flounder

Hmm.. I may just swing by..

use zabasearch.com on yourself to get your addresses. It works pretty well.

I would be pretty comfortable guessing there is easily more than 2x what you have in yours. That actually looks like a TacSol X-Ring Rifle which has a starting price around $850. That one looks to be sporting their Vantage RS stock

Only every great once in a while will you find anything worth it. Other than that, they are a complete waste of time and money unless you just want to go and laugh at people.

Not sure what year youre living in but gun shows havent had deals since before the prior election.. They have been nothing but a cluster fuck for 5yrs+

Im headed out in a little bit to try and shoot some coyotes. Does that count?

Coyotes are good and bad. Good that they help clean up roadkill such as deer and other animals. Bad that they re-produce so quickly, and do quite a bit of damage on the other wildlife. They will pretty much eliminate any coons, possums, Rabbits, Turkeys, groundhogs, cats, squirrels and other wildlife in an area. They are also a pack hunter of sorts and will go after full size deer and fawns are pretty much game over. If food is really scarce and its a bad winter or an overpopulated coyote area, dont be surprised if they go after farm animals such as sheep, calves, chickens are snacks, etc. When those food source dwindles, they travel more and will enter into neighborhoods going through trash and after pets. There was an article a few years ago in TX where 2 coyotes attacked a couple of kids at a playground. They need controlled just like the other animal populations. And the Bad for this animal outweighs any good they do by a great amount which is why there is no closed season and no bag limits on them. Some states even have a bounty on them. FYI. for those women on the board, unless you have fake fur, where do you think the fur on your coat collars, sleeves, boots, etc come from. The majority of the time its coyote.

So about 5 days ago, someone hit a deer about a mile from my house. Well about 2 days ago, I noticed that the yotes had found it and started in on it. Yesterday, they had dragged it from the ditch about 20 yards into the field, and today, they had dragged it another 10 and cleaned it pretty much to the bones except for the neck area. Since I have permission to hunt this field I decided I would head up there tonight since I know they hang out in the woods on the far edge of the field and had been coming to the deer carcass the last few nights. I got setup, turned on the call and within 5 min, I see 2 heading across the field 225 yards out. I had the scope dialed for 200 just to cover my bases for when/if something showed so it was a no brainer. BANG, DRT! (Dead Right There). The other one took off like a bat out of hell so no luck there but ill be back. Anyway. Sleep tight Mr Yote. This one has a great coat and what you are actually seeing is the exit hole side.

what is this DLC coating you speak of?

Dont wrap it. Just take them out and have it sitting on the back deck or in the back yard with a taget setup. then watch the smiles as they get to shoot it wright away. Please make sure to enforce proper fundamentals and safety. Sitting there and squeezing off rounds may be fun but if they are not hitting the target, its a poor reflection on our ability to be safe and responsible. IMO.. My personal opinion is that a safe, responsible gun owner not only treats them with respect but makes sure that their rounds go where intended. Have fun. looks like a great setup!

Go with an MSR Whisperlite universal for multi fuel capability . That's what i use when I'm hunting. Stove of the year..

Pof makes quality shit. They are pricey but very well

5 yrs before we every see one of these somewhere. 10 before they become somewhat common.

Good luck. If you dont have one now, you are 6-8 months out.

Get 2 EvaDry E500. Goldenrod heaters are a bad idea as they create warm air which will rise and exit out the top of your safe while at the same time bringing in outside, cool, moist air in from the bottom. Read this. http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=258092&Number=3545326#Post3545326 And the most important 2 posts in the entire thread --------------------------- My Choices: Eva-Dry dehumidifiers are definitely the best. I use 2x E500s and an Eva-Dry Peltier EDV-1100 in a Liberty 25 safe. There is a seller on Ebay who sells a package of 2x E500, 2x E333, and one EDV-1100 for $89 shipped and this price really can’t be beat. Silicon Gel needs to be recharged every 1+ months depending on where you live. Boxes and cans are simply very difficult to recharge. Unlike the packages usually say, these need to be poured out and placed in an oven for probably 12 hours or so. The Eva-Dry simply plugs into and outlet, heats up, and dries itself out. I also have one of Liberty’s golden rods. I think the rod would be great for a garage safe but for a safe inside, where the temperature remains relatively constant, it is pretty useless. The Numbers: With 2x E500s the safe humidity decreased to a stead ~42%. With the 2x E500s and one EDV-1100 it decreased to ~32%. With the weather proofing strips around the door, 2x E500s, and one EDV-1100 it stayed ~32% or less. *the changes were measured after 3+ days My Eva-drys needed to be recharged in 2 months. I shut the peltier off when the humidity goes under 30%. Humidity Discussion: From my web research, the goal for humidity is ~35-40%. Low humidity’s, under 30% can shrink and crack wood and ivory. Above 50% is probably detrimental. New Safes are usually extremely wet for months after purchase, due to manufacturing techniques and will dry out over time! Hopefully this helps some of you web surfers out there beat the Rust Monster! I know the rust monster can be a bitch! ------------------------------------------------------------------ I have managed safes on the coast (throw a rock) for decades (lots of them). I have managed raw steel, high carbon, blued steel, wood, leather, park, etc., etc. for 40+ years. If you think waiting for anything, anything, that recharges by plugging it into the wall for 10+ hours is the way to go, I would say nope. If you think one has to pour out silica gel to get it dry, I have to say, no friggin' way. If you think capturing water in any kind of cup or container electrically is the way to go, I would say dangerous and impractical. 3 hours at 275 or 2 hours at 325 is the only way to recharge a dryer. You buy large silica sealed units and get on with it. Plugging anything in the wall cannot come close to the heat or the mass of silica getl dehydrants. You need an oven, not an outlet to make this all become easy. Now it is true that not so long ago, you could by stainless steel 1,500 gram units, or aluminum 1,000 gram units. today we can get to here... http://www.silica-gel-source.com/750-Gram-Rechargeable-Silica-Gel-P26C24.aspx Or in paper, yes I use them, but reseal the bags differently, with these. http://www.silica-gel-source.com/900-Gram-Rechargeable-Silica-Gel-P24C20.aspx If you are new to this, run two. When the fireproofing is dried out you can run with one. Goldenrod....throw it out. Do not use them. Do not run electricity into your safe and especially not into any heating units. YEs I once owned them, now? Gone. Think of it this way, there are two kinds of safes and only two kinds of safes. Closed and open atmospheres. Closed atmosphere safes are air tight. You put a golden rod into those and if there is moisture it just circulates it around and around and around. A perfect rain forest. You put in your sealed silica gel canisters and your done. Open atmosphere safes circulate outside air into the safe. They are not air tight. Think about it. Heat the air up and....it goes out the top and sucks cold wet air into the bottom. A perfect cycle of replenishment. Golden rods are for clothes closets, not gun safes, not for leather, not for wood, not for metal. Get rid of it. The great news is that you are keeping track of the numbers. That is the game. You are getting results, but the hard way. Two 750s, recharged every, what? 4 months? Done. Get the best hygro meter you can buy, definitely with High Low Memory. http://www.amazon.com/Extech-445815-Humi...extech+humidity Keep leather out. Nothing goes in wet. Nothing goes in that is plugged in. Nothing goes in that generates heat. Nothing goes in that captures raw water. Nothing goes in that gasifies. Use a light quality oil (Tri-Flo, CLP, etc.) Rust bag those long terms that you can. Keep ammo powders out. After 6 months, things will settle down and you will be on your way. Good luck.

R&D and components. Research and Dev is not cheap.

What exactly do you think you need to "surprise"

FLIR is the cats ass!!!. We got invited to their private party 2 years ago (about 25people total) at SHOT and got to see their military and Prototype stuff that was coming out. We got to play with it all and all I can say is if I had unlimited funds, I would have one of each. The NV and Thermal stuff they make is #1. Talk about a kid in a candy store! If you werent a US citizen, you could not even look at the stuff they had brought.

Prostaff's and Monarchs have good glass.

Pretty much. But again, if you are happy with its performance than go for it.

I havent played with it personally but NVD's are one of those things where you really do get what you pay for. And sadly $500 isnt even a drop in the bucket when talking NVD. My Fenix TK15-S2 400lumen flashlight will easily light up a target out to 100-150 yards so when comparing the cost difference, you can do the math.

Its all about budget and requirements. For the average person/hunter, Nikon is plenty and Nikon has decent glass in some of their models. The thing to remember, is that every person has a different set of requirements and expectations and if the scope meets your expectations/budget, then thats a good scope for you. Just like everything else, the more you get into something the more your requirements/expectations may change. Ive been lucky enough to get to play with and get exposure to almost every scope on the market including the uber expensive ones in the $2k-$3k+ range. The more exposure you get, the more you learn and the more you can start to see the differences in glass quality, tracking, features, construction, etc. So again, if you are happy with it and it meets your requirements, than thats good for you so go out and enjoy the hell out of it.

Dont waste your money on that stuff. Youre better off with a flashlight than those things.

Millets are like flipping a coin. You may get an "ok" one that works, or complete shit. Also, the glass in them is definitely sub par. Either way, Millets are a budget level scope and nowhere near the same level as bushnel, nikon, leupold, vortex, etc. Yes I know bushnel owns millet now but still its a completely separate division and they are not worth the time and hassle imo.

Dont forget the emergency decent. As soon as he rolled it after the last jumper I knew exactly what he was doing. And as you can see doing a emergency decent can get a plan on the ground faster than freefall. I used to take me friends up and do them for them. Pull power (and feather props in his case), push nose, roll into steep bank, and pull back on the yoke to spiral down at speed. Just dont overstress the plane and rip the wings off. They are fun and a good way to teach people what a few G's feels like. That was a helluva turn/landing from base to final. Impressive! The last time I did an emergency decent with friends, I actually lost the engine on the way down so it went from fun to O shit. I was just about to roll out of the e-decent and heard a loud pop and saw smoke. Rolled out quick turned toward the airport and started to climb, Gained about 2500 ft and Bang.. another pop and now the engine was running really rough and I couldnt hold altitude. Luckily was high enough that I could limp to the airport. Got it there and on the ground. Turns out they had just replaced 2 cylinders in the plane which were not in the maintenance logs when I checked it out. Needless to say, I never rented a plane from them again.