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I'm starting my project next month. Volunteers?


MrMeanGreen

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Geeze, ya bunch a no tool havin tools.

 

Anthony, you can come get the hoist from me. It will fit in the blazer with no problem. As far as an engine stand. If you go pickup 4 steel wheels, two that are fixed and two that spin, I will assemble a stand that you can use. I am getting ready to build one but I don't have wheels. You get em and I will let you use the stand as long as you need it.

 

Plastigage, anyone else want to put in some redneck advice? Fuck it, just gap it with a matchbook cover. It will be fine..... NOT!

 

I have the inside and outside micrometers, depth micrometers and all that other shit that you will need to PROPERLY measure the clearances of the motor. Let me know when you need them and I will bring them over, and show you how to use them/do the measuring for you.

 

I know I sound like an ass here but shit, he ain't slapping together a 4 banger for a fucking beater here.

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As most of you know, I'm doing a forged 347 buildup on the Formula for the winter. I eventually plan on running a turbo kit, but for now, will stick with the Procharger setup. I'm trying to see just how much power a P-1 can make.

 

Anyways. I'm going to pull the engine next month and start on it's disassembly for the new internals. I will be keeping the stock crank, albeit having it balanced and polished. I will be running Diamond forged pistons, 8.5:1 compression ratio. I'll also be using forged rods, ARP rod bolts, and Clevite bearings. The 6.0L heads I have now will be ported and polished, and I'll also be using the LPE/Weiand intake I picked up last month which IPS has now for some polishing and powercoating. I'll also run a hefty cam, somewhere in the 228/234, .595/.595, 114lsa area. My stall will be back, now at a 3800 and 2.3str, along with a freshly rebuilt Stage IV tranny from Berberich.

 

However, I've never undertaken an engine rebuild before. I have all of the 1998-specific GM service manuals for the F-Body, along with the tools and resources (minus an engine hoist). I will need help this winter removing the engine and tearing it apart. After it gets back from the machine shop, I'll need assistance re-assembling it and getting it back into the car.

 

That being said, there's beer and food in it, along with my charming personality :)

 

Again, this won't be for another month yet, but I'd like to get this out now so people have plenty of notice.

 

Thanks :nod:

 

Trailer the car to my shop, I have a real engine hoist. None of the pussy cherry pickers. Mine can lift your car

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hmmm funny I have a Toyota TSRM right here that says to use plasticgage to measure oil clearances. Yeah Toyota must be "redneck". Clevite must be redneck too since they tell you to plastigage right on there website.

 

Yes you can measure and do the math (Subtracting journal diameter from the bearings ID.) but there is nothing wrong with plastigage. I like to do both.

 

Oh and the irony of that coming from you. One of the biggest hill jacks I know.

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hmmm funny I have a Toyota TSRM right here that says to use plasticgage to measure oil clearances. Yeah Toyota must be "redneck". Clevite must be redneck too since they tell you to plastigage right on there website.

 

Yes you can measure and do the math (Subtracting journal diameter from the bearings ID.) but there is nothing wrong with plastigage. I like to do both.

 

Oh and the irony of that coming from you. One of the biggest hill jacks I know.

 

I know that several manufactures recomend plasitgage for clearances on STOCK engines. But then look at the range of acceptable clearances in a stock engine.

And let me get this straight, you use plastigage, then you use micrometers???

And if that is the case, how many times have they been different?

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Who cares, this is a GM Corporate engine.

 

So yeah, things are moving along nicely. Midwest called and said my stall is in great condition, and they're bumping it up to 3800 and 2.2str. The tranny is where the material in the pan came from, so it's being redone. I've already scored some billet servos for it. Away we go :)

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my advice is spend some extra money (oh lord not extra money) and have a good machinist assemble the short block the most likely canidate would be whoever you have balance the reciprocating assembly. I'm not going to recomend a shop becuase everyone has a favorite do some research and the pick the one that best suits your application you'll be far happier with the results of your project.

 

good luck !

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Yea a couple days notice and if you dont get a lift and what not to drop out the engine ill show ya how the unfortunate guy with out a proper lift will get it out in their garage :):) just gimme atleast 24hr notice man

 

T-guages and micrometers>plasti-gage +1

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Hey I got a lift sitting in the garage. And I just wrapped up my engine saturday. Let me know when your going to pull yours and I'll bring it over if you need it. I'll probably need it back soon after cause were always working on something, somewhere. But I can get it back if you need it anytime.
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I know that several manufactures recomend plasitgage for clearances on STOCK engines. But then look at the range of acceptable clearances in a stock engine.

And let me get this straight, you use plastigage, then you use micrometers???

And if that is the case, how many times have they been different?

 

I mic'd then plastigaged. Basically to double check. Plus it only takes 5 mins to do.

 

As far as I can remember there were no significant differences.

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It'll be in my garage, so no lift :)

 

Anyone familiar with the LSx family of engines have any recommendations on forged rods? Stock stroke and 6.125" circumference.

 

Just use whatever MTI, HPE, LME use, that's what I would do.

 

Just a little advice, have someone build your shortblock for you that has done a few LS1's. I know the idea of completely building your own motor from the ground up sounds great and I thought about doing that too, but if you did something wrong and the motor huffs, a lot of money down the drain...

 

Experience is the key, use your resources wisely...

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Check out Texas Speed and Performance if you want to buy a pre-assembled forged shortblock. I believe they have forged 347s for around $2,500. There was a post on Corvetteforum that listed a lot of the companys that made forged shortblocks, what they included, displacement, and the price. I believe Texas speed had the cheapest. All of them had pretty high quality parts they were using as well. This was $2,500 with no core charge, I believe. I'll look around and see if I can dig up that thread.
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