8Rider6 Posted August 2, 2018 Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 It's time my brakes should be flushed and new fluid replaced. I've never done it myself. The extent of maintenance I've done on my bike (919) has been oil changes, chain tension adjustment/lubing, clutch cable lubing, and replacing the pads once. I had the original front lines replaced with steel braided not long after I got the bike. Other than that, I've had Hoblick do any of the more major work on it. How difficult is this to do and what equipment is required (front and back)? I have a sealed bottle of DOT4 I've had for a few years. Should it be fine if it's sealed, or could moisture still have built up from garage storage? And particular brake line bleeder recommendations? Now that I have a nice new(er) FJR which I'll have maintained elsewhere at least the first 2-3 years, I'd like to get to doing much more work on the 919 myself to learn and if it takes more time, then I still have something else to ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimTheAzn Posted August 2, 2018 Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 It's not hard. You need a box wrench that'll fit the bleeder, some hose that will fit the bleeder nipple and something to catch the fluid you flush. I'd shoot for a clear hose so you can see if air bubbles are there. Many many videos online that tell you what to do. Unless you have some kind of abs system it shouldn't be a big ordeal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly Posted August 2, 2018 Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 Where are you located? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted August 2, 2018 Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV8000-Automotive-Tune-up-Bleeding/dp/B00265M9SS?crid=2N13OUJXMZJ8M&keywords=mityvac+brake+bleeder&qid=1533228038&sprefix=mityvac&sr=8-3&ref=mp_s_a_1_3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8Rider6 Posted August 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 12 minutes ago, Pauly said: Where are you located? Sounds good then, thanks for the replies, doesn't seem too daunting. Now it's got me thinking I should do a coolant flush too. Pauly, I'm in New Albany/NE Columbus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted August 2, 2018 Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 It’s not bad at all. I try to do mine annually. Bought a hand vac like Tonik posted above, and made it sooo much easier/faster. And I don’t need my wife to help anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimTheAzn Posted August 2, 2018 Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 3 hours ago, 8Rider6 said: Sounds good then, thanks for the replies, doesn't seem too daunting. Now it's got me thinking I should do a coolant flush too. Pauly, I'm in New Albany/NE Columbus. Coolant flush is easier than bleeding brakes imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-Mac Posted August 2, 2018 Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 3 hours ago, Tonik said: https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV8000-Automotive-Tune-up-Bleeding/dp/B00265M9SS?crid=2N13OUJXMZJ8M&keywords=mityvac+brake+bleeder&qid=1533228038&sprefix=mityvac&sr=8-3&ref=mp_s_a_1_3 That Item was marketed as a Man Pump back in the early 90's. I got one back when my junk was showing signs of wear and tear, slow response. You too eh. I finely gave up and got married at 47 and have been using it for break bleeding ever since. i guess they rebranded it. Man Pump by 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motocat12 Posted August 2, 2018 Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 One tip I like is to wrap teflon tape around the base of the bleeder before you crack it to prevent air from getting sucked in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mello dude Posted August 2, 2018 Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 8 hours ago, 8Rider6 said: It's time my brakes should be flushed and new fluid replaced. I've never done it myself. The extent of maintenance I've done on my bike (919) has been oil changes, chain tension adjustment/lubing, clutch cable lubing, and replacing the pads once. I had the original front lines replaced with steel braided not long after I got the bike. Other than that, I've had Hoblick do any of the more major work on it. How difficult is this to do and what equipment is required (front and back)? I have a sealed bottle of DOT4 I've had for a few years. Should it be fine if it's sealed, or could moisture still have built up from garage storage? And particular brake line bleeder recommendations? Now that I have a nice new(er) FJR which I'll have maintained elsewhere at least the first 2-3 years, I'd like to get to doing much more work on the 919 myself to learn and if it takes more time, then I still have something else to ride. Well you know, first you have to pass the brake mechanix coordination test.... Stand with your feet shoulder width apart. Next bend over to hands on the ground and your on all fours. Then kick your right leg out..... Next bark...... Got that far? Yup you pass. --Ok its silly but just to say its ez. 😁 All kidding aside, go buy speed bleeders and replace the stockers. It make it waaaaay easier on the bleed and generally you can skip needing a pump. Also go steal your wife turkey baster, It's used to suck all the fluid out of the reservoirs. Do that first and clean the shit outta each, paper towel the inside, then hit the nasty corners with Qtips. Clean! Clean! Clean! Then go from there and refill. You can now just pump clean fluid thru to the new speedbleeders, a little at a time, of course with plastic hose attached. (think Lowes, cheap). Another cheapo step could be with a punched hole in a jam jar, with the plastic hose fed in, so you can watch for bubbles. - (I have the Mityvac plastic containers) You can feeeeel when you are pumping good fluid and tighten up the speed bleeders. Its simple, but very basic is what you need. http://www.speedbleeder.com/ GL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mello dude Posted August 2, 2018 Report Share Posted August 2, 2018 Adding --- on Last tip- once you got good pressure and speed bleeders tight, pull your lever back and lock the brakes with a zip tie and let sit over nite. All air will travel to the top of the reservoir, your lever will be solid, better than before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinNck1 Posted August 3, 2018 Report Share Posted August 3, 2018 Mighty Vac is your friend. If you ever want to flush the FJR brakes, let me know and I can show you to get the abs module in flush mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motocat12 Posted August 3, 2018 Report Share Posted August 3, 2018 (edited) My clear tygon hose came in the mail. I have a new excuse to flush. Edited August 3, 2018 by motocat12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimTheAzn Posted August 3, 2018 Report Share Posted August 3, 2018 24 minutes ago, motocat12 said: My clear tygon hose came in the mail. I have a new excuse to flush. And change the hose from the reservoir to the master so you can check the fluid on the fly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8Rider6 Posted August 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2018 (edited) I did this Sunday with my brother in law. I bought the Mitivac 8500, but we had difficulties with it. It seems like it wasn't sealing well where the nozzle fit into the bleeder valve. When trying vacuum the fluid out, a small amount was coming out at the base of the bleeder valve on the caliper. A different nozzle may have fit better, but would've required removing the front fender. We end up using his cheap harbor freight bleed-o-matic kit and doing it the manual way. That worked fine. The front lines weren't too bad, still a noticeable improvement, but the rear was long overdue, feels way better now. Definitely something I'll do every couple years at least. We were going to do the radiator flush, but it does necessitate taking the gas tank off, the filler neck is under the tank. We partially removed the tank to have a look and discovered the filler neck was partially cracked and whoever did it (likely by twisting and pushing away from the bike) tried to repair it with some plastic filler. We decided to wait on it until I get a new OEM filler neck to replace it with. Edited August 21, 2018 by 8Rider6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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