natedogg624

i was talking with the Arai helmet cleaner at Mid Oh a few years back and he was telling a story of a racer that split a buck in half at one of the circuits they were running at 170 mph full tuck.

the rider was seriously hurt, obviously the deer dead. But the doctors said that if he wasn't in a tuck he would have been dead as well.

that'd make a nice ornament in your garage.

MOTOGP is the prototypes and all the expense that goes with it. I personally like it. Then the Superbikes, be the less expensive and format is purported to be street (appearing) bikes. All of this as I understand in my limited readings. Tires limited to one manufacturer...again to limit costs to racers, but maybe input from manufacturers too. How many tires do ya need to make and bring to the race?

My personal preference is the MOTOGP, the F1 of motorcycles, so I'd say leave it be. Do yer limitations at the Superbike group...single format (think like them lil' Legends cars...engines are all sealed etc.-becomes a rider formula, rather than major bucks win). But, I'm still a newbie.

back in the day michelin teams used to do practice tests on friday of the weekend, give their results back to the michelin factory and have purpose built tires for that track/conditions/temp/etc ready by saturday or sunday.

im pretty sure thats accurate, i remember reading it somewhere i just don't remember if it was a credible source or not.

well same with the LM GT1 class, those were expensive as hell and i would never be able to afford anything like that.

but just to make the option available would be neat, IMO

and no doubt the would fill their required allotment in no time. Desmo RR sold out within 6-8 months. and it contributed 68M euros to their business.

http://www.crash.net/motorsport/motogp/news/173139-0/should_motogp_bikes_be_sold.html

reminds me of the old GT1 Le mans class (Toyota Gt-one, Mercedes CLK-GTR, Porsche GT1, etc) where it required x number of road legal cars in order to enter its prototype into the class.

not sure if it would be implemented or not into the rules, but it could be a step in the right direction.

^yup

nick why should i buy this before the damper?

fireman -- what on the upper needs paint? it looks good to me...

also have you mounted the fairing stay on your 99 to see if for sure it fits?

and what about a tank?

so whats your idea of a "soft gasket scraper?"

and what about preventing little flakes from going in to the engine?

you should see me at work.

bench always stays clean, i wear lint free clothes when im working with this along with latex gloves. i use old 100% cotton t-shirts when working with any internal part and when im done for the day i put the case/oil pan back on (not bolted in or anything just resting on each other w/dowels) to keep anything from getting in while im not there.

its probably going to be hard to prevent little pieces of gasket from getting in. any advice on this part of it?

i would think it would be fine to choke it, but don't do it until you're ready to start it, not priming it. and take a lot of 1fasttc's advice, my main concern is just how clean it's going to be when reassembled.

what do you mean clean? every cover and surface area will be wiped clean with the "blue paper towels" as well as properly lubed/oiled upon reassembly as per the manual

How long has the other Tranny been sitting dry? Not to mention an older motor going dry. Its much better to be safe then sorry. I am just letting him know. He doesn't need to use my advice either. I just put it out there.

change of plans regarding how much trans im using, not sure if you caught this in my rebuild thread or not.

im still using the same 99 input and output shafts, only difference is im using the 05 2nd and 6th gear.

i like the way the 99 gears/shafts looked as well as the condition of the bearings, better than the surface rusted 05, so im keeping everything that i can original and just replacing those 2 gears like i said.

as for the condition of these two gears, its fairly decent. not perfect, the 05 trans as a whole has been sitting dry for about 2-3 years now not in an any kind of engine, on a shelf in their warehouse the seller said. however there is minimal surface rusting if any at that on these two gears. they will still get a thorough cleaning nonetheless and soaked in engine oil before everything is installed

so not a complete overhaul at all, just replacing two gears. change anything?

good info on the priming/starting procedure. question on that though: its carb'd, usually it doesn't start in the cold unless i choke it.

can i choke it to start it or no?

weekends at the gap aren't that great, from what i've heard.

if you really want to enjoy the road then you have to get there on a weekday. on the weekends, its filled with bikers of all sorts getting their fill in since its the only time they can do it with work during the week and all.

any recommendation on the brand of non-synthetic?

and dont worry about the oil through the spark plug holes?

i like how there was only 5 big rig vehicles involved in that out of 59. the rest are little cars.

idk that says something to me.

three questions:

this half bearing ring that goes in the casing:

i mistakenly forgot to remember what it looked like when i took the output shaft out of the casing. right now, it is flush with the seal on one side and there is this gap as pictured on the other. question is, is it supposed to have that gap, or is it supposed to be flush on both sides? if there is supposed to be a gap, does it matter which side is flush?

second question:

how do you clean the old gasket seal off the cases? obviously i don't want to use any kind of scraper in fear of digging into the case. i was thinking brake clean and a scotchbrite pad?

third and final:

the motor has been sitting in a crate in a heated closet in my apartment since mid november and it hasn't been cranked since then either. no coolant in it since beginning december, and sat upside down on my bench with no oil for the past three days now.

what do i need to do to make sure everything gets oiled properly before i push the start button. my concern is the lack of oil in the cylinder walls. i've seen the guys building car engines dump oil over everything before the button everything up, i know its a little different procedure but it got me thinking about my own engine. i was thinking a little oil through the spark plug holes and manually rotating the crank through the timing rotor.

better to ask the experienced guys than to experiment myself.

thanks fellas.

now you can just post the youtube link you see at the top of the page and it will automatically do it.

SOLD.

last week.

geez ben thats two things tonight your using from me...

yup

its pretty gay.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVicCD8FmMs

video to gif

first link

what if i just wanted to fool people and leave your name on the suit?

then they'd be asking why is healea so slow today??

jk nice suit bumpity

Looks good man. I'm totally jealous (of your four pack)

fixed

you going to wear that on our sunday rides in the summer?

also what did you do for protection? i know the back protector in my teknic was a quarter the size of my back so i proceeded to get a full length protector down to the tailbone.

i've got both the haynes and factory service manual as a guide. i have the tightening sequence as well as all specs along with a good torque wrench for the smaller torque specs. i am well prepared for this project.

as for my "circle" picture, i was just circling the only place there are bearings listed in the manual and on the parts fiche. i do have "big end" bearings under the rod end caps. so there are no bearings in the place brennan circled at all. i believe campus racer is correct in that the lower is used as the cap.

but if you want to prove me wrong please do so i wont be offended, this is a learning process for me as well.

edit: did some looking around, they aren't "main's" but rather journal bearings, so thats where the confusion was, my bad. the journals are right where they are supposed to be, within the casing slots they are assigned. they are two halves that separate when you split the cases which is why you don't see them in any of the pictures, and they are all there (in the lower at least, i can only assume they're in the upper as well)

all is well! thanks for making me check that though.

i didn't.

they are still on. bearings are under the caps. as per the manual there is nothing that goes where you circled, just the mating between the two cases.

but way to scare me though.