redkow97 Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 (edited) The same basic principles apply to all engines, so I figured I'd ask here. I replaced the $2.40 plug, but that's not hte issue. The new plug is not getting spark. I removed the engine cover, and the magnets on the flywheel and contacts are clean. I (stupidly) removed the coil(?) without regard for the gap between the flywheel and the coil... So now what? I don't want to just start replacing parts unnecessarily. I have not pulled the flywheel. if a new coil is only a few bucks, is that worth trying? Edited April 26, 2016 by redkow97 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 Was there electricity in the plug wire? That is the first thing to check. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimTheAzn Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 ^This. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helmutt Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 What model mower/engine? There are likely specs online to ohm out the coil's resistance to be sure it's good before putting it back together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Z. Heimer Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 If it is a Briggs go to their website. Manuals and trouble shooting avail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted April 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 it's a Weed Eater (that's the Kmart brand) 550 series, which (per the internet) uses a briggs and stratton engine. 550 series OHV 140cc. I don't have a volt meter to check the plug wire. Probably time to buy one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 2 minutes ago, redkow97 said: I don't have a volt meter to check the plug wire. Probably time to buy one... Stick a screwdriver in the plug wire, hold it close to the engine for a ground....just a little gap and pull the cord and watch for spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted April 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 why wouldn't the plug itself spark under the same conditions? it's a brand new plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 Ok, same difference. But that was info we didnt have before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 Had an idea. Most mowers have deadman switches now that cut the spark if you let go of the handle. If you have one of those check that, bypass it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted April 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 my deadman switch appears to stop the flywheel (thus stopping the blade) rather than simply cutting spark, but I will see if there's more to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Z. Heimer Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 There is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 Yea, a mechanical 'stop' on the flywheel alone would end up toasting the motor I would think. Breaking parts and so on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motocat12 Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 Does the plug wire cap make good contact. squeeze the metal clip with pliers, dielectriec grease on the plug top + ceramic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted April 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 (edited) 1 hour ago, Idiot said: Did you ever confirm the plug wire is good? Or did I miss that? Not yet. all i've really done is determine that it's NOT getting spark, and take it apart to expose the coil and the flywheel. prior to that, I replaced the gas and the spark plug. Wanted to try things in order of ease/cost before spending time diagnosing it further. Edited April 26, 2016 by redkow97 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted April 27, 2016 Report Share Posted April 27, 2016 (edited) Business card will work to gap the coil when you put it back together. Let the magnetism hold the card in place and tighten. Check the wires from the coil. Check the on/off switch areas. A lot of times a kill wire goes to a insulated metal tab near the throttle/carb area, even if you can't throttle it up and down because it's not designed that way, that metal tab that the wire is connected to should not touch any other metal unless you put it in the off position. Trace the wires from the coil. It's grounded out(kills the coil power) somewhere. Edited April 27, 2016 by Gump 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted May 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Well, I took the mower to the repair shop. Not worth fixing. So now the hunt for a new mower is on. I had a good used Husqvarna lined up for $165, but it was sold before I could get out to see it Now I'm debating a couple of options: 1) buy the cheapest CL mower I can find ($50-$100) and just accept the fact that it's going to break in the next 1-2 years, and be happy if it lasts beyond that. I could accomplish the same by spending $150-$250 on a low-quality new mower, but $100 is $100... or 2) Sink some money into a nicer, larger, higher-quality USED mower. These are the ones I'm currently looking at. Input appreciated: Craftsman/Kawasaki 179cc push mower for $150. 21 or 22" cut http://cleveland.craigslist.org/grd/5573006504.html Craftsman 33" push mower for $250. Needs gearbox work, but I assume I could do that myself. http://cleveland.craigslist.org/grd/5576928402.html Typical Honda push mower $250 http://cleveland.craigslist.org/grd/5576652033.html Caster-wheel Honda push mower $125 http://cleveland.craigslist.org/grd/5556787476.html 48" Ferris Mower (no pics, but awesome price) $125 http://cleveland.craigslist.org/grd/5540931524.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bad324 Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 If you want a cheap push mower my buddy is selling his in brecksville. I have no details but I can get you in touch with him if you want to go that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bad324 Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Also if you go wth the HRX line if you even have the slightest issue with the carb don't bother cleaning or fixing it. Just straight replace it. The part is like $30 and will save you months of headaches. I know from experience Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted May 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 meeting the guy selling the Craftsman professional series with the Kawasaki engine. It's a $600 mower everywhere I'm finding it online, so for $150, i'm comfortable taking a gamble on a used one. Plus the fact that this model is still being sold means it's either not very old, or it's proven reliable enough to keep selling... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 (edited) What did they say was wrong with it? Can't just leave us hanging... Most common scam/screw over I've seen is telling people it's not worth fixing when it has a slightly sheared flywheel key. Although then it has spark but runs like shit if at all and tears your arm off when trying to start it. $0.65 fix. Happens when you it a rock or root with the blade. How much you want for the old one? I need a beater mower. Detty or someone could bring it to a friends wedding that happens this weekend. Edited May 10, 2016 by Gump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 The coil is bad, and he was quoting $80 for the part, plus the labor to diagnose and install it. I could handle the install myself, but I didn't want to bother picking it up. I cut my losses and sold him the mower (for parts) for the $40 in time he had into it. Meeting the guy w/ the Kawasaki/Craftsman professional mower tonight, I hope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Z. Heimer Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Scotts Push Mower $80http://cleveland.craigslist.org/grd/5570025043.html via cPro for Craigslist iOS: http://tinyurl.com/CL-iDevice Android: http://tinyurl.com/CL-Android No gas no oil no spark no matter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowdog Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Going through the same thing now...I have a 46" Husqvarna that shut down while mowing, thought it was out of gas so added fuel and would not start. Checked everything and was getting gas and spark. Brother new a guy so he came over and said it had been running on one cylinder and the other went out and the mower has no compression. Asked my brother if i wanted him to take it to scrap. Don't know if it is worth putting a new motor in or rebuilding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 ha - i would actually really like to try one of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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