coltboostin

Home made wine (had red and white), Home made Brandy (Best brandy I have ever had- Vodka Swepps (x2) Redbull+shot of Vodka, Snake bite. Grape freeze (x2) then 3 Xmas Ales. Sleepin @ 6am.

Still made it to the Gym by one.

QFT

 

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/Import%20Face%20Off%202011/photo_13146598528acea1e27.jpg

 

Those NOS models stalked me for weeks after the event :fuckyeah:

DOC=Life winning.

Just the slow ones, so 99%

Problem is even the fast ones, are slow.

So yes, I am on day 1 of 4 for 2013. Just got done with a Metroparks snowrally session.

Didn't know rwd cars had to worry about wheel hop. I thought that the "squatting" helped keep the wheels in place. By squatting I mean when you hit the gas and the rear end sinks..

Oh lord....:lolguy:

Have been there 16 times now (17 coming up-quick bender- thanks to winning monthly sales contest) and most of my thoughts have been covered in similar Vegas Virgin threads. Use the search button! Its whatever you make it.

Want to have a nice, relaxing time, east great food, see great shows...have the tiem of your life and never leave the hotel? No prob.

Want to rock out literally with your cock out, be with the most physically attractive women on gods green earthy- stay up 4 days straight on a coke, money, and Vodka infused binge, do dountus in Ferraris on the strip-literally ON LVS BLVD, set hotels on fire, and narrowly escape with your life, no money, and bring home a few "extras", that require medication to remove, No prob.

Its all up to you.

To start this year right, I had a nice box come from Ross Machine Racing today:

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y59/14biggy/Supra%20Build%202012-2013/DSC_0475-1.jpg

 

 

My first project is a semi-replica of their gen 2 intake manifold that Supra enthusiasts have become so accustomed to. Buying from a reputable company such as RMR is a much better experience than any I've had from a materials standpoint; everything is beautifully cut, the fitment is immaculate, and the billet pieces are truly breathtaking.

 

Take a look at these velocity stacks:

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y59/14biggy/Supra%20Build%202012-2013/DSC_0476-1.jpg

 

 

I can't wait to get started.

Hey can you PM/call me about these parts? I am looking to buy similar/the same tube and some velocity stacks.

Car runs reeealll good.

When do you expect to have the car back together?

for me it's not the time, it's odds and ends that I have to buy. My wifes tuition is due early january and it's out of pocket since financial aid won't kick in yet. Were trying to avoid blowing through my credit card/savings to get it done. So things like welding tank/gas, coil over shocks/sleeves, end links for rear, turbo, add up.

 

If things work out, then I'm game. We'll just see.

i got you-life comes first!~

if it's the end of jan I maybe ready for it, but that iffy at best.

Push yourself-thats the point of the contest. You have all year to make some numbers/track passes. Hell you can win every event on December 30th!

I 100% will not have a running car jan 30th, but this will force me to push to go faster than the next guy during the year. Want to be the best? Want to beat the best? You have to step into the ring first.

When is the cutoff to enter going to be? I won't know about job situation until mid Feb. If I stay employed, I'm in. If not, the whole game changes for me.

Nothing set yet-if we do it-I would thnk End of Jan.

And god dammit for the last time guys I am NOT GOING TO MAKE THIS A STREET RACING EVENT, especially on a public forum where a lot of people got popped for it not too long ago. You here that officer friendly? These are all legal activities!

I don't like jail, and I cant ask everyone to be across a border on a certain day/time place. Hell I could barley afford the plane ticket.

Colt Boostin for President.

Looking forward to seeing your car in person Mr. JP.

Thanks! You as well.

 

373 whp on a stock motor with a GT35R (15psi) and the Corn.

 

287 hp/liter.

Is that my bike? Even the same color! I have been saying that IS the best set up for a Busa for a LONG time. Corn overcomes all shortfalls you have turboing a stock Busa. If this is really going to be your bike, please PM me.

Then dont enter.

 

Go look at Nelson Racing Engines then youll find your retard pumpgas V8s.

This guy gets it.

I think making it HP and TRQ- and giving the NA guys a bump (still working on that number) is as fair as I can make it.

But yes, if you dont like the way the rule end up-dont come to the party! I honestly dont expect to win ANYTHING on the list with the shit coming out this year, but I want to be pushed and motivated all of 2013 to try and be at the top, somewhere!

Remember folks.

 

Law enforcement and the news media have access to this forum. Might want to take that into consideration. Last thing we need is Monica Durban and her Father getting on the evening news talking about the new street racing laws and CR.

Bingo.

We have to keep this to legal events to measure a car's performance, period. Especially if sponsors want to come on board.

Agree 100%

 

I only make ~113whp per litre (6.8L@768awhp). I would assume a V8 would need well over 1000whp to be able to compete.

 

Now HP/TQ to weight...I'm in lol. 5200lbs.

I dont know why all you V8 guys keep crying about the dyno- there is an ET and MPH price as well. You could lose the dyno and still walk with 60% of the pot!

My thoughts on a TRUE "KOTS" competition if you are going to do a dyno hp/liter crap is to have TRUE STREET events. Straight line speed is only one aspect.

 

How about a points system for each category:

 

1) 1/4-mile ET

2) 1/4-mile speed

3) Braking 60-0

4) Slalom

5) Auto-X

6) 1-Mile speed

7) Street Cruise/Creature comforts

8) mpg

9) 60-130 times

Etc..etc..

 

Anyone can build a purpose build DRAG car/setup but how about a TRUE STREET machine...

 

 

 

Other events like Texas don't require a full build. You can get away with a lot until you get 200+ speeds in a car...

Then you can set that up. I don't have time to hold an event, or babysit a 12 point race inspection, keep a log book...ect. I am just looking to keep the pot stirred the entire year. Someone wants to run their mouth-put up or shut up.

Keep it simple, keep it easy.

Yes, on a Mustang I have done the same. From what I know the same holds true for a Dynopak. The same cannot be done on a Dynojet.

I am not sure about a Superflow tough (there is an AWD SF in Akron)

Have any parties recently? Most robberies happen with people that know you or know of you and the things you have and when you wont be there. Might be that someone was just casing your house but most of the time its a friend of a friend

Truth

And this excerpt (in reference to a Mustang dyno) is what I speak of. You can not make these corrections on a Dynojet. Changing temp/altitude will adjust the correction factor, but you *might get 5-8 HP out of it, and involves manipulating the program which is a pain since the Dynojet READS the ambient temp-and barometric pressure-and adjusts accordingly. On a mustang, the :load factors" are manually imputed by he operator (or picked form a directory int he program) for every car that goes on the dyno

For instance, my 2002 Z28 with a forged internal LS6 Heads/Cam/Intake, makes 460rwhp on our dyno. I thought that was a little low, since I’ve had cam only LS6 Z06 vettes make 450rwhp. So I overlaid the dyno graphs. Guess what, the PAU force for my car was almost 200lbs more than the C5Z06 that made 450rwhp with cam only. So I entered the weight and horsepower at 50 number for a C5Z06 and did another horsepower rip with my car. The only reason I did that was to compare Apples to Apples. This time my car made 490rwhp, no other changes.

I dont want to turn this into a dyno debate-but just be aware of the possible issues with giving a fixed % for dyno x vs dyno y.

As for questions about dyno-s I have done much research over the years-this is a great read.

"I have written pages and pages of posts on this topic on various forums. Here's a little write up I did a few weeks ago. . .

DynoJets are inertia dynos, and have been around for years, much longer than any type of load cell dyno. Inertia dyno's work on the principle of the acceleration of a known mass over time. Their rollers are the known mass. Weighing in at over 2500lbs or so. Your car gets strapped down to the machine, and the dyno collects it's data. It is able to calculate horsepower by measuring the acceleration in rpm of the rollers in regards to RPM. This is why gearing can affect the dyno results, more on that in a bit. Now that the dyno has recorded the horsepower curve, it can take the integral of that curve and get the torque curve. Since the dyno’s power calculations are based on the acceleration of mass over time in regards to RPM, gearing is very important. Since a vehicle with a lower gear ratio can accelerate the mass to a higher speed using less engine RPM, it will show a higher horsepower number than a car with a higher gear ratio. If a car is able to accelerate the dyno’s rollers from 200rpm (roller) to 300rpm (roller)in 1500rpm (engine), then the dyno is going to record more power than a car that did that in 2000rpm (engine).

Now we go to Mustang dyno’s and other loaded dyno’s. Our Mustang MD-1100SE dyno’s rollers weigh 2560lbs. That is the actual mass of the rollers, much like the DynoJet. That’s about where all the similarities end. When we get a car on our dyno, we enter two constants for the dyno’s algorithms. One being the vehicle weight, the other being what’s called “Horsepower At 50mph”. This is a number that represents how much horsepower it takes for the vehicle to push the air to maintain 50mph. This is used as the aerodynamic force. Mustang dyno’s are also equipped with a eddy currant load cell. Think of a magnetic brake from a freight train. This magnetic brake can apply enough resistance to stall a big rig. Off one side of the eddy currant load cell, there is a cantilever with a 5volt reference load sensor (strain gage). As the rollers are spinning this load sensor is measuring the actual torque being applied. So as the rollers spin, the load sensor is measuring the force being applied, sending that information to the dyno computer, taking into account the two constants entered earlier, computing the amount of resistance needed to be applied to the rollers to load the car so that the force of the rollers resistance is as close to the force the car sees on the street. The dyno is then able to calculate the total force being applied to the rollers in torque, and then taking the derivative of that torque curve to arrive at the horsepower curve. Since torque is an actual force of nature, like gravity and electricity, it can be directly measured. Horsepower is an idea that was thought up by man, and cannot be directly measured, only calculated.

I like to state it like this. . . I start by asking how much your car weighs, lets say 3500lbs. Now you take your car and you make a make a WOT rip in your tallest non overdrive gear, how much mass is your engine working against? 3500lbs right? Now you strap your car on a DynoJet and you make a WOT in the same gear, how much mass is your engine working against? 2500lbs right? Now you strap your car on a Mustang dyno, how much mass is your engine working against? 2500lbs. Plus the resistance being applied by the eddy current generator. We’ve seen anywhere for 470lbs of resistance to over 700lbs of resistance as measured in PAU force in the data logs. So which one is more accurate? Well they their both accurate. If a DynoJet dyno says you made 460rwhp, then you made 460rwhp. If a Mustang dyno says you made 460rwhp, you also made 460rwhp. Now which one of those numbers best represents what your car is doing when its on the street. That’s a different question.

The most important thing to remember is that a dyno is a testing tool. If the numbers keep increasing, then you’re doing the right thing. We try to look over at NET gain, instead of Peak HP numbers. A 30rwhp increase is a 30rwhp increase regardless of what dyno it is on.

Now I can address how to calculate the difference between one type of dyno and another. Simply put, you can’t. Because Mustang dyno’s have so many more variables, it’s not a simple percentage difference. We’ve had cars that made 422rwhp on our Dyno, two days later make 458rwhp on a DynoJet the next day. We’ve also had cars that made 550rwhp on our dyno, make 650+rwhp on a DynoJet a few days later at another shops Dyno Day. For instance, my 2002 Z28 with a forged internal LS6 Heads/Cam/Intake, makes 460rwhp on our dyno. I thought that was a little low, since I’ve had cam only LS6 Z06 vettes make 450rwhp. So I overlaid the dyno graphs. Guess what, the PAU force for my car was almost 200lbs more than the C5Z06 that made 450rwhp with cam only. So I entered the weight and horsepower at 50 number for a C5Z06 and did another horsepower rip with my car. The only reason I did that was to compare Apples to Apples. This time my car made 490rwhp, no other changes. Now I don’t go around saying my car made 490rwhp, I say what it actually did with the correct information entered into the computer. It made 460rwhp. Now if I ever get a chance to take it on a DynoJet (which I plan to in the spring), I have no doubts it’ll be over 500rwhp. I know this based on airflow and fuel consumption on the data logs.

But since we’re asked this question constantly we're fairly conservative, and hence tell our customers that the difference is closer to 6-7%, but as you make more power, and the more your car weighs, the difference increases as well. You must remember, Dyno's regardless of the type are tuning tools, and are in no means meant to tell people how fast their car is. Now which one is more "real world" is a totally different question. I like to explain it like this..... If you drive your car in a situation in which you have no mass and you're in a vacuum, so basically if you do intergalactic racing in space, use a DynoJet. If your car sees gravity, and has an aerodynamic coefficient, and you race on a planet called Earth, then use a Mustang Dyno"

I can be participant?

Duh

Well he done said gutted cars is still street. If you can plate it race it.

If you take the seats and interior our of your C6 or GTR to get a better ET/mph, I don't think anyone would complain. Again, if there is a questions people will raise it.

This is going to end in a pile of bitching. JP if I were you I would set the rules closer to what dragweek does or maybe NMCA/NMRA/LSX Shootout true street rules.

 

That way it takes the grey area away, people know where they stand, and you can separate out via power adders vs NA.

There will be some ground-rules established-and some adjustment made for NA cars and possibly certain dyno types. We will see. There seems to be enough interest for it to warrant the effort.

Like the idea.

Good idea to separate street cars vs others would be to meet then hold like a 20-30 mile cruise to a restaurant. 1. To get food 2. Find out if the cars are road worthy.

I know that in the rroc meets for the cars to be judged they drive 50-100miles

I like it-but again this is a YEAR LONG deal, and not just in C bus- if people raise issue about a car being street worthy, we will address it. We are all big boys here.

whp/Liter favors small motors too much.

And Auto's have the advantage for ET. Does that mean we should give 5 speeds a time bump? I will try to even the playing field but everyone will not be happy either way.

HVAC for older cars would automatically disqualify them

It was a general statement. Again, if there is an issue with an entry-people will raise that issue. I There are people who almost daily their cars in the spring/fall with no HVAC

Might be a little wild of a suggestion, especially given the fact I wouldn't be entering..but I know some AutoX sanctions multiply turbo cars displacement by 1.5 to somewhat "level the field" for N/A cars. Just something I felt I should throw out there.

Thats what I am suggesting for NA, juts make it a percentage. A certain % for dyno/trap/et