Geeesammy

I've got it laid out on a drawing in paint and have a pretty good idea of what fittings I'll need but I know once I get to it something won't pan out as I wanted. Turns out Summit doesn't really have anything in -10 that will work for me. Not that I see at least.

Looking for some advice from those well versed in E85 fuel system setups and have built one on their car or have had a large hand in doing so on another persons car. Hopefully this can be a thread on down the line for others doing something similar. My main concern is the ethanol breaking down the rubber on normal hose you'd pick up. All hoses I've seen around on Summit and other sites say they are compatible with most Alcohol based fuels. This weekend I'm going to start piecing together the fuel system for my car. I need it to be 800 wheel capable on E85, I will not be making that within the next year, but I want it all in place so I don't have to do it all again. As of now I have my tank with a single -10 on the sump and the return as a -6 going through a bulkhead fitting that has been shoehorned onto the stock hanger. My options are as follows. 1. I was thinking lately to run the Jegs' Pro-Flo Extreme series hose, which is SAE 30 R9 certified and accepted by NHRA. I liked this idea since while I'm building it I can just run down to Jegs and grab the fittings as I need them as well as the hose. I liked this until I saw the $10 a foot price tag. I know fuel hose would be one thing not to cheap out on, but $10 a foot is a little more than I'd like to spend. I don't mind spending that at all, but if a more economical option is available that will yield the same results I'll use that. 2. PTFE hose, but this idea is kind of a turn away as I can't really run down to Jegs and get the proper fittings or more hose if something goes wrong. Not to mention the fittings are a huge PITA to deal with. I like the fact that this stuff is pretty much guaranteed to work with ethanol and the site I've sourced it from is very reasonable on pricing, and friends have used them and never had an issue. 3. Normal cheaper AN hose and kind of risk it (at least in my eyes). I talked with Dyno Brian about his setup on his two fox bodys (which for some reason unbeknownst to me sit all the damn time) which run on ethanol and make quite a bit of power and on both he used normal stuff and never has run into an issue. I'm hoping a few of you guys with high HP builds on corn are willing to chime in and give me some pointers/mistakes not to make on this. Thanks in advance.

So you've got a fan club now? Can I be the president? I'll only ask for a measly salary of low six figures. Should be nothing to a Mk4 owner

I love that fire picture for some reason. Driver get out okay and car didn't melt down?

What I thought when I read this. The number one thing that sticks with me from Joe's class is to never lose control of your firearm...I'm sure this was hounded into him at some point as well. He is a lucky guy.

I didn't search for a combination of the deputy's name and the dumbass's name. Guess I forgot Fubar is a potato.

This time he done goofed bad. http://www.chillicothegazette.com/story/news/local/2015/05/09/deputy-assaulted-attempting-duty-arrest/27063651/

Obviously you don't know about manual valve body's.

Looks a lil like you did a lil bit to the lil car

Used this in high school and college, in great condition, new batteries. Has some programs on it I think, if you have a kid entering Junior or Senior year odds are they will need this. New they are around $100 Identical to this. http://www.amazon.com/Texas-Instruments-TI-84-Graphing-Calculator/dp/B0001EMM0G $50 picked up in Powell or Dublin.

They are reliable if you exclude the CVT. If you plan on keeping it change the CVT Fluid at 30k instead of 60k. 45k would even be a good compromise. At 60k you'll need rear pads replaced and rotors turned as well as a belt and filters, 80k for front pads and rotor replacement. Be sure to do the 15/30/45/60k services. They can save you a little money on down the line. Most Altimas like having fresh cabin air filters in them or they can cook the blower motor or resistor. If they are still using the Goodyear tires (forget which model, maybe the Eagle RS-A's?) for 2015 Models plan on replacing those around 50k. They wear like shit and very quickly. Camber bolts and toe bolts in the rear subframe will seize in 5 years or so. I'd opt for the V6 model honestly. Fuel economy will be worse but the 4 cylinder is almost dangerous when you go to merge on the freeway. I know it sounds like a lot but they are all typical wear items any car would need. 85% of the work I did when I was a Nissan Tech was all warranty, recall or maintenance. 2015 did get a slight revision in the Valve body which helps the CVT's last longer. The brake pad mileages are pretty close to those. All altimas I saw had somewhere in there for pad replacement. They last awhile even with hard driving.

Fixed that for you.

I've never heard of a rotor being frozen. Should be fun and an easy flip.

Norwalk and kilkare are the only ones worth a fuck anymore. Pacemakers isn't too bad I suppose. National trails is a struggle for traction.

Can't wait to get out to the fall event. Hopefully my diff holds a 6k 18psi clutch dump.

Rocky hit it on the money. Keep a hammer in the car until you get it fixed (aka when it needs hit enough to where you want to pay money lol)

Why not a Toyota dealer?

I never knew this. I was always under the impression it could simply be turned off in HPTuners or another tuning solution.

The transmission issue is because it is a twin clutch setup and Ford is fucked in the head. Those transmissions at low speeds in a shop are dangerous at best.

2007+ By that I mean the "new" 2007's, the Classics are essentially a 2006. The 2007 interiors are nicer, you get 4 little buttons to flip through mileage, consumption among other things on the area that shows the odometer. The radio is redesigned to a more user friendly style IMO, the seats seem a bit more comfy, I think the center console/arm rest changed a bit as well. The gauge cluster is different as well. Not "major" overhauls that I am aware of. Just redesigns. I have no idea on the 6 speeds. A GM tech or someone savvy in the newer gen's will have to chime in on that. I don't know whether that is something you do or don't want to have. I know when I get a Silverado it'll be a 03-07 2500HD, the fuel economy is shit so I might as well get a 4L80E and 6.0 to make it worth it.

Get the displacement on demand/active fuel management crap tuned out. My 2007 classic never really needed a thing, the 4x4 switch went out but other than that no repairs. I've seen quite a few need oil cooler and trans cooler lines replaced as they leak, but that's as major as I've seen. Typical maintenance for a vehicle aside they are awesome. At least drivetrain wise. The 2007 classic is GMT800, I'm not sure about the interiors on the newer 07+ stuff, I am only experienced in the powertrain.

Any miata, solstice or sky also fiat 500's. Im 6'6", that should explain why.

Rear diff may have formed a leak and Is now low on fluid. At that mileage that's my main guess.

I'm not saying I'm winning anything. I'm just laughing people are crying about getting dirty when working on a car. If you don't like to get dirty just simply take it somewhere.

Yes, I have done quite a few. I'll see if I can get one tomorrow and do it one handed and film in the other.