spankis

The "learning" component really just eliminates the process of configuring on/off and temperature adjustment schedules based on your lifestyle. If WiFi and touchscreen are priorities, that's one thing, but a properly configured 7-day schedule capable thermostat will produce the same results. All that said, between nest and Honeywell, go with the Honeywell. I work for a large building controls company (which competes with Honeywell), but installed a Honeywell touchscreen for my parents. We don't currently make our own residential T-Stats, but will in the next couple months.

This might explain why I've heard so many TDI owners, even with factory non modified cars, report significantly better than rated mileage in reality.

I thought this explained what exactly VW did very well, guy on reddit said the following: "So the short answer is still quite long. They were caught cheating on NOx emissions primarily although all emissions are in a way connected. NOx is created when temperatures and pressures are very high during combustion. Sadly NOx emission is generally higher when your combustion is nice and hot and rapid, which gives higher efficiency (closer to the ideal thermodynamic cycle). So In general if you calibrate the engine with a combustion recipe that atomizes fuel quickly and mixes well youll get more NOx. There are couple of important trade-offs then. Low soot/good combustion = Higher NOx and Low fuel consumption = higher Nox. The EPA therefore defines "clean" as having BOTH low soot AND low NOx, and since those two things are hard to achieve together it takes a good bit of engineering, and in todays world some aftertreatment to achieve it. EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) Particulate filters Oxidation catalysts and SCR calalysts (using Urea as a reactant) all are ways of reducing these combustion products while trying to maintain decent fuel consumption But in VWs case what they did was teach the ECM to recognize when it was being tested. At that time it would switch to the "clean" map. Clean meaning that it meets EPA requirements for both NOx and soot. Then when the test is over (and potentially an OBD drive cycle) it would fall back to its primary driving map. On the driving map it would have been optimized for best fuel economy and performance. Optimized in this case refers to the fuel injection pressure and timing, and possibly EGR and Urea flow, parameters controlled by the ECM. Specifically earlier injection timing gives better power and efficiency but creates more NOx. NOx by the way is totally invisible and odorless. The end result is an engine that will pass an EPA engine emissions certification test, but then will recalibrate itself for driving or (ironically) for the EPA mpg test cycle (which is done in chassis without emissions monitoring). Thus the engineers get to circumvent the very difficult trade-off between NOx and efficiency. The car will produce a lot more NOx in normal driving, and have better fuel economy. Technically not meeting the intent of the emissions law but very hard to detect. If VW correct this via recall the car will be required to run on the "clean" calibration all the time. This will mean poorer fuel economy, I would be speculating to say by how much but VW wouldnt have bothered cheating if it wasnt a significant gain. It may even have implications on durability if certain parameters (like exhaust gas temps, turbocharger RPMs or oil life) are affected as they often are." I would agree that nobody will get it fixed. VW basically installed an automatic efilive style tune switching feature.

I don't disagree at all, and I'm all for a smaller government, but I hear a few Presidential candidates and other politicians suggesting the epa be abolished. I've not really heard it in the context of the river spill or emissions, but more to drill and mine in national parks, allow fracking on all publically owned land etc., etc. There likely need to be changes made certainly, but there needs to be regulation at some level. I think the epa has in some instances been assigned to oversee / regulate some activities and industries that would be better suited for other groups, perhaps at the state level. Emissions is a tough one though, as we all breathe the same air so regulation at the federal level probably does make sense, epa or not.

Mistakes are made. No organization is perfect... If anything this should highlight why what they do is so important. Getting rid of the epa and hoping everybody "self regulates" would not produce a better batting average. As for the VW situation, I doubt it will be the nail in the coffin for diesels as a whole. It sounds like specifically VW had issues meeting emissions criteria using only a particulate trap or DPF alone (without urea injection which is the standard now), after stricter regulations were forced. Most all current diesels have transitioned to using urea injection after treatment, even semis which adopted the technology almost 10 years ago I think, so there is definitely still a future. Also, I thought i read that it was only an issue in California, as in they cheated only on the stricter California emissions testing. I may have misread that though.

Car sold this morning. Might see it around Dublin now.

I would not buy refurbished, personally, given how much flat panel prices have come down. Also, standing in wal-mart or most other box stores you will not see much difference in 4k and 1080p (non 4k) units, because they are almost certainly supplying a 1080p or 720p signal to each display. There is only a small portion of input devices that support 4k content yet, though it's growing. At this point I wouldn't bother until its more mainstream.

Long story short my truck had an issue develop several months ago with the brake booster, which resulted in the brakes sticking badly when depressed (not releasing). I had a pretty adventurous time when they stuck on at around 55 merging from 70w to 315N. Rather than sitting on the shoulder, I limped the truck off the freeway at 10mph or so to Long Street with the brakes partially engaged. As you'd expect they got pretty warm in the quarter mile of crawling with the brakes on... The truck was towed to Dozzers and he fixed me up with a replacement hydroboost unit. Brakes work well since then, but the pads are now dusting way more heavily. Both the pads and rotors (65k mile factory units) have plenty of life left since I use the exhaust brake constantly, but I've got to do something as I'm deep cleaning my wheels weekly to keep the dust at bay. My question is did the pads get ruined or glazed over when overheated, or is it more likely damage to the rotor? I may get a chance to inspect a bit more this weekend, but I don't see any grooving or obvious surface damage to the rotor. There is some discoloration where it looks like the pad sat while hot.

Definitely, most marinas on the lake are closed down for now anyway, offering onshore reservice but very little in the way of lakeside services. Most have probably decided it's not worth risking prop and lower unit damage for the few Johnny Utahs out there still interested in stirring up the mud .

Boat sold today.

Sold.

Well damn guys, thanks. I've had a couple calls from younger dudes who don't seem to be car guys really, given the questions they ask. Would like to see it go to an enthusiast ideally, but oh well. I can understand it attracting the high school crowd though for sure.

Wtf is your work? You guys jackhammer operators or something?

Thanks for the kind words. I tried to price it reasonably. The market is flooded with non turbo cars that are beat to shit, and all the solid turbo cars are twice as much. We will see I suppose.

Bump again. Had several people flake out, and one West Virginia native offering a combination lowball cash and a Remington 870.

Pending Sale...

Stiffer springs, more robust frame, higher capacity trans/engine cooling, fuel tank large enough to go more than 150 miles between fuel stops, etc. etc. etc. I've grown up with travel trailers and the difference in a half ton and a 3/4 ton truck (or 3/4 ton suburban) towing an 8 or 10k trailer is HUUUUGE. Not to mention you're not tearing up your equipment operating at the very threshold of its rated capacity. Also, 12 hour trip with wife and 3 kids is a huge factor to consider. If you were going from Grove City to Deer Creek I'd say fuck it, roll the dice.

It is on craig's very own list: http://columbus.craigslist.org/boa/5187098601.html

On craigslist officially. http://columbus.craigslist.org/boa/5187067573.html

My parents towed a similarly overweight trailer with an 03 Suburban for several years, and it eventually killed the rear diff, followed by some damage to the cam from a bent pushrod around 10k miles later. It always pulled it, but spent a lot of time at 5k rpm and up getting up hills or up to speed. Also, your 7400 pound trailer weight is the dry weight I'm assuming, with full propane tanks but no water or food, clothes, or other gear? I personally wouldn't push it. Smaller trailer, or a bigger truck if it were me. Also, at that weight a weight distribution hitch should not be considered an option but a requirement.

More like it is his business lol. Don't the autos support more torque for the guys who tune these things? Or do I have that backwards?

Bump, going on craigslist tomorrow.

Bump for this weekend. I'll be putting these on craigslist tomorrow.

1993 Stealth ES - White - Non Turbo DOHC 3.0L V6, 5 spd Manual, 82k Miles, 4k on Engine Rebuild Location - Canal Winchester, Ohio I've debated it for several years now, but the time has come to sell my Stealth. I bought the car from a neighbor as a bone-stock 1993 Stealth ES in 2007 with 67,706 miles on it. I performed the 60k maintenance immediately, then drove it as stock for a little while. In late 2007 I made some changes to the car using my favorite factory body components from a variety of years and models of Stealth/3000gt. As seen in pictures the car is very unique, and is also completely de-badged with no identifying Dodge/Mitsubishi emblems. In 2009 at a little over 78,000 miles the car developed a low oil pressure issue, which was later attributed to heavy wear at the bearings (I have the complete bearing set). In September of 2009 the engine was completely rebuilt, as detailed below. The car has always ran great since, and I've only put around 4,000 miles on it since being rebuilt. It now has 82,446 miles, and I honestly thought I'd keep the car forever, but it's time to buy a house. Such is life I suppose. The car is truly in very good shape for its age and is very clean inside and out. It is very clean and solid underneath as well, as it has seen little winter driving in 22+ years. The paint is in good shape, but it does have a few minor chips and dings as you'd expect with a car this age. The most significant blemishes are several shallow creases along the top edge of the passenger front fender, which the white paint hides well from most angles. These were present on the car when I purchased it, and have never bothered me enough to warrant a repair. The car is mechanically extremely solid, with the only exception being the A/C compressor which does need replaced. I've identified the issue as a leak at the compressor itself. That aside, everything else on the car is in great shape. It leaks nothing, burns nothing, and drives very well. An album of recent pictures can be seen AT THIS LINK, but I have many more pictures showing much of the work done on the car, including the engine removal, rebuild, and installation. Also have the car on craigslist - show your friends http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/5185888958.html http://i.imgur.com/0dWw1NE.jpg http://i.imgur.com/EShkG8A.jpg http://i.imgur.com/2WumWvZ.jpg http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Stealth%202009/DSC_0290PP.jpg Details are as follows: - White 93 Stealth ES, DOHC, 5 speed manual - 82,446 miles - Power Windows, Power Locks, Cruise, - 1st Gen 3k Front Bumper, Rear Bumper, Side skirts (matching 1st Gen 3k fender/wheel-well liners, filled front emblem, color-matched "moustache") - 1st Gen 3k Projector Fog Lights (HID upgraded) - '99 3k Rear Garnish - Stealth R/T Sail Panels - Windows Tinted 35% Rear and Rear Sides, 45% Front Sides - Charcoal Lower, Tan Upper Interior - Charcoal + Tan Custom 2-tone Leather Interior - Pioneer Premier DEH-P800PRS reference class CD Headunit (Extremely Nice) - Polk Component Front Speakers, Infinity Rear speakers, Soundstream 4-channel amp - Megan Coilovers, Addco Rear sway bar, Cusco Rear Strut Tower Brace, Front Strut Tower Brace - IPS and Maximal Performance Adjustable Rear Control Arms - 18 x 9 Konig Stampede Wheels, 275/35/18 Kumho Ecsta Tires (Very good tread, less than 10k miles) - 3SX Stainless Brake Lines, Brembo Blank Rotors, Hawk HPS pads - 3SX Lightweight Crank Pulley (stock size) - K&N Intake Filter Kit, Polished Intake - EK2 Downpipe, Mandrel Bent Downpipe-back Exhaust (Muffler, Resonator, Dual Stainless Tips) - MSD Plug Wires, New Coil Pack in August of 2014 - Fuel Injectors Rebuilt and flow-tested by Evolution Injection in September of 2014 Engine Details (Rebuilt in Fall of 2009 at ~ 78,000 miles) - New ERS .020 Overbore Pistons - Clevite Bearings, Hastings/Perfect Circle Rings - New Mitsubishi Full Gasket/Overhaul Kit - New Mitsubishi 3rd gen "Big Bore" Lifters - New Mitsubishi Oil Pump - New Mitsubishi Water Pump, Gasket and O-ring - New Mitsubishi Timing Belt, Hydraulic Tensioner, Tensioner Pulley, Idler Pulley - ERS / Columbus Col-Weld performed - Clean, Bore/Hone, Crank Resurface, Valve Job - Engine/removal re-installation done by Rob Hand - At time of rebuild - New Upper + Lower Radiator Hoses, Fuel Filter, Clutch Master Cylinder I'm sure there are other things I'm forgetting , but I have a folder of receipts for most all the work I've completed, as well as maintenance records dating back to 1996 from the previous owner. Since the rebuild the car has had only Valvoline conventional oil and Purolator PureOne oil filters. Some of the more recent maintenance items include: -New Coil Pack and Rebuilt +Flow-Tested Fuel Injectors in fall of 2014 -New Duralast Gold Battery with 60 month warranty in April 2014 The car will include the factory spare tire and jack, the original 16" wheels and tires, all-weather floor mats (in addition to the factory carpet mats), and a fitted Wolf car cover. Several other spare parts and maintenance items will be included also. The car is located in Canal Winchester, Ohio. Please feel free to PM me with any questions, or to provide contact info - I'm happy to discuss over phone/text/email. Asking $6,000 obo Thanks for looking! -Scott

I PM'd you back. I never heard anything bad about this car at all, he just doesn't keep cars more than a couple years. I remember him being surprised at how cheap he picked it up for himself, just given the depreciation. He is a totally honest guy though. My dad and him have bought and sold a few cars over the years too.