kirks5oh

you shooting for 13's in that beast?? i heard they're coming out with a stage 4 in 2010. comes with 10 extra badges and only costs $5k more than a stage 3.

got to admit i'm seriously considering trading in my GTO on one of these. 4 doors would be the main reason, and i like the styling a bit better. going to wait and see how things shake out with gm the next 3-4 months before we buy another car (s).

good to hear everything checked out ok.

make sure your oil does not smell like gas (read my post on page 1 on this). you should buy another frps and keep one in the glove box. once they pop, they just don't stop. and $80 is the going rate for these--no other way to get them cheaper.

good, then when i'm ready to buy the big-daddy 2.8 mammoth i should have no problem getting through

like dave said, kenne bell's customer service line is atrocious. the whole reason i didn't buy the 2.6 kenne bell blower was that i couldn't get any info/pricing from the fuckers who worked there, because i could not get through.

+ rep for working at roosters. i miss that place---awesome wings (donkey style, extra wet), dumpster fries, and the big burger ftw.

i have deleted the pprv on my car because i had the dreaded 'hesitation' between shifts issue. deleted the pprv, added the kb frps disc, and have never blown an frps (knock on wood). i had to pay $15 for mine---tiny washer with a hole in it. check your oil to make sure it doesn't smell like gas. when the frps blows, it can (not always) allow quite a bit of fuel into your crankcase, necessitating an oil change. most common inciting event of a blown frps??? ----a missed shift, where you over-rev the car.

you should run power steering. my car retains the reverse rotation water pump. i have a kit from latemodelrestoration.com that deletes the smog pump, and the a/c unit. you end up moving the power steering up where the a/c pump used to be. so you have the crank pulley, alternator, water pump, and power steering, with the tensioner. it fits perfectly. the kit costs $125, and comes with underdrive crank/alt/water pump pulleys, the 2 brackets to move the power steering pump, hardware for these 2 brackets, and the short belt. i'll take a pic tonight. kirk

welcome. nice to see another black cobra on the forum.

could be FRPS (some won't restart, some will run rough with a blown frps), could be the vacuum leak as stated above---hope its one of those two. if not, my vote goes for a compression test, and hope you didn't fry one of the pistons. what are your mods?? cooling mods??

the car pings when i go WOT, and a puff of white smoke comes out of the tailpipes for a split second. doesn't matter what the RPMS are--high or low--the car will clatter and ping at WOT.

not losing any coolant other than out of the expansion tank. the timing cover gaskets have been damp (why i'm going to change the timing cover gasket, and water pump while i'm there). the oil looks fine. the car runs hard other than the pinging--i don't hear anything that sounds like a blown head gasket---yet. only the #1 plug looked like the one pictured--the others looked fine other than 4 had the porceline under the electrode chipped--i wrote that off to the shitty gapping tool i used, sideloading the electrode and chipping the ceramic. i'll check the distributor cap tonight. i'm assuming the phasing is correct--i haven't changed anything other than dropping a new rotor on the distributor--only one way the rotor would fit on the distributor. i might pull the valve covers to check the rockers/springs after i take care of the water pump/etc.

tried some lucas octane booster and filled the other half of the gas tank with 93 octane--car still pinging, and coolant pressurized, but car did not run hot at all--ran less than midway on the temp guage. i'm going to change the fuel pump tonight, and the timing cover gasket/water pump while i'm there (gaskets are damp), and then take the car to a local shop later this week.

talk to the inspectors. i used D&G inspection--we stopped the inspection as soon as the pipes were leaking, and they gave me half off on the next inspection--but yes, it is money very well spent (the inspection)

we put in a bid on a foreclosed house in '03 contingent upon passing inspection. when we had the inspection, several of the pipes had burst (pipe feeding bathtub, and 2 under sink water lines). we bailed on the deal and never looked back. i asked our inspectors what they would do, and they both said "we could fix this problem ourselves--we would offer the bank $10-12k less, claiming that a professional job would be that much, fix it ourselves, and use the remaining $8-10k to upgrade the house"

mine was offered with a year's supply of hairspray and large combs?? wtf.

i you're looking for a temporary beater motor, latemodelrestoration.com sells budget short blocks for $600 i believe. non-forged internals, with a stock cam/block-- fyi they will not withstand much abuse, but if you're looking to 'just get by' for the summer it might work

i've also ordered one of these cars to pull my u-haul up to wisconsin this summer. i've heard camaro's traditionally have been excellent at pulling trailer (homes), etc. etc. LS motor has good torque, so i figure it should be able to pull my u-haul filled with all our shit.

going to change out the fuel pump, t-stat, and water pump tonight (timing cover gasket has been wet, and i know its about to go), as well as add octane booster and fill the rest of the tank up with 93 octane. if that doesn't cure the problem, i will probably just take it to a shop that does tons of carbed foxes--there are several in north tampa where i live

see GTO in sig. i run people off the road with my headlights alone.

first pic is from the passenger side, shows everything plugged off. the remaining vaccuum lines on this side are to the PCV and back to the temp sensor on the back of the intake manifold. http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/5323/s3500143.jpg this shot is from the driver's side, you can see the vaccuum advance line coming from the distributor, and then the other hose going to the master cylinder http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/79/s3500145.jpg

that pic is from when i first got the car. i've removed all the emissions crap, and fixed several vacuum leaks on the carb. the only vacuum tubes going to the carb now are from the master cylinder, the distributor, and the PCV (which was disconnected above at the time of that picture). every other vacuum connection has been blocked off--i'm going to take a picture right now. so i'm not sure how the secondaries open?? when the throttle is wide open creating enough vacuum to open them??

didn't get a chance to start the car tonight, but i bought some octane booster, and will pick up my fuel pump tomorrow. i pulled the plugs tonight--some of them had a bit of the porceline chipped off (i'm assuming its from my shitty gapping tool puting too much pressure on the electrode). the #1 plug had a white/gray residue on the tip pictured below. other than that the other plugs looked fine http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/1793/s3500136.jpg as far as checking the secondaries, what's the best way to do this? i'm assuming the primaries are labeled 1 below and secondaries 2?? with the car off, if i pull the cable, the primaries open and fuel is squirted into the primaries, but the secondaries stay shut. i'm assuming the car has to be running for the secondaries to open? http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/8092/s3500060.jpg

i don't know because i just bought the car recently. i'm going to add some octane booster, and then blip the throttle cable to see if the secondaries open.