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Lets debate oil!!


Tonik

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No, not what kind of oil...but why most motorcycles want you to have the bike upright to check the oil. If it's level front to back...why not set up the marks on the dip stick for when it is on the side stand? It's a mystery that I don't have an answer for. I ask because my current bike is creating quite the debate on checking the oil...there is the drawn out procedure. Run it for a certain time that varies depending on temp...then let it sit for three minutes....it's really quite amazing.

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My bike is Side stand, Level ground, Cold engine. 


 


Unscrew dipstick, wipe with clean rag or paper towel, insert dipstick straight into hole without engaging any threads, remove dipstick and check level.


 


if it were upright, it did come factory with a center stand, but that is not the method on my bike.

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Why not set up the marks on the dip stick for when it is on the side stand?

 

One thought: If I park the bike on a slightly uneven spot, then the lean angle of the bike on the kickstand could change... or if I lower the bike, I would think the lean angle would change as well... 

So.. marking the dip stick or sight glass for that would be far to variable... 

 

In terms of the level of the bike (front to back and side to side) both directions would have an effect on the oil level at the place of reading (where the sight glass/dip stick is located)... If the bike is slightly leaned to the right, and slightly uphill, more oil will be at the back right portion of the sump/pan/motor/etc, thus throwing ff the reading...

 

 

Basically, in my opinion..level is always level

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Basically, in my opinion..level is always level

 

Yea, this is kind of where I have gone with it.  It is the most repeatable set up. What about which way the tire is cranked, or all the way or part of the way. Too many variables on the side stand.

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Might wanna check your manual,

Seems to me the manual says on the center stand (based on changing oil on a friends 2000 1100xx)

 

 

You are right. I found the service manual and the owners manual online. Warm engine on center stand.

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Might wanna check your manual,

Seems to me the manual says on the center stand (based on changing oil on a friends 2000 1100xx)

 

 

yep, you're right.

how convenient that they built a center stand for that purpose... I'll have to go home and see if it makes a difference between center stand and side stand... I've already checked hot to cold oil, and it makes zero difference on the dipstick.

 

I seem to remember checking center to side stand before, and IIRC it was the same reading because the dipstick hits pretty close to the center of the reservoir.

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On the CBR forum some kid filled the oil.  And I mean filled to the top.  He claimed it ran fine, but who knows.

 

I did that on my very first truck, dad said "fill it up" i thought he meant to the top...

 

Didn't hurt it, but it spit oil out the filler tube and coated the engine, smoked like hell for a while from under the hood, but ran fine.

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My service manual says to situate the bike vertical after warming up the engine to drain the oil.  Same position to check. Manual calls for 4.1 liters with filter change. 3.7 liters without filter change.  When would you not change the filter with an oil change?  So far 4.1 liters has been right on the money for me.   I sit on the bike and use a telescoping mirror to check the level. It takes me at least 3 or 4 tries at checking the level to make sure I'm not leaning the bike.   Not sure what the reading would be if it were on the rear stand. The service manual also says to have a Kawasaki technician perform the oil change.

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My service manual says to situate the bike vertical after warming up the engine to drain the oil.  Same position to check. Manual calls for 4.1 liters with filter change. 3.7 liters without filter change.  When would you not change the filter with an oil change?  So far 4.1 liters has been right on the money for me.   I sit on the bike and use a telescoping mirror to check the level. It takes me at least 3 or 4 tries at checking the level to make sure I'm not leaning the bike.   Not sure what the reading would be if it were on the rear stand. The service manual also says to have a Kawasaki technician perform the oil change.

 

Because they tend to filter a bit better and more effeciently to a point when they slightly start to restrict. I always change my oil filters every other change, and I also drain my oil cold as well. When I do it cold, I find that I tend to always put in what the spec calls for, unlike when I drain with the oil hot. My garage floor is pretty level where I park, and I have a centerstand which I use to measure my oil level. I keep my oil level even with the top line at all times, has served me well on every bike I have ever owned thus far.

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My bike gets oil in to the air box. I was told years ago it was because of a bad gasket somewhere along the lines. Is it possible that its over filled even being at just the full mark?

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My bike gets oil in to the air box. I was told years ago it was because of a bad gasket somewhere along the lines. Is it possible that its over filled even being at just the full mark?

 

Possible, but I really doubt it.  Drop it a 1/4 quart or half way between the full and add marks if you have both and see what happens.

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2005 Triumph Sprint ST Oil Checking Procedure:

 

Start the engine and run at idle for
approximately five minutes.
Stop the engine and wait for three minutes to
allow the oil to settle.
With the motorcycle upright, (not on side stand)

remove the filler
plug/dipstick, wipe the blade clean and screw
it fully home.
Remove the filler plug/dipstick.
The oil level is indicated by lines on the filler
plug/dipstick. When full, the indicated oil
level must be level with the upper marking
on the dipstick.
If the oil level is below the lower marking,
add oil a little at a time until the correct level
is reached. Once the correct level is reached,
re-fit the filler plug/dipstick.

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They can't even make this simple on the aircraft I fly. "Check the oil within 10 minutes of shutdown"...wait, was that WITHIN or AFTER 10 minutes? It's changed a couple times in the last 10 years I've been flying these four different types. If it's after, how long after? Does the lack of a CAS message constitute a valid check, or do I have to open panels? What if the ramp isn't level? What if I motor the engine, turn the plane around and the message goes away? Never mind the fact that they warn us that in certain cases, an over-full condition can lead to scavenging ALL the oil overboard...or servicing both motors on the same leg can lead to engine failure. Some of the Rolls Royce motors maintain oil levels at -2 pints, some at -4. Servicing a motor above where it wants to run means having oil all over the cowl and a drippy mess on the ramp.

Yep...I'll take a motorcycle any day.

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Because they tend to filter a bit better and more effeciently to a point when they slightly start to restrict. I always change my oil filters every other change, and I also drain my oil cold as well. When I do it cold, I find that I tend to always put in what the spec calls for, unlike when I drain with the oil hot. My garage floor is pretty level where I park, and I have a centerstand which I use to measure my oil level. I keep my oil level even with the top line at all times, has served me well on every bike I have ever owned thus far.

Same here, usually swap filters every other oil change and drop the oil cold as well. Haven't heard of too many others doing the same, so kudos for being as equally eclectic :D

I would assume over filling the pan could cause cavitation around moving parts, eventually starving them and possibly interfere with how the wash plates work with the flow in the pan? May even push some oil out of the cv tube ( case vent ) which would end up on the ground or in the airbox depending on how it's routed? :dunno: Fluid capacities are spec'd for a reason

Oh, and my service manual wants the bike upright with oil level towards the top of the sight glass' full mark. Wish mine used an actual dipstick so I could mark it accordingly to check it on the side stand, but the clutch basket would make quick work of it for sure :p

Edited by Hellmutt
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I did that on my very first truck, dad said "fill it up" i thought he meant to the top...

 

Didn't hurt it, but it spit oil out the filler tube and coated the engine, smoked like hell for a while from under the hood, but ran fine.

Depends on the vehicle. I had a cousin that took his relatively new Mazda to an oil change place and they proceeded to "sell" him a quart and a half more than he needed. The extra oil fouled out numerous sensors and ended up costing a couple hundred to correct.

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nothing to do with this thread but my wifes full size car (Impala) takes less oil thank my bike. :nono: still blows my mind.

I've thought the same thing. Though I have a couple cars now that take 5-6 quarts, I remember my dad's 400ci Firebird taking 4q, same as my CB.

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Isn't the running it before part to make sure the oil filters full, yet you wanna give it a minute or two to drain back down from the other parts.

To drain, ill do it cold sometimes by adding air to the fill hole to hurry it up. Depends what motor and how much I get burnt doing it hot.

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