. If your flying out of CMH, there's more than a 70% chance of riding on an airplane with less than 100 seats.

Guys, the OP asked for CR diesel experts. Not internet rumor answers from a bunch of Cummins and Powerstroke fan-boys. He didn't ask about any of those engines. True, the 6.2L not as powerful as the Cummins or Duramax. But, you can't compare any of the modern turbo diesel's to an engine that was designed in 1982. The 6.2L is a great engine if it is used for what it was designed for. It has good towing torque and great fuel economy for a heavy duty diesel engine. It will beat any of the mentioned engines in fuel economy by far if geared properly and will last as long or longer. It served the military for a very long time, and was good in it's roll as an all-purpose diesel engine for smaller military vehicles. You're not going to win any speed records or pulling contest's but it is a truly great engine. Doing a Cummins swap on a Landcruiser would not be a great idea. That engine is way too heavy for that chassis and I don't know about the engine bay on the LC, but I'm guessing the Cummins won't even fit (height). The weight would be murder on the front suspension, it weights almost 800 lbs. Leave the 6.2L in there, the works already done for you.

I think the pricing is dead-on. It's an 11 year old truck. It is in pretty good shape for it's age and the 7.3L is a really good engine. I don't think you should worry about anything being wrong with it. It's pretty close to KBB and NADA value. Trade-in would be way less than the asking price. He's probably looking to get a newer truck and doesn't want to get raped by the dealer by trading it. Those stacks are terrible though, miter cut would look much better.

I'd rock it too, if in better shape. That thing screams Cummins swap! at the very least a 440. The '71 340, (if that's what it really is) is worth a good amount since they only made that motor from late '67 to '73 and it was the preferred small block for any Mopar of that era. Get it the hell out of that truck, fast! Seems pretty steep for the amount of work that would need to be done, you'd break even on a part out, maybe. Much better buy here. Even-though 2wd http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979-Dodge-D300-Crew-Cab-Very-Good-Condition-/260633892332?cmd=ViewItem&pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3caefd95ec

It's B5 (5% bio) at Meijer. Sunoco on 33 North of Lancaster has B20. x100, mine wouldn't do more than 1/2 throttle after running just 2 tanks through it. Usually the same, but the benefit of have the system cleaned and much better lubricity than Ultra Low Sulfur fuel is tremendous. B5 is way better than even the best fuel additive on the market, in terms of lubrication value.

I still have it. But, I have been entertaining the thought of putting it back up for sale. Waiting to see what pricing on the 2011 trucks is going to be. The 2500HD Denali Duramax has been haunting my thoughts everyday.

Lots of fast diesels around. There's a low 10 second Duramax in Lancaster(Jeff Dean's), a few 11 second Cummins, and good amount of 12 second diesels from GM, Dodge, and Ford locally. Mine went 12.80@106, and I don't have anything but a tune, trans, and exhaust. Also, gets 20 mpg.