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MAin reason for fuel pump failure? 3 in one year


Browning

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and now it looks as if it's out again. Truck has been running great. Ran great earlier today too. Just went to fire it up and just cranks. Turn the key on and can't hear the pump kick on. I have put 3 in this truck in the year I have owned it. Last one was done recently if you remember my thread here

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71784

 

Starts fine when I just sprayed choke cleaner in the TB

 

91 s10 2.8

 

I doubt it's cheap pumps causing them to keep going. Never had a vehicle that ate through pumps like this.

 

 

edit-Just had some one listen that has better ears than I do listen and they said they can hear it kick on. Injectors are dry as fuck though. Went to the autoparts store(across the street from me) and he said it's probably a frozen line. Truck has been driven every day, multiple times per day and was running fine a couple hours ago so don't see how the line can be frozen.

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gm trucks eat the carter fuel pump up..i always had better luck using delphi pumps in GMs

 

dunno it's just a $50 pump from advance. I'm thinking that was my problem.

 

atleast the pump should be free..

 

running them low also burns them up quick..i always tell people treat 1/4 tank like thats empty

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Ever since the last pump went in I've been keeping it at least half full. Not sure how I can test it since it isn't running and will only run for a few seconds when something is sprayed into the TB. If I can hear the pump does that automatically mean it's fine or can it still make the sound and be shot? I wonder if I have a short or something somewhere. Fucking sucks.
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If your electrical lines to the pump are corroded you will get a reduced voltage at the pump. Also, if the signal goes through a relay the relay contacts could be pitted. If there is a way to check the voltage at the pump, that is your best way to find it.

 

Are you the Jack formerly known as Browning?

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there is a connector normally hanging out of the harness. that will power the relay up, and you can get a amp reading from with a dvom hooked up correctly in it. gm amp testing directly relates to pressure. 2-4 amp is what that one should run(since its tpi)

 

 

i have seen the harness chafe and rub , but most times, its a shitty ground on top of the frame rail...if it even looks rough, i replace it, and clean the frame off.

 

you can power the pump up with the connector jumper wired to the hot side of the battery. take your dvow and start doing voltage drops on the ground and power supply to it. any connection should take away about .02 volts from it, any more then that is bad and should be cleaned and or replaced

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don't see how it's overheating in this cold weather lol If it was low voltage wouldn't it still be pushing a little bit of fuel? There isn't any fuel coming from the injectors at all.

 

if your fuel pump is sitting out in the snow, then yeah it can fail easily that way.

 

I guess your engine can't overheat in this weather too. :rolleyes:

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If your electrical lines to the pump are corroded you will get a reduced voltage at the pump. Also, if the signal goes through a relay the relay contacts could be pitted. If there is a way to check the voltage at the pump, that is your best way to find it.

 

Are you the Jack formerly known as Browning?

yea that's me. :) didn't we troll a certain site together years ago? lol

 

there is a connector normally hanging out of the harness. that will power the relay up, and you can get a amp reading from with a dvom hooked up correctly in it. gm amp testing directly relates to pressure. 2-4 amp is what that one should run(since its tpi)

 

 

i have seen the harness chafe and rub , but most times, its a shitty ground on top of the frame rail...if it even looks rough, i replace it, and clean the frame off.

 

you can power the pump up with the connector jumper wired to the hot side of the battery. take your dvow and start doing voltage drops on the ground and power supply to it. any connection should take away about .02 volts from it, any more then that is bad and should be cleaned and or replaced

Every time I replaced the pump I would remove the ground, clean both the terminal and frame up real shiny and what used to be just a bolt through the frame is now a bolt with a nut on the other end for a better connection. I don' have much experience when it comes to using a volt meter to test connections, is there a site where I could maybe read up a little bit about ita little bit by chance? By the way Rob you always come into my tech threads with great info. I really appreciate it. I'm going to put the heet bottle in it in the morning and try it a little while after. If that doesn't do anything I'll be attempting the volt meter tests.

 

if your fuel pump is sitting out in the snow, then yeah it can fail easily that way.

 

I guess your engine can't overheat in this weather too. :rolleyes:

I reread my reply to you and I guess I could have worded it a little better. I didn't mean to make it sound like i didn't believe you.
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Every time you put gas in your car, you expose the tank to moisture. The moisture forms a small puddle on the bottom of the tank (oil floats on water). If your pickup gets some of the moisture, your fuel line can freeze. Water expands as it freezes so you don't need much to plug the line.
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Last time I got gas was a week or so ago and it is half full now. Assuming it is a frozen line, wouldn't it sputter a bit as it's sucking in ice chunks/slush? Like I said it has been running great and was running a couple hours prior to this problem.
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Check the fuel lines running to the engine to see if they are kinked. Specifically the rubber flexible line that runs up the transmission tunnel. I killed the pump in my 94 Jimmy by accidentally twisting that rubber line when I changed the fuel filter. That was an EFI though so I'm not sure if it really applies, but is something to check.
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  • 2 weeks later...
I personally am not a fan of cheapie Autozone fuel pumps. Had a CPI 4.3L Blazer that I had to go through 3 Autozone units before I got a good one (each unit didn't last long). Final good one lasted quite a while until someone hit the truck and totalled it, so it wasn't a voltage/wiring issue.
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