Richard Cranium

Just going to throw out an idea/recommendation. If you're going to have a battery charging station/area. When you are wiring it I would wire in some sort of timer into the circuit, so you can put a battery on to charge, set the timer for an hour maybe, then walk away. I'm planning on modifying my shop to do that as well. One of my neighbors had a 16x20 wood shop behind his house that burned to the ground earlier this week. The fire marshal is pretty sure it was the battery chargers that started the fire. My chargers are currently unplugged, but I know eventually I'll slip back into my bad habits of leaving a battery on the charge and walking away. The fire marshal said he's been investigating a lot of fires lately and the battery/chargers are the source.

Watching the feed right now.

https://egadefense.com/ EGA Defense near London, OH. I have not been here yet, but I believe they have a 200 yard range. Rayner's has steel at 1,000 yards. Thunder Valley I'm told has steel out to a mile. Fun to shoot that far, but not sure it's worth the travel time to sight in an AR. I have access to a range near West Jeff that is out to 100 yards.

Leveling the bed is an art form. It takes practice to get good at it, and it's worth learning to do well. Once it is level it won't stay that way, so check it often. Any time you're doing a large print, or if it's been a while since you used the printer it's a good time to check the level.

I'm still using a HEAVILY modified Anet A8. There isn't much left of the original printer though, so I probably shouldn't be calling it an A8 any more. I used to buy filament from Microcenter, but they changed their supplier at least once while I was buying there and it was giving me fits. My go to filament now is Hatchbox for PLA and Monoprice for PLA+ when I want a stronger part. I need to stop by this weekend anyhow and grab something out of the trailer, I'll bring you some to play with. I use CURA for slicing as well and download most of what I print from Thingiverse.

I had him do some repair to my F250 a while back. He did great work.

What are the dimensions on the drawers? How many? I bet myself or some of the other carpenters on here have scrap plywood that we could throw something together better than what you could fix up with the old ones.

Looks like they reran the attempt. https://www.sscnorthamerica.com/news/racelogic-certifies-ssc-tuatara-speed

Didn't know myself, so I had to look it up. Think this explains it pretty clearly. Interesting. https://www.bannersociety.com/2020/5/13/21257660/ncaa-football-2014-ea-sports-video-game-ebay-resale-prices

I appreciate all the feedback. Cleveland is a little further than I wanted to travel for simple machine work. If I was doing something LS specific and complex then I would in a heart beat, but it's a bit of a trip for the simple work I think this needs. I reached out to Randy's and I'll see what they have to say. I'm going to tear down the heads myself and get them ready for new springs and valve seals. Should I hot tank the castings, or just run them through the dish washer? Just kidding, I'll probably run them through the dish washer since we're getting ready for a kitchen remodel and the current dish washer will be going away. Although it won't be the first set of heads to go through this dishwasher.

Filler neck would be a problem. Doubt he wants to cut a hole in the floor and run the gas fill nozzle inside the RV. If it was a metal tank, then maybe weld on a large bung on the side to connect the filler neck to.

Who are people using these days? I need some simple work done I assume any shop can handle. Cam bearings in an LQ4, check out a set of used LS3 heads I picked up, that kind of thing. Parts will be hot tanked and clean when taken to the shop. Also, does anyone know anything about Sheets Automotive Machine Shop on West Broad near Alton? I've seen their sign out there for years, but I've never heard of anyone using them. It would certainly be convenient for me.

Found a set! If anyone else is looking the guy had a couple of other sets. He has a listing on Craigslist. $450 for straight takeoffs, $650 back from the machine shop, shaved .020, hot tanked, and new valve seals. Seems like a decent guy. Rueben is his name, has a Red G8.

I use a weight distribution hitch for my trailer and I recommend them. Setting them up can be a little tricky. There are youtube videos you can watch to figure out tongue height and the amount of tension to put on them. The interesting thing I remember from the videos was they were measuring the gap between the wheel and fender on the front. As the ass end drops the nose goes up and that's what they were using to set up the weight distribution hitch. I don't use a swaybar, although when towing with my wifes old tundra I wish I did have one. The old 24' trailer would wag the dog pretty hard over about 55 or 60. As for setting up the brake controller I just drive normal and tweak it up or down until the braking of the truck feels normal. Make sure to figure out how the emergecy braking works. Borrowed a friends truck one time and saw a weird little lever on the controller. That trip a guy cut me off on 270 and hit his brakes. No way I could have gotten stopped in time without pushing that lever over and using the trailer to slow down the truck. My Teconsha has multiple settings so you can choose which trailer you're towing. I keep telling myself to set it up with 2 profiles for when my trailer is empty vs full.

Yeah, Duff here on CR is the name that normally pops up for HVAC work.

I have some friends who were talking about a truck a while back. I'll check with them.

Well, in all fairness I'm a dick head.

It's not that he "might do something". He done did something.

Gotta admit, I read Tax too.

The question is whether you like driving, on a track. The physics are unreal. This isn't really a video game, more of a simulation. Try driving it like you do in a Need for Speed game and you'll hate it because you'll be off track and in the wall all the time.

What? $14,000 for the Vin and $1000 for the rest?

I haven't in a little while. Have just spent time on practice. I haven't done a full setup with my wheels and pedals though, so it's a little uncomfortable right now with my desk. I'd use a larger monitor than a laptop, maybe pipe it onto a TV. Or if you have the video horsepower try running it on VR. I'll be getting back into it shortly.

While I do think remote braking is a great idea, and I do believe it is required for flat towing in some states be careful, I have heard horror stories from mechanics about improperly configured remote brakes. If they are set too high then the tow vehicle tries to stop the RV and itself. If it's just a little bit that's probably not a problem. If you get it higher than that then you stand a chance of arriving at your campground and finding out you killed the brakes on the Jeep. I think it was a tech at Saturn that warned me about it. He had a huge diesel pusher roll in and the brakes on the tow vehicle were completely toast. I guess it depends on whether you think the brakes on the RV are enough to handle it's own weight plus the Jeep in the mountains.

Merry Christmas!