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Jeep Wrangler: What to look for...


TheHaze

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I'm looking at a lifted Jeep Sahara tomorrow, but I'm unsure what to look for. It's a '99 with 90k miles. It seems extremely clean and well taken care of, but the fact that it's lifted and has other suspension mods makes me feel somewhat uneasy. What are some typical things to look at on these? What should I pay attention to when test driving it?
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97-06 TJ model main differences ALL TJ's were 4wd none came with power windows or locks. All had command trac transfer cases with 2wheel, Neutral 4hi and 4lo

 

SE stripped 4cyl.

 

X came in later in the TJ life cycle. Bridged the gap between the 6 cylinder sport and 4 cyl SE. It had the I6 but generally had less options than the sport. Usually steel wheels, no foglamps. less options and a generally lower price point than the sport.

 

Sport 6cyl Just a higher trim level, usually had nice 15 inch wheels

 

Sahara 6 cyl body color side fender flares and usually had the step. Usually had all the options.

 

Ruby 6 cyl locking diffs and bigger tires stock. 16 inch wheels. This model became available mid generation. It got slightly less mpg (very slightly, like 18hwy instead of 19) Ruby's could be optioned with just about anything.

 

http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=883112

 

Its a FAQ for TJ noobs.

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Looking at the autotrader ad, there's a few things I would mention to get them to lower the price. The rear "bumperettes" are worthless. There is no carpet and there should be a back seat. The front seats don't look like stock sahara seats. Saharas came with seats like these most commonly, but I did find pics of one with similar seats so I might be wrong.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u&car_id=237523474&dealer_id=617730&car_year=1998&model=WRANGLER&num_records=25&systime=&make2=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&start_year=1997&keywordsfyc=&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=both&distance=25&marketZipError=false&search_lang=en&showZipError=n&first_record=51&make=JEEP&keywords_display=&color=&scarid=250484918&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&seller_type=b&max_mileage=&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceDESC&address=43017&advanced=&end_year=2006&pager.offset=50&doors=&transmission=&max_price=&cardist=11

 

SWB jeeps have short driveshafts. Too large of a lift without going to a CV driveshaft can cause problems with vibes and diffs as was previously mentioned.

 

I also forgot to include the LJ unlimited that was just a longer wheelbase.

 

One more thing, if you test drive it be sure to take it on the highway. The bigger tires rob power on the freeway big time if they didn't do a gear change.

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Looking at the autotrader ad, there's a few things I would mention to get them to lower the price. The rear "bumperettes" are worthless. There is no carpet and there should be a back seat. The front seats don't look like stock sahara seats. Saharas came with seats like these most commonly, but I did find pics of one with similar seats so I might be wrong.

So just at a quick look-over without driving, does it appear okay? If everything turns out fine when I drive it, what would be a good starting point for negotiating price?

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holy ugly fawkin body lift batman! looks like that thing drove through quadratec with the crap magnet on.

 

not trying to ruin your day, but the springs are saggy as hell, the rear bumperettes say 1980, and the body lift is queer.

 

I paid less for my 98 TJ when I bought it in 2001. Keep looking. If you need hel-p, I know of several sitting around. and for reference here is an old pic of my junk.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/lugie/iroksm.jpg

 

edit: what too look for; body lifts are a cheap way to mall crawler status. The rear driveshaft will be an issue I guarantee it's still a slip yoke. The rear diff is a D35. (I'm guessing your a car guy, 33's on a D35 is like slicks on a 10bolt with 400hp :boom: ). the shocks are cheap, the springs are skyjackers. The spring rate isn't good. You'd be WAY better off finding a stock ride, in one afternoon you could have a better driver and trailrig with minimal investment.

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holy ugly fawkin body lift batman! looks like that thing drove through quadratec with the crap magnet on.

 

not trying to ruin your day, but the springs are saggy as hell, the rear bumperettes say 1980, and the body lift is queer.

 

edit: what too look for; body lifts are a cheap way to mall crawler status. The rear driveshaft will be an issue I guarantee it's still a slip yoke. The rear diff is a D35. (I'm guessing your a car guy, 33's on a D35 is like slicks on a 10bolt with 400hp :boom: ). the shocks are cheap, the springs are skyjackers. The spring rate isn't good. You'd be WAY better off finding a stock ride, in one afternoon you could have a better driver and trailrig with minimal investment.

I like how it looks. ;)

 

Otherwise, thanks for the info. I couldn't look at it today because their power was out and the keys were in an electronic drop-box. I don't plan on buying it for that price so if they don't drop much, I'll be looking elsewhere.

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I like how it looks. ;)

 

Otherwise, thanks for the info. I couldn't look at it today because their power was out and the keys were in an electronic drop-box. I don't plan on buying it for that price so if they don't drop much, I'll be looking elsewhere.

 

forget the looks then, and figure $300 for some decent springs, and $250 for some decent shocks if you plan on driving it much, or will let a wife/SO drive it.

 

check the tracbars as well, with a lift they should be addressed, feel for signs of bumpsteer as well. use them as bargaining points. quick easy fixes.

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forget the looks then, and figure $300 for some decent springs, and $250 for some decent shocks if you plan on driving it much, or will let a wife/SO drive it.

 

check the tracbars as well, with a lift they should be addressed, feel for signs of bumpsteer as well. use them as bargaining points. quick easy fixes.

What do you think that Jeep should go for after negotiating?

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if you're not looking for a lifted jeep--my parents have a fully loaded '99 wrangler with bad wheel bearings that they're probably looking to get rid of. the car is completely unabused, with probably 60k-ish miles on it, and has been driven to work by my mom for the last several years. my brother drove it for 2 years in high school, and never took it off roading even once. its a manual, and has the bigger wheels, steeper rear gears, and the 6 cylinder.
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if you're not looking for a lifted jeep--my parents have a fully loaded '99 wrangler with bad wheel bearings that they're probably looking to get rid of. the car is completely unabused, with probably 60k-ish miles on it, and has been driven to work by my mom for the last several years. my brother drove it for 2 years in high school, and never took it off roading even once. its a manual, and has the bigger wheels, steeper rear gears, and the 6 cylinder.

 

Uh...price?

 

Feel free to PM me. :)

-Marc

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I have the Jeep to keep overnight. So far, it drives well and stays on track. I can't tell for sure, but 2nd gear feels like it may be grinding. It also pulsates when braking sort of like when rotors are warped. Could that be something else? I'm still just neutral about it.

 

 

...oh, and it doesn't fit in my garage. :(

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