spankis

Buddy gets a lot of these calls, and he says they stopped after he started saying "I no longer own that vehicle" to every one that called.

Saw dis here article dis mornin: http://jalopnik.com/what-happens-when-you-put-a-v8-in-a-nissan-350z-1704308397

I bought a bag of 200 of these on eBay a while back. I've always known them as doublers or piggy backs . We use them at work occasionally too, and if your terminations are in tight quarters its wise to throw some heat shrink around the non-contact portions of the spade. They don't make an insulated one that I've seen.

If it "needs recharged" then it has a leak that needs resolved .

This is straight copied from reddit, but it's very entertaining. Ray Jones Jr. highlights , for anybody whose not a serious boxing fan: https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=258&v=KPU5qFJAJGg

Gone. Mods please lock

My current company vehicle is a 2011 escape hybrid (older square body style), and as our leases on them run out our guys are moving to these new ones. I've honestly had few issues with my older one in its 70k miles. I believe our new ones are the weaker 1.6 ecoboost though, and the mid level SE or whatever. Agreed though, not at all bad for work.

It is just a big flat piece of mirror glass, no beveled edges or anything.

DakotaRT has dibs for now. I believe he's trying to get it tonight. I will let you know otherwise.

Parents have a large piece of mirror glass they would like to get rid of. It has no frame, just the glass, and was previously wall hung. Let me know if you're interested and I'll put you in contact with my Dad. Thanks

To be honest I'm not sure in terms of a part number. After significant time diagnosing it Taylor managed to at least get it closed to where it seals, but determined that a complete replacement is the fix. I'll see if I can dig up their estimate from way back.

I would like a quote on replacing a sunroof on an 07 Cobalt. Taylor in Lancaster told the GF $700ish if I recall. Thanks!

You haven't experienced bad eastside traffic until you travel 33 at rush hour. When I buy a house it will not be dependent on 33 as a main artery into Columbus.

This picture should not preface your signature. Op may disagree :gabe:

Not sure on sirens, but the evacuation route signs have been up for a year or more, well before the latest events. Right now it's being kept at low winter pool level I guess, which really limits boat traffic given it's already a shallow lake. No word on draining it, but really any repair/maintenance/replacement plan will require near complete draining. I saw on OGF some guys were suggesting draining the lake, dredging it to add depth, and selling the super rich pudding-y bottom mud as fertilizer to fund the repairs. The bottom is very high in peat in many areas, so it's very fertile or whatever. Issue I see is that adding much depth adds lots of pressure to contain, so not only would the dam need fixed or replaced but also likely expanded significantly.

A friend at work has suggested arrow radiator to me several times, though I haven't had a need for them yet.

I believe the NV (4500 and 5600s) were used in dodge trucks for years also. Not sure on bellhousing interchangeablity, but it might expand your options.

Few things: The 10tv video report linked in the OP is dumb. What the reporter is standing in front of and referring to as the dam is in reality the hydraulic spillway just east of Pizza Cottage on 79. The spillway itself is intact and perfectly fine, it is simply located within the 4 mile long earthen dam (built into it), which is what is actually failing. The earthen dam itself stretches effectively from the Liebs Island boat ramp at Millersport east around to the North Bank boat ramp off 79. All other shores of the Lake are naturally higher than water level, or actually slope down to the lake. If you look closely when you drive down 79, nearly all of the homes are built into a slope about a 1.5 stories tall - that slope is the dam itself. THAT is what is deteriorating, very slowly buckling and pushing back against the pressure of the lake. In a multitude of places there is significant seepage of lakewater through the slope, which means that the dam is slowly becoming less dirt and more mud, less solid and more goo. Goo obviously doesn't make good dam material, and the potential for an acute mudslide-type rupture is what is being warned against. My grandparents live on the earthen dam (between the Yacht Club and the boat ramp), in a home my grandpa gutted and completely remodeled in the 80s. My grandpa also happens to be the zoning inspector for the village of buckeye lake, so I've been hearing bits and pieces about the issue for months. He deals with issuing permits for what can and cannot be built within the village, including on the lakefront and in the dam. The situation really is crazy, and it will be very interesting to hear what occurs. For those that aren't aware though, all the homes built into North bank have a sidewalk that runs in front of them between the house and the water, my grandpas included. The state actually owns the land between the each house and the lake itself, which varies between 8 and 20 feet of "easement" as you travel down North Bank. A realistic scenario would be to drain the lake (or at least keep the level low) and make repairs to the steel wall that reinforces the lake against the water. It would be a messy process and would interfere with many many docks, decks, flowerbeds, and sidewalks, but oh well I suppose. This picture shows the area that makes up the dam: http://cmsimg.newarkadvocate.com/apps/pbcsi.dll/bilde?Site=BF&Date=20120914&Category=NEWS01&ArtNo=209140301&Ref=AR&MaxW=640&Border=0&New-structure-planned-replace-decaying-Buckeye-Lake-dam Its from this article, from 2012... http://www.newarkadvocate.com/article/20120914/NEWS01/209140301/

Its pretty but that front overhang is a little much. Likely to meet pedestrian collision standards? Still neato.

I'm currently due for an upgrade through Verizon, on an unlimited data corporate plan (no option outside of VZW). Currently using an S4 that I'm mostly happy with, but I'll soon be deciding between an S6 variant or the HTC M9. HTC is keeping the SD card, but also still has a non-replaceable battery. This seems to be kept somewhat updated and is handy: comparison chart Last I heard was early April carrier release correct? I know there was a "show release" over the weekend, but neither is yet available for purchase. Nexus ever coming to Verizon?

I also made a thread on caraudio.com, but wanted to run it by here also. I've done a bunch of reading this weekend. Here is what I'm considering: HU: Pioneer DEHX9600BHS Front Doors via 6x9-6.5 adapter: JBL P660C (2ohm) Rear 5.25: Alpine SPS-510 (4ohm) Amp: Blaupunkt EMA 455 (600w, 2 ohm stable) Seem reasonable? Are the rear 5.25s a waste? If so, I'd consider a different 6.5 and amp most likely. Not an issue running 2 ohm fronts and 4 ohm rears to a 2 ohm stable 4-channel correct?

Several other people have suggested doing 6.5 components alone as well actually. Assuming I'm amping them with adequate power, are there 6.5s that can truly hang with the low end of a 6x9? Any suggestions on a capable component 6.5? I used Polk 6.5 components in my Stealth and was really happy with them honestly, but I was using a separate pair of 6x9s to support the low end, as they were not real bassy.

Thanks for the replies. For what its worth I listen to literally everything, generally excluding rap but occasionally including dub step type stuff. I'm leaning more toward Polk 6x9 DB's most likely in the doors, but still torn between keeping the rear 5.25 location active with an aftermarket pair or abandoning them in favor of a 3.5" pair in the dash location. There are very few 6x9 component sets that I've come across, or that might an option too. The rear speakers are in a bad spot though, low on the back wall about waist height when sitting, but are a larger cone than a 3.5. I understand the dash locations are way better in terms of "imaging" but will add no bass, and I may even want bass blockers on them if i run them off the head unit correct?

I've never seen a lot of car stereo discussion on here, but I figure there has to be a few knowledgeable people around. I'm using a bit of my tax return to replace the shit stereo in my truck, and I'm very open to opinions. Currently: -Factory 4-speaker Non-Infinity Stereo (no factory amplifier to bypass) -Factory 5 1/4" Speakers in rear of cab -Factory 6x9" Speakers in Front doors -NO 3.5" Speakers in dash (mounting buckets exist for factory uprade stereo, but no factory speaker wires to dash) Planned: -Replace factory headunit with aftermarket (likely Pioneer) -Remove factory door speakers and factory speakers in rear of cab, replace with some combination of 4 new speakers (size and location to be determined) Here's where I need advice.... I could replace the factory 6x9s in the front door with better 6x9s, and replace the rear 5 1/4" with an upgraded 5 1/4". Also, instead of 6x9s, I could also install component 6.5s in the front doors with an adapter ring/spacer. A third option could include ditching the rear cab speakers altogether, and wiring quality 3.5" speakers in the dash locations. I'm up for adding a small 4 channel amp under the seat or behind the dash if its worth doing. I have no plans to add a sub at this time, and would likely only do a slim 8 or 10" down the road. Obviously I'll be missing the low lows without a sub, but what combination of 4 speakers will give me a the most well-rounded, full range system without enormous gaps in frequency? Thanks in advance.

Came across this on craigslist: http://cleveland.craigslist.org/hvo/4882681074.html Supposedly has a good running Cummins 8.3L, and the truck itself may have some handy components left on it to go toward your project. From what I understand the 8.3 is both taller and longer than a 5.9 cummins, but is mechanically very very similar. Gobs of torque, and I believe can be mounted to standard 5.9 bellhousings ie 727, 48re, and many manual combinations. There are a handful of guys who have squeezed these into pickups