staywide8 Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 I just purchased a fully built turbo motor for my neon, and I was wondering the correct way to break it in. Some friends suggested after install to pull the wires to the plugs, crank it couple times and then fire it up. After that they thought I should go out and pretty much beat the hell out of it for about 20 miles and then change the oil... Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 uh i have never heard that advice before, most people take it easy for at LEAST 500 miles, some more than that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest timmybgood Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 is it a brand new engine or is it used but new to you? used- if its been sitting a while, unplug the dist and crank it a few times after you put oil in to let it circulate. then change the oil and filter after about 500 miles then again after another 1000. also coolant. if you put a new clutch in take it easy for the first 500 miles new- well i don't know, i've never had a new engine, but i know there are proper break in procedures that don't involve beating on it for 20 minutes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 need more info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
staywide8 Posted December 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 Its an engine that had about 20000 on it.. the guy took it out and rebuilt it with je pistons, total seal rings, eagle rods, new oil pump and all that good stuff...so it has been used but not since the rebuild...just wondering how i should treat it from start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rl Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 Originally posted by staywide8: Its an engine that had about 20000 on it.. the guy took it out and rebuilt it with je pistons, total seal rings, eagle rods, new oil pump and all that good stuff...so it has been used but not since the rebuild...just wondering how i should treat it from start Total seal rings and turbos dont go well together, I really prefer a file fit ring in that type of application, especially with forged pistons. That being said total seals makes a NICE file fit ring, they have a really high quality control so you end up with a nice product. If the top ring is chromoly, which I assume it is, then the best (only) way to get them to seat correctly is with cylinder pressure. With a turbo car I normally put a small spring in the wastegate and use part throttle pulls to seat the rings, like 2,000-5,000 rpm, in second gear then engine brake down. You want to be sure to vary RPM, dont go on a long highway drive, for the first couple hundered miles. After that change the oil and put the boost back up to where it should be and you'll be good to go assuming its tuned correctly. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
still2hi Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 take it easy dont beat on it!if someone has put any new internals in it, they need to wear down. there are usually paper work that comes with the new internals to what you need to do. if you dont have any paper work, try to contact the company. if i were in your sistuation and could not find any paper work on it, then this is what i would do. i would get the engine running and let it idle for about 20 mins around 1500 to 2000 rpms. then i would take it real easy for the next 100 to 200 miles. then i would vary the rpm range, but dont go all out. around 200 - 300 miles i would do an oil/filter change. check the oil after you dump it to make sure you dont have an extreme amount of metal flake in it. you will have alittle bit. also check fluid levels alot, during your break in process. also watch your gauges closely. i have never owned a neon, nor worked on one. but this is pretty much what i do on every rebuild. edit: make sure you do turn it over a few times with distributor unplugged, to be sure oil is everywhere. i would pull of the valve cover and watch that oil is getting to the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate1647545505 Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 Originally posted by staywide8: I just purchased a fully built turbo motor for my neon, and I was wondering the correct way to break it in. Some friends suggested after install to pull the wires to the plugs, crank it couple times and then fire it up. After that they thought I should go out and pretty much beat the hell out of it for about 20 miles and then change the oil... Any thoughts?Leave the wires and plugs alone, pull the fuel pump fuse and if you have the option, pull the fuse for the ICM. (Thats what your also helping br cranking it over with no fuel or spark, hence you remove them from the motor) [ 02. December 2004, 09:05 PM: Message edited by: Sunny D-light ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rl Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 Originally posted by still2high: take it easy dont beat on it!if someone has put any new internals in it, they need to wear down. there are usually paper work that comes with the new internals to what you need to do. if you dont have any paper work, try to contact the company. if i were in your sistuation and could not find any paper work on it, then this is what i would do. i would get the engine running and let it idle for about 20 mins around 1500 to 2000 rpms. then i would take it real easy for the next 100 to 200 miles. then i would vary the rpm range, but dont go all out. around 200 - 300 miles i would do an oil/filter change. check the oil after you dump it to make sure you dont have an extreme amount of metal flake in it. you will have alittle bit. also check fluid levels alot, during your break in process. also watch your gauges closely. i have never owned a neon, nor worked on one. but this is pretty much what i do on every rebuild. It takes cylinder pressure to seat rings, they are the only "wear" item on a modern engine that needs to be broken in (read MODERN, NOT a flat tappet cam). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
still2hi Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 ive only built older motors, so i never knew this. so it doesnt need to go through the process of letting it idle? thanks for correcting me. i still dont believe he should beat the hell out of it for 20 mins right away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rl Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 Originally posted by Sunny D-light: On startup people usually rev the the motor to 2,000rpm or so to get oil through the valve train atad quicker. Are you fucking high? Jesus christ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rl Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 Originally posted by still2high: ive only built older motors, so i never knew this. so it doesnt need to go through the process of letting it idle? thanks for correcting me. i still dont believe he should beat the hell out of it for 20 mins right away. No, you dont break the cam in unless it is all new and non-roller, his engine has followers and not tappets so the break in is different. Its good practice to start it,let it idle and warm to operating temp at idle, kill it, let it cool, change the oil then go seat the rings and change the oil again at 500 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate1647545505 Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 Originally posted by rl: Are you fucking high? Jesus christWish I was, but that was the process I witnessed with two BMW motors that were forged and rebuilt. The quote has been removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwishiwascool Posted December 9, 2004 Report Share Posted December 9, 2004 Originally posted by rl: No, you dont break the cam in unless it is all new and non-roller, his engine has followers and not tappets so the break in is different. Its good practice to start it,let it idle and warm to operating temp at idle, kill it, let it cool, change the oil then go seat the rings and change the oil again at 500 miles.This is the best way to have the best ring seat. It is silly to go easy on a modern, high tollerance motor. The only difference you might consider is using relatively low boost levels to further increase cylinder pressure. I ran about 14lbs when breaking in my forged motor. After start up I did 30 minutes of freeway pulls followed by aggressive engine braking. Dont forget to engine brake each time. This is one of the most important aspects to remember to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPLN SUX Posted December 9, 2004 Report Share Posted December 9, 2004 BRAND NEW ENGINE: 1. 20min warm up - idel 2. 10min preload ring sealer - 2500rpm NO LOAD! 3. 500miles @ < 3000rpm 4. oil change 5. 1000miles @ < 4000rpm 6. oil change 7. beat the hell out of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPLN SUX Posted December 12, 2004 Report Share Posted December 12, 2004 i shoud also mention that OEM motors that i break in this way dont usualy last more than 25k miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Automotive Posted December 19, 2004 Report Share Posted December 19, 2004 break in the engine how its going to be treated. every engine i have built (drag racing) thats how i broke them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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