natedogg624

so whats your idea of a "soft gasket scraper?" and what about preventing little flakes from going in to the engine?

you should see me at work. bench always stays clean, i wear lint free clothes when im working with this along with latex gloves. i use old 100% cotton t-shirts when working with any internal part and when im done for the day i put the case/oil pan back on (not bolted in or anything just resting on each other w/dowels) to keep anything from getting in while im not there.

its probably going to be hard to prevent little pieces of gasket from getting in. any advice on this part of it? what do you mean clean? every cover and surface area will be wiped clean with the "blue paper towels" as well as properly lubed/oiled upon reassembly as per the manual

change of plans regarding how much trans im using, not sure if you caught this in my rebuild thread or not. im still using the same 99 input and output shafts, only difference is im using the 05 2nd and 6th gear. i like the way the 99 gears/shafts looked as well as the condition of the bearings, better than the surface rusted 05, so im keeping everything that i can original and just replacing those 2 gears like i said. as for the condition of these two gears, its fairly decent. not perfect, the 05 trans as a whole has been sitting dry for about 2-3 years now not in an any kind of engine, on a shelf in their warehouse the seller said. however there is minimal surface rusting if any at that on these two gears. they will still get a thorough cleaning nonetheless and soaked in engine oil before everything is installed so not a complete overhaul at all, just replacing two gears. change anything? good info on the priming/starting procedure. question on that though: its carb'd, usually it doesn't start in the cold unless i choke it. can i choke it to start it or no?

weekends at the gap aren't that great, from what i've heard. if you really want to enjoy the road then you have to get there on a weekday. on the weekends, its filled with bikers of all sorts getting their fill in since its the only time they can do it with work during the week and all.

any recommendation on the brand of non-synthetic? and dont worry about the oil through the spark plug holes?

i like how there was only 5 big rig vehicles involved in that out of 59. the rest are little cars. idk that says something to me.

three questions: this half bearing ring that goes in the casing: i mistakenly forgot to remember what it looked like when i took the output shaft out of the casing. right now, it is flush with the seal on one side and there is this gap as pictured on the other. question is, is it supposed to have that gap, or is it supposed to be flush on both sides? if there is supposed to be a gap, does it matter which side is flush? second question: how do you clean the old gasket seal off the cases? obviously i don't want to use any kind of scraper in fear of digging into the case. i was thinking brake clean and a scotchbrite pad? third and final: the motor has been sitting in a crate in a heated closet in my apartment since mid november and it hasn't been cranked since then either. no coolant in it since beginning december, and sat upside down on my bench with no oil for the past three days now. what do i need to do to make sure everything gets oiled properly before i push the start button. my concern is the lack of oil in the cylinder walls. i've seen the guys building car engines dump oil over everything before the button everything up, i know its a little different procedure but it got me thinking about my own engine. i was thinking a little oil through the spark plug holes and manually rotating the crank through the timing rotor. better to ask the experienced guys than to experiment myself. thanks fellas.

now you can just post the youtube link you see at the top of the page and it will automatically do it.

SOLD. last week.

geez ben thats two things tonight your using from me...

yup its pretty gay. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVicCD8FmMs

video to gif first link

what if i just wanted to fool people and leave your name on the suit? then they'd be asking why is healea so slow today?? jk nice suit bumpity

fixed you going to wear that on our sunday rides in the summer? also what did you do for protection? i know the back protector in my teknic was a quarter the size of my back so i proceeded to get a full length protector down to the tailbone.

i've got both the haynes and factory service manual as a guide. i have the tightening sequence as well as all specs along with a good torque wrench for the smaller torque specs. i am well prepared for this project. as for my "circle" picture, i was just circling the only place there are bearings listed in the manual and on the parts fiche. i do have "big end" bearings under the rod end caps. so there are no bearings in the place brennan circled at all. i believe campus racer is correct in that the lower is used as the cap. but if you want to prove me wrong please do so i wont be offended, this is a learning process for me as well. edit: did some looking around, they aren't "main's" but rather journal bearings, so thats where the confusion was, my bad. the journals are right where they are supposed to be, within the casing slots they are assigned. they are two halves that separate when you split the cases which is why you don't see them in any of the pictures, and they are all there (in the lower at least, i can only assume they're in the upper as well) all is well! thanks for making me check that though.

i didn't. they are still on. bearings are under the caps. as per the manual there is nothing that goes where you circled, just the mating between the two cases. but way to scare me though.

dude you got jipped. the a-star is backwards...

main what? which pic are you referring too?

oil pan off, along with oiling internals taken out, strainer/pump/pump chain/relief valve new 05 output shaft w/ gears on top, and input shaft on bottom. shift shaft rod cleaning. before on the right, after on the left split the cases! output shaft removed selector drum, and forks removed check out those scrape marks on the output shaft shifter forks...weird alas the source of my problem. my gremlin. if you can't tell, the rounded part is not supposed to be rounded like that. its like this on all three. the dog holes where the above dogs mesh with. you can see where it slips in and out, even the holes are rounded a bit

someone's double dipping

the other three yamaha/honda/suzuki

one more reason to buy yamaha--easy to change your gauge cluster color lol

for kawi's yes you have to solder because you guys have ~7 different LED's on a circuit board. for only yamaha's (maybe zukes) you don't need to solder at all --we have 2-3 led bulbs. i just figured out what led's it took, (#74 type slim wedge base bulb) and its a simple twist lock and install easy.