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Changes in oil, for example Rotella T6


Tonik

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35 minutes ago, Pokey said:

Slipping clutches due to oil is "almost" unheard of.

I could not run synthetic in my TL or it would slip, always had to run Dino oil. But they are known to have shit clutches to begin with.

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I once put STP in my bike. Yeah.. the opposite of slip, it wouldn't ever let go. Had to flush a few oil changes through, and pull the clutch plates and clean them up. Live and learn the hard way.

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  • 2 weeks later...
14 hours ago, motocat12 said:

Anybody try Quicksilver /mercury4 stroke synth? A couple bucks more than t6. labeled as Jaso, not on the above doc

Interesting. But only see 10w30 in dino and 25w40 and 25w50 in synthetic. Not seeing a 10w40 anywhere.

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On 3/13/2017 at 0:22 PM, Casper said:

Just checked the Castrol Power RS Racing 4T and it's still JASO MA2. All good in this hood. 

Amazon has a deal for 25% off of Castrol Power1 4T which is JASO MA2. I almost ordered 6 quarts for $39 before tax. Advance Auto Parts has it for $7.50. (I decided to just get 3 quarts there, but it's out of stock in a bunch of stores.) They also have Valvoline 4T for $8.

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On 3/13/2017 at 1:05 PM, 2talltim said:

OK doing a little research it looks like they just added one to their product line called "Rotella T6 multi vehicle" and still carry the regular "Rotella T6". The multi vehicle does not have the JASO MA1 or MA2 standards but the the old T6 looks like it still does. That was a quick search still need to look deeper into it.

I think my old bottles only show JASO MA. I guess that's a combination of MA1 and MA2?

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On 3/28/2017 at 10:34 AM, ReconRat said:

Interesting. But only see 10w30 in dino and 25w40 and 25w50 in synthetic. Not seeing a 10w40 anywhere.

I saw Quicksilver 5W-40 synthetic for ATV's at Walmart. I even took a photo of it. heh

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23 minutes ago, hiro said:

I think my old bottles only show JASO MA. I guess that's a combination of MA1 and MA2?

No, MA is a specific spec with a broad range of criteria.  MA1 and MA2 are further refinements of the original MA spec with a smaller range of criteria.

http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/JASO_MA_JASO_MB.php

 

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5 hours ago, Tonik said:

No, MA is a specific spec with a broad range of criteria.  MA1 and MA2 are further refinements of the original MA spec with a smaller range of criteria.

http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/JASO_MA_JASO_MB.php

 

 

5 hours ago, hiro said:

I think my old bottles only show JASO MA. I guess that's a combination of MA1 and MA2?

Mostly yes, it's MA. Either it's an oil that didn't quite fit into MA1 or MA2 by spec, or it's actually an old bottle of MA oil, from before the time of the new specs. lol. The JASO docs actually say that is what they do with oil that is somewhere between MA1 and MA2. They give it the MA designation. Still quite acceptable oil, unless there is a need to stick with MA2 specs for a catalytic converter. Dunno about that. I got one, but don't care one way or the other. Maybe I should. Again, dunno...

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What I noticed using T6 for two oil changes, it turns dark quick. It also seem watery when drained. I don't like how the engine sounds, but not having a lot of experience, maybe it sounds normal. There are times when I thought the clutched slipped a little on hard acceleration. Again, maybe it's just me. I'm ready to try an oil made for bikes.

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On 4/3/2017 at 4:50 PM, hiro said:

What I noticed using T6 for two oil changes, it turns dark quick. It also seem watery when drained. I don't like how the engine sounds, but not having a lot of experience, maybe it sounds normal. There are times when I thought the clutched slipped a little on hard acceleration. Again, maybe it's just me. I'm ready to try an oil made for bikes.

Oil that streams out like water, with lots of dripping, instead of a viscous stream that sticks together, is a no-no signal to me. It means the viscosity is gone-gone. Chewed up by the gear train. I look for something that will hold up better. Turning dark means it's holding the contaminants like it should. Dark is a signal to change oil. If there's a lot of it and/or too soon, I'd wonder about the oil filter. Either dirty and bypassing, or goofing up and bypassing. Definitely, some filters work better than others. Unconfirmed, is that the extra filtration in some premium filters, causes unwanted back pressure, resulting in an unwanted bypass of the filter. Something like it might even happen with the wrong weight of oil. Dark oil can also be combustion bypassing the rings into the oil. Always check oil to see if it smells like gasoline. It should not. Gasoline will also drop the viscosity rather quickly. Goofed up fuel shutoffs are also a source of that on carb bikes.

Edited by ReconRat
derp
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11 hours ago, ReconRat said:

Oil that streams out like water, with lots of dripping, instead of a viscous stream that sticks together, is a no-no signal to me. It means the viscosity is gone-gone. Chewed up by the gear train. I look for something that will hold up better. Turning dark means it's holding the contaminants like it should. Dark is a signal to change oil. If there's a lot of it and/or too soon, I'd wonder about the oil filter. Either dirty and bypassing, or goofing up and bypassing. Definitely, some filters work better than others. Unconfirmed, is that the extra filtration in some premium filters, causes unwanted back pressure, resulting in an unwanted bypass of the filter. Something like it might even happen with the wrong weight of oil. Dark oil can also be combustion bypassing the rings into the oil. Always check oil to see if it smells like gasoline. It should not. Gasoline will also drop the viscosity rather quickly. Goofed up fuel shutoffs are also a source of that on carb bikes.

If its like my bike, and takes 5W40, the viscosity is damn near water when cold, whether the oil is new or old!

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2 hours ago, JustinNck1 said:

You should see the 0W20 my Accord uses.

My old man Siverado takes that too, his might be 0W30. He told me he wasn't going to use it because the thinks it's too thin(old school thinking). I said, Don't tell me when you motor takes a crap then because with too many col start ups it will. He just dose not understand how it work even though ive tried to explain.

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7 hours ago, Qman said:

If its like my bike, and takes 5W40, the viscosity is damn near water when cold, whether the oil is new or old!

True. Multi-weight gains it's viscosity when warm/hot. Not when cold. I should have made that more clear.

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10 hours ago, Qman said:

If its like my bike, and takes 5W40, the viscosity is damn near water when cold, whether the oil is new or old!

That's what it was, 5W-40 and on the cooler side. The newer, two-years older bike is getting 10W-40. This time it wasn't as dark or thin as last time. I did notice some fuel odour before.

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