What Air lid or intake for a 98 WS6

[clayton006]

Hello all.

(if this needs to be moved to Tech Help then please do, just asking for an opinion so now sure where this goes)

 

I'd like to know if I need to change my stock air lid or get some other type of intake for my WS6. I'm having IPS install a set of long tubes and y-pipe and tune and I'd like to let the car breathe a little bit. What should I get to compliment that setup? I'll eventually be getting an LSX intake manifold with a TB to go with it when I get ready for my Heads/cam.

 

Some people are saying to get the SLP air lid since I have a WS6 and obviously the hood works. Not sure what I should go with?

 

And I should have the free ram-air mod done as well correct?

 

Thanks for the input!

[Draco-REX]

Wow, this is straight out of ten-years-ago for me. Back then, the SLP lid and free ram air mod were the things to do. There was even one company that made an airbox lid that was clear.

[V8 Beast]

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i89/xxtheonlyxx/Picture606.jpg

 

I like the clear, but the gains are similar across the board..

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/index.php?cPath=235_89_65&osCsid=2ef698662d571542c501575a852d60e2

[clayton006]

So really the SLP lid or the clear one will work just as well? And I'm assuming that is a yes on the free ram air mod?

 

In other words, with a lid and mod, it will be an improvement over stock?

 

EDIT: I should say, an improvement, with those Kookhs (sp?) long tubes, a SLP loudmouth and a tune?

[Draco-REX]

If I remember correctly:

 

The lid helps because you no longer have those silencer growths hanging off the airpath and causing turbulence. So one lid is going to work much the same as another.

 

The free Ram Air mod is good for the non-WS6 models because of the smaller opening at the front of the airbox, and lack of hood intake. The WS6 models have a much larger front opening, plus the hood intakes, so it isn't as big of a deal. You will heat-soak when stationary as warm air from your radiator will rise into the intake. But the moment you get moving, you'll ingest cool air again.

 

The LS1 loves to breathe, so I felt that anything to help that is a good thing. So I'd probably do both. But also remember that this is 10 year old expereince talking. Any updates/improvements in the last decade I'm not familiar with. For example, removing the flow straightener infront of the MAF was considered a good mod at one point. Now I know how wrong that is.

[schmuckingham]

I am happy with the Blackwing on my Dads C5

[Linn1647545492]

Granatelli has some of the best HP and TQ pick ups. You can also pull the sicker off and make the car look "stock"

[Linn1647545492]

I would also read this artical about budget packages

 

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/features/0703gm_budget_performance_parts/index.html

[Ramsey]

read the stickies on ls1tech.

[Johny Utah]

I had the MTI clear lid on mine. Those are sweet.

[Chadz89GTA]

A lid is a Lid is a Lid. They all do the same thing and gains will be for the most part, the same. ANY lid will be better then the stock one.

[lawnman]

buy the clear lid , it just looks too cool !

[V8 Beast]

I'll go take an up to date pic...

 

BRB

[clayton006]

Thanks for the info everyone. I looked at the packages (didn't see the stickies in ls1tech, not sure which subform you were referring to) and it looks like 350-370 HP at the crank is possible with the Kookhs 1 7/8 headers, slp loudmouth cat-back, SLP or MTI lid, and a good tune. That sound about right?

[Ramsey]

C. Bolt-Ons

 

Bolt ons are any part that assists in the making of power, that does not touch oil. It is common knowledge that they are the starting point in modding your car, so the fact that you should complete your bolt-ons should go without saying. Let's look at some of them and what they do.

 

Lid:

A lid replaces your stock lid, which was designed with comfort, not power, in mind. Simply put, an aftermarket lid does not have the restrictive air silencing fins and baffle found on the stocker. It allows more air in, and is a "must do first or second" mod. A lid is a lid, don't ask which one is best.

 

Cold Air (Ram Air):

The factory placement of the lid is poor for two reasons: the amount of space that air has to get into the lid is minimal; and placing it right on top of the radiator all but insures that you will have hot air entering your motor. A cold air (or ram air) kit fixes both of these problems. Either drawing cool air from under the car, or sealing your factory ram air to the cool outside air. Both methods ensure that enough air is getting in, and that the air that gets in is not hot.

 

Headers:

Headers replace your stock exhaust manifolds. They assist in the evacuation of spent gasses from your heads. They do this two ways: 1. first, they are free-flowing, which is to say they do not restrict exhaust flow in the slightest. 2. being free-flowing is not enough - GOOD header designs take it one step further by creating something know as the "scavenging effect"; that is, the flow of one header primary as it travels to the collector, creates a void or vacuum in the other primaries, effectively sucking out the exhaust as it is released from the head. I have always preferred "steeped" headers, for this very reason. Steeped header primaries get larger as you move away from the head's exhaust port. This greatly increases the scavenging effect, and increases your power potential.

 

Underdrive Pulleys:

Most commonly the crank pulley; it is simply a smaller pulley. 1. The rotational mass of the pulley is less, and therefore lighter and easier for your motor to turn. 2. It effectively reduces the amount of power required to turn the rest of the accessories, much like shifting to a lower gear.

 

Electric Water Pump:

Following hand in hand with the underdrive pulley, the electric waterpump gives the motor one less accessory it has to turn, thereby freeing up a few more HP. Although there is debate as to how much, no-one (who isn't a moron) disputes that it does free up at least SOME amount of HP.

 

Manual Rack-And-Pinion Steering:

Along the same lines, the MRAPS gets rid of yet another accessory, thereby freeing up power. It also weighs considerably less then the stock power steering system.

 

Exhaust Systems:

While there is A LOT of bullshit that flies around the Internet about "this exhaust sounds better then that one", this post is not for posers who want to whine about rasp. The very best-flowing exhaust there is, is a true dual X-pipe or H-pipe setup, with or without bullet mufflers. The next best thing is a cutout in the I-pipe. No cat-back out-flows a cutout; no Y-pipe setup out-flows true duals. Period.

 

Intake and Throttle Body:

I put these together because much like heads and cam, they should be matched. Again all bullshit aside, the best is the LSX 90mm intake and a 90mm throttle body. They are very expensive. A cost-effective second place is the LS6 intake and a ported stock TB. Either of these two choices are worth it, and have been dyno-proven time and again.

[V8 Beast]

I dont like LS1tech all that much anymore. Of all the issues I have had with my car they have only helped me diagnose one (and that was after making 3 threads about it) .

 

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i89/xxtheonlyxx/Picture628.jpg

 

I say get the aftermarket lid (you really cant go wrong so pic any one). Since you have ram air you do not need the air dam, and stay with the factory paper filter. K&N's are really not worth the money for the microscopic hp gain.

 

Oh yeah... BTW... get a cam!!!!!

[clayton006]

The cam will come, just need to pay off this debt first. Then it will be heads and cam time! But I'll need to save up for the LSX and TB before I go with the setup.

 

Thanks a lot for the above posts.

[Cordell]

I have a SLP lid didn't notice any real measurable difference, but I have seen multiple dyno test that say a few hp, not much differnce from lid to lid either. The LSX intake is by far a great intake, but if you are on a budget like me you could keep your eyes open for a used LS6 intake, a deffinate improvement and stealthy but just a suggestion. oh and I don't beleive in K&N filters anymore either, very small improvement if any, I run a cut up paper filter at the track which was good for at least a tenth over the dirty K&N.

Personally I would spend some money in the cam department if you want to see some real improvement, the factory intake and heads are still really efficient compared to alot other engines and manufactures out there, so a power adder or cam, and these cars love a free flowing exhaust, will give you the best bang for the buck until you can build a really big combination.

[thorne]

I dremeled my lid out on my old camaro.

[Scotty2Hotty]

Free mods: De-screen your MAF, and cut out the bottom of your stock box. Use a dremel tool, and open it up.