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2013 Ford Eco Boost Question


Chrome

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1 minute ago, bowdog said:

now i am thinking i was fucked out of almost $800.

Not if it fixed the problem. You paid 800, yours works.  Chrome has paid to have his tires balanced and it is still broke.  :lol:

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If you're running goodyear tires get those fuckers off and put something else on.  As I said before there's not much you can do if you really have any kind of carbon build up on the valves but you can try to run some fuel additive and see what you get.

I'd say at this point if it didn't store any codes I'd not worry about that particular issue any longer.  My SHO didn't throw any codes either when it went into limp mode.  Don't sweat it and just drive it.

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This makes me very sad.  I so badly want an American branded truck, but they all suck.

Ford can not make a truck that doesn't need meads replaced as routine maintenance (remember the light saber spark plugs)

Dodge Ram will rust off the road in 2 years, if the transmission or rear end bearing make it that long.

GM motors blow up because even after 40 years of fucking with multiple cylinder displacement, they still can not get it right.  That's if the intake, head, water pump gaskets hold up long enough to miles on the motor.

Demoralizing

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Quality and dependability is set aside for lower production costs and market share.  I was always a GM fan, now I am just a GM/Pontiac classic car fan.  Will never own a Chrysler/GM/Ford for the same reasons listed in this thread.

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The ecoboost motors are all nifty with all fords chips in them, hybrids be damned they say. 

The most common problem is the carbon build up. Which is solved by using a low voc oil, such as the factory recommended oil or pennzoil platinum. Also using top tier gasoline is a must, absolutely no junk.

 

most of the problems could have been prevented if it wasn't for the damn EPA. mostly running an oil seperator in the pcv and breather lines would have kept any oil from building up due to blow by of a boosted motor. 

 

Also don't run an oiled air filter as they allow to much junk in and the oil from the filter to enter the engine and get built up on the valves and because it's DI there is no fuel going over the valves. Also not to mention how lean they have to run to keep the EPA happy.

 

Ford is working with someone to get a turbo same induction cleaning than can be introduced through the manifold to actually go over the valves, apparently current induction cleaning chemicals over heat the turbos and make them glow red from the heat.

 

i have no qualms about buying a ecoboost, I run it through the gears once a week, only use top tier fuel and switched out to a low voc oil at 750 miles, and once the warranty is up I'll be installing an oil seperator. I also plan on using Techron every 3,000 miles I the gas tank to keep the injectors and HPFP clean. Also once tunes become available for the US software I'll be doing that to let it run a little richer and not so lean.

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8 minutes ago, Tonik said:

No. And based on this thread, I'm damn glad I don't. :lol:

Only a matter of time. The Germans have had it a lot worse off than Ford. BMW had HPFP failures on pretty much every single car, so it was replace the pump, install new software and the the LP fuel sensors started going out after that. I left the field before I had a chance to learn anything about carbon on the valves but apparently it's not good, especially on people who never drive on the highway or run their car longer than 5 minutes.  

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I've already pointed out all of the important items regarding most EB motors as regurgitated by zx3 a couple times now.  Damn Ford and their EPA related bullshit...do the VTA mod or buy a separator and keep the carbon build up from becoming problematic.  You're not going to have a major mechanical failure because of either of those so just plug the stupid hoses backup as normal before taking it in for any service...problem solved.

I've been running both tuned EB car and truck for more than a year now.  Again, just put the stock tune back in before taking it in for service...problem solved.

Fuel additives don't really help shit.  Put your faith in those bottles if you want but I've never had to put them in anything I've ever owned...DI or not.

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And Whaler...you'll find shit about anything and everything.  I bet I could dig up tons of shit about Toyota trucks...or Nissan trucks.  So when I start posting up shit about those then what will you ever do!?!?  You'll probably need to start riding a bicycle because ALL cars and trucks made are shit.

I should hate Yamaha's because they can't even design a transmission on a brand new bike apparently.  I'm surprised you even own and ride one with all the problems they have.

Oh wait...I already do hate them (see my screen name). :nono:

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Thanks everyone for the feedback and knowledge on di Eco motors. I actually went in to advance auto today to get some techron cleaner and the guy tried to push sea foam on me. I told him what you guys have posted and he flat out told me that techron is junk and ford is full of shit. All they want you to run is junk so it breaks. I politely told him that's what I want and piss off. I asked him what he drives and then I walked off not waiting for his answer. I have cleaned it out a few time and have not had any issues since. I have also stopped in to pickups plus and they are going to give my truck a little pick me up. Oil separator, programmer, Dyno tuned with new intake. Should tune the motor a bit to run better. They are about 2 weeks out right now so I will keep you posted after that is done. R1crusher you have been very helpful, bowdog go back to ricart and get your money back, tonic thanks for the smartass remarks (and hippies drive subies), and everyone else who knows more about these motors than I ever will, thanks! 

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We've exchange many PM's and I told him to change them out.  Thanks for bringing it up in the thread though...it's sometimes overlooked.

 

Chrome...if you have any questions about getting your truck tuned please let me know (as I told you...both of my 3.5 EB's are tuned).  I have all my tuning done by a guy down in FL, Torrie from Unleashed Tuning.  Another excellent tune shop is in MI called Livernois Motorsports.  Both have a VERY good following and are well known for their tunes.  I will tell you right now that if your getting your tune on, have the plugs changed out and regap them down to .030 instead of the .035 of stock.  You need to close the gap down because of the boost increase you're going to see.  Livernois does not do any data logging but Unleashed does which is one of the reasons I went with Torrie.  I don't know if he's doing unlimited tune changes but most places will give you 2-3 different tunes...ex. a 87 octane performance tune, a 93 octane performance tune and a 87 tow/haul tune.  Just something to consider before you run out and tune.

 

Good luck and I think you'll be really surprised by the power increase as well as the bump in MPG that comes along with that (as long as you can keep you foot from turning to lead). :D

Edited by r1crusher
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