brent1976

This looks awesome, but it won’t be cheap. https://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars/future-cars/a19503796/cadillac-ct6-v-sport-550-hp-twin-turbo-v8-and-all-wheel-drive/

http://diyautorepairshops.com/index.php Here’s what they have here in Denver. I drove past it working the other day and it made me think of CR since this has been a running topic for years. Then I check in and here it is again.

It’s the head unit making the speaker not work. Just get a cheap head unit a dash mount kit and a conversion harness. It will take you about half an hour to put in.

You will need different springs cables and the drums the cables wrap around. You can use your vertical tracks but the horizontal tracks need replaced to highlift with an extra piece to extend the vertical pieces up. You would be better off calling a pro. If they know what they're doing they can get it really close to the ceiling. You will need a side mount operator, a Liftmaster 8500 is a residential side mount that works perfectly in your situation.

I've wondered since they started making the fords out of aluminum how the cab and bed mounts and everywhere else the aluminum bolts to steel will hold up. I work on all kinds of doors and some are aluminum and where aluminum bolts to steel the aluminum turns into a white crust and pretty much falls apart after a couple of years. Where it's wet and dirty it happens pretty fast but even when it's dry and clean conditions it still starts happening almost immediately. My new service truck is a '17 F250 and I plan on climbing under it every once in a while to check out whether it happens or not. Maybe they treat it with something that stops it from happening, but if they don't the cabs and beds will start falling off after a couple of years.

I had to go back because the parts came in for that job. They're sitting in the parking lot of pikes peak international speedway. The lot is about 1/4 full of just VWs. The track holds 50k people. There are way more than I thought there were and there are 4 new rows of them since Monday.

The weather has been amazing. We've been hiking every weekend since we've been here. The mountain roads are awesome to go for a drive too. We love it so far. There are at least 5 different C&C I've found in Denver Boulder Golden and the surrounding areas. I went to one a couple weeks ago with at least 250 cars. I see all kinds of cool cars all around town. Lots of AMG and M cars.

I check in on CR every once in a while. I remembered the guy that stripped his tdi before he turned it in people were talking about on here. I figured some would be interested to see this. I wasn't happy at work and the company my wife works for bought some stores out here and offered her the area manager job. I found a job at a great company before we moved out. It was perfect timing for us so we took it.

At the beginning of this year we moved to Denver. I was driving to do a service call down past Pueblo and saw this back off of the road. I'm guessing there's more than 1000 of them with enough lot to park at least 5 times as many. http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s316/brent1976_photos/Mobile%20Uploads/1F04B37D-8525-4D66-A56D-B0A4388C3CCA_zpshbzx7fp1.jpg

I agree. Any stock intake with any 6.0 heads will make 600hp with boost. Go the cheaper route unless you plan on going for way bigger power later.

Tell him to get on performancetrucks.net. It's the best forum for LS trucks. It won't happen just bolting on a turbo kit, but with all of the right mods it is possible. The one that sticks out in my head the most has foose04 as a screen name. He DDed his truck for years with a 9 second truck. I think it had a t-56 too.

I put one of these together for a friend, then he tried to get it adjusted after I left. I figured it out when I went back it was sticking the same way. Instead of tightening the loose one, you need to loosen all of the other ones, because the tight one is probably out of adjustment.

I usually go to Autozone. There are only 2 guys left that don't hassle me now, but they switch back and forth between stores. My truck is a frankenstein. I have to pick and choose what vehicles the parts come from, sometimes on the same trip, so most aren't help at all, or fight me the whole time telling me over and over how GM never mad a truck like mine, so nothing I'm buying will fit on my truck. I've made quite a few go outside, and seeing a turbo blows their minds. Then they kind of get it, but most ask if I put a diesel in since it has a turbo. Orielys and Advanced are useless in Zanesville.

I wonder if all of the other neighbors are pissed that he tied into their fences too. If he just went ahead and did it to yours after you telling him no, maybe he did it to everyone else's too. Ask around to the other neighbors and see if their pissed. You might get some backup when you go to bitch. Also, I would tell him he at least needs his own end and gate posts. If his gate makes your corner post loose, it's a major pain to pull a post if it's in concrete.

I'm with Steve-o. The Harley trucks are a little more comfortable and are cc. Change the blower pulley and a tune and then they run pretty good. My buddy has one that's stock and it's just a little bit faster than my h/c 6.0l regular cab Sierra.

I got mine the other day. I saw this and remembered the old thread, but didn't remember if I signed up. Apparently I did. I have moved, but still own the other house that I lived in for 18 years, for now.

I went through 3 FLT level 7 4L65e in 1 1/2 years before I put the turbo on my gray truck at around 360 whp. It only ran 14.0 as it was. With the 4L80e and circle-d tcc it made 630whp/650wtq it went 11.6, and I dd it for almost 7 years/80k miles without a problem. Now it's in my newer truck still without a problem. F body's will take some power but trucks are to heavy for the 60 with any power.

My wife is on her fourth legacy. She drives them pretty much all highway from Zanesville to Columbus every day. We've only had to do 2 things to any of them besides tires and oil changes. On her second one the ac drain got plugged up inside the cab and got the carpet wet. Byers fixed it and cleaned the wet carpet. This last one needed new wheel bearings a couple of weeks ago. I've never seen the mileage be under 29mpg and she drives her cars pretty hard, it's either gas or brakes. We'll probably be picking up her fifth one some time this year, so I would recommend a legacy to anyone looking for a reliable dd.

6L/80e is pretty much bullet proof. Then if you want to boost it down the road you can make really good power without having to do anything more. Maybe find a decent cam to throw in it before you put the engine in. Headers IMO make it too loud in the cab, I would do a nice cat back.

My truck is like your new truck, until you punch it. If you're on it hard it clunks.

Apparently you don't remember. The shift fork is on the input side of the transfer case. You know that you don't win a debate by how much you type, right?

Technically, it's got a chain in it, and there is no viscous coupler like an awd. I replaced the chain when I took it apart to put in the input for an 80e and replace the pump wear clip with a plate. I think it engages the front diff, and engages the transfer case when the wheels speed sensors detect slip. It has 4wd auto, 2wd, 4wd high, and 4wd low. It makes a bang in 4wd auto when you nail it hard because it's trying to engage the transfer case under a hard load. It was my old truck that ran the 116 trap. It had a manual floor shift transfer case that is the same as some of the old transfer cases from the 80's. My new truck has a push button, which is the exact same transfer case as my old one, except it shifts with an actuator instead of the floor shift.

Buy a Silverado or suburban with auto 4wd. It kicks in so fast you can't tell it's not in 4wd and my truck seems to do pretty well with non winter tires. If it gets too bad I push the 4wd button and go. A lot of people run 4wd all the way down the track in 10 second trucks so I don't know why you can't drive at highway speed. I trapped 116 in 4wd and I will be running way faster this summer with no worries.

If replacing the bulbs doesn't make it any better, extend the antenna. The opener head has a small piece of wire hanging down from it(the antenna). Connect another piece of small wire to that and run it to the header above the spring, down the header behind the spring. Then put the door up and take a small screwdriver to pull the trim down enough to poke the wire outside a couple of inches. I've had openers that won't open from the outside with the door down at all, work from a pretty good distance by doing this. It has always fixed the problem of bad transmitter range. Metal street signs in a garage, for some reason, cause big problems sometimes too.

Unhook the door from the opener and try it by hand now. Then after you insulate the door try it again. If it's heavy to pick up then it needs adjusted, if it's not it will be fine. The styrofoam kit will be fine. It will probably make your door go from R-1 to R-8. Insulating your doors will make the biggest difference of all of the things you've listed. That's 175-200 sq. ft of uninsulated area. Your garage door opener will be fine. All AC motor powered garage door openers are 1/3 hp. The only difference between a 1/3hp unit and a 3/4 hp is the capacitor that starts the motor spinning. It's only 3/4 hp for about 1/2 a second. DC powered motor units are actually what they are rated the entire time.