Xyster101

Place near me for rent. Duplex 3 bedroom with garage for $750 in Dublin behind Dick's

Good way to warp rotors or stretch studs. I would go with the stock torque settings for the truck. The torque settings are based off the strength and stretching characteristics of the studs. Usually there will not be damage if you do over torque them a little.

According to most manuals you should tighten the filter until the gasket touches then do 3/4 turn more. You should never use a wrench to tighten the filter. You can also buy the oil filter wrench that fits perfectly on your oil filter. Never have to worry about crushing your filter then. Get one here!

Welcome Randy. Your car is slow! j/k The story is: Joe bought my '03 SV650 off me. He drove that for 6 months. Then he found your '93 turbo cheap at $3,500. He bought that red turbo and sold off my bike. Then 3 months later you bought the '93 turbo off Joe. It is a great car and almost stock. For Mid Ohio you don't need or really want coil overs. They will add a whole new dimension to racing at a track. You should concentrate on being smooth, heel/toe shifting and being comfortable in the car. Change things like air pressure, camber and tires before you go getting suspension that allows for that much manipulation. Personally annd you need is DOT 4 fluid in the car for the first track day and keep your boost turned down to stock.

Anyone here doing the NASA Beaver Run track weekend June 26/27? I will be heading up there along with Okemi for a great time!

Good looking rides. That black one is sick, what psi is it running? What wheels are on the white one? It looks like the stock rims off my MR2.

That was sweet

Thanks for the advice guys. Some areas to read over. Good information.

Short story. I took the car to the dyno last Saturday and got some ugly numbers for each pull: 15psi at 169 hp and 8.7 AFR 18psi at 202 hp and 10 AFR 11psi at 156 hp and 9.5 AFR The car is a Toyota '91 MR2 Turbo with a 2.0 engine (3SGTE) with the following simple bolt ons: 3" ATS DP 2.75" ATS B-pipe Upgraded Inter Cooler Aftermarket Air Filter Manual Boost Controller Still running stock injectors, stock ECU, stock fuel pump, and stock turbo (CT26). Since the dyno day I have done a compression check (~135psi on all 4), check plugs (little black, but it is rich), checked Air Flow Meter (it is not a MAS) according to the Toyota Service Manual, it is ok. Did a leak test on my turbo hoses (held 20psi for an hour). Checked timing, it was ~12.5 (stock is 10). It has a new cap and rotor. The OEM plug wires are a year old ( <5,000 miles). It pulls -19psi for a vacuum while cruising on the high way. My question is: What is the best way to fix this for around $500? I don't plan on getting a bigger turbo. I like the power the car has now. I do a lot of track days and I want it reliable. I don't drive the street much. Possible solutions people have mentioned from hours of searching here: getting an APEXi S-AFC. Someone said they would sell me a Greddy E-manage Blue Box for $300 with a MAP sensor Opening the AFM and adjusting the tension on the spring while on the dyno to fool the stock ECU Getting a stand alone ecu, but really out of my budget. Could there be other reasons why I have low numbers? Maybe engine knock? I know I have a strange car here, and not many people are familiar with this engine. I was hoping for some ideas on what to do next since I have never tuned an engine. I will take it somewhere to be done, I just want to know what it needs so I can understand what I need to have done. Also if someone knows a place to do this, offer it up. I have been to Performance Theory Motorsports off Cleveland Ave for other things, Nate is good there. Brian at Dyno Tune said he could do it, but he needed something to tune (like a ECU, fuel pressure regulator, or piggy back system). My stock ECU can't be reprogrammed. Is there engine knock in this dyno chart? Does it look ok except for the crazy rich fuel reading? Can a dirty injector cause it to run rich because the gas does not atomize as much? Dyno: http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/dyno.jpg

That blows! They couldn't just beat it with a hammer and a rod to break it off? I had some stuck on my car and they just broke it off and I needed to get a new stud and nut.

looks like pvc pipe. That is pretty creative, but a lot of time for something silly.

I drive it

Tons of pictures here http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80940

Yeah, he was putting down 112 to the wheels. I think stock those cars are only like 135 or something. Here are some videos of the MR2s My pull running super rich at 8.5 a/f: ~200whp, ~280ftlbs wtq @ 18psi Friend Steve best pull: Video ~260whp, ~270ftlbs wtq @ 17-18psi 80's MR2 best pull: ~112whp, 93ftlbs Thanks Brian for having us there! It was a good time.

It was a good time at the dyno also. Lot of people went to that. My car ran like shit at 202hp and 8.5 air/fuel! Okemi M3 did 210hp. http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/IMG_1076.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/IMG_1067.jpg

http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/PICT0027.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/PICT0032.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/PICT0033.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/PICT0036.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/PICT0037.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/PICT0038.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/PICT0039.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/PICT0040.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/PICT0041.jpg

Here are some of mine shot with a Go Pro which is more for in car video: http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/PICT0003.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/PICT0005.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/PICT0007.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/PICT0011.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/PICT0015.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/PICT0025.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/mr2/dyno/PICT0026.jpg

Be there at 9 with Ben (Okemi)

You can do this. It is not the best way, but it will work. The other option as already mentioned is to put a junction box in. Junction boxes are legal if closed up and have wire nuts on them. I am am not an expert, but I would think the reason you can't run 2 wires off the same breaker is one wire could come off, they could shift after your tighten the clamp causing the screw to be loose, or something similar. If you have room, spend the $15 and put a different breaker in.

looks good

+1 to WD40 and fingernail -1 for iron, scary!

Wow, that is a lot of work to bring that back. What did you have to do to it? Looks like some ricer kid got a hold of it before you. Did a great job, welcome.

Call Dave the head guy. What about talking to Clifton.

http://www.adamdaley.com/max/pictures/430_soy.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/pictures/492_locked.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/pictures/634_carbodywork.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/pictures/882_main.jpg http://www.adamdaley.com/max/pictures/812_sox.jpg

That was a waste. He is just listing knock off Chinese parts as real.