Brake squeak from hell

[Ef8sirJunkie]

Ok ride is a 97 chevy blazer 4wd 4.3L. i had a brake squeak in the front and replaced front pads 2 months ago. now the brake squeak has been back about 2 weeks after i did the pads. i bought the high dollar ceramic pads from advanced. used copper anti seize on the bolts, ears, and back plates of the pads and calipers. Just really annoyed with the sound and im stumped anyone have any more ideas i might be over looking?

[Not Brian]

Same happened with my car, I guess the little metal clippy thingies that hold the pads in place are touching the rotor.. Any weird grooves on your rotors?

[Ef8sirJunkie]

not that i remember i can always take them apart again and check. doing regular maintenance on it coming up this Saturday so ideas welcome.

[TA In Progress]

I had the same issue with an 03 S10 4x4. I replaced the front pads (ceramic) and rotors twice, but still had the squeal. I ended up putting brake quiet on the backs of the pads even though the box said not to and never had any issues from then on.

[Crossle]

ALWAYS replace/resurface rotors when you change pads. This is the reason why and people get pissed until they don't complain about noise. When you put new pads on new rotors they essentially mate with each other, then if you "pad slap" and put different pads on than the last set you are changing the materials....period. Each company's pad material is a little different, thus causing noise.

 

My theory at least.

 

OR, if you did take care of the rotors (which would be important information in diagnosing the issue) it could be one of the clips on the caliper brackets where the pads ride, OR a backing plate.

[AJ]

ALWAYS replace/resurface rotors when you change pads. This is the reason why and people get pissed until they don't complain about noise. When you put new pads on new rotors they essentially mate with each other, then if you "pad slap" and put different pads on than the last set you are changing the materials....period. Each company's pad material is a little different, thus causing noise.

 

My theory at least.

 

OR, if you did take care of the rotors (which would be important information in diagnosing the issue) it could be one of the clips on the caliper brackets where the pads ride, OR a backing plate.

 

 

not quite young grass hopper. machining the rotors is just a way to make more money if they are not warped. a smooth warn in rotor will stop better than a fresh cut rotor. also the pads need burnished in which is a step that no one does, and they always get a squeak.

[Crossle]

Noted

[twistedfocus1647545489]

also the pads need burnished in which is a step that no one does, and they always get a squeak.

 

This.

If you don't break them in properly they'll just glaze over and become noisy/shitty again.

 

Also, I'm not familiar with the calipers on that truck, but if it has slider pins you should lube them also. I see you lubed the bolts, but if they aren't the type that also function as the slider that won't do the trick. Sliders typically have little rubber boots on them to hold in the grease, but that can ooze out over time and can cause the caliper not to slide as it should. You'll want to use a good hi-temp grease for them, not anti-seize.

 

Edit: This assumes that your squealing problem is that it squeals all the time when you're driving, like it's lightly dragging a pad. If its just squealing when you apply the brakes, it likely has nothing to do with the sliders.

[Ef8sirJunkie]

thank you everyone. dont be leave rotor is warped i also dont work in a shop anymore that has access to a lath or else i would have cut them at work. yes i lubed all the sliders and pad backs as i said earlier with copper brake lube (use this on BMW's every day as i work for a dealer, used similar stuff when i worked at a honda dealer). have not yet taken the pads off to see if they are glazed will be doing this saturday as stated. front calipers hold the pads by 2 long alan head caliper bolts. someone working at a chevy dealer can confirm this.

 

i usually buy oem parts but i tried 2 sets of pads threw aftermarket companies now. 2 different brands of pads so i could rule pads out. also forgot to mention i cleaned out the metal tabs with a wire brush as i always do.

[Nitrousbird]

not quite young grass hopper. machining the rotors is just a way to make more money if they are not warped. a smooth warn in rotor will stop better than a fresh cut rotor. also the pads need burnished in which is a step that no one does, and they always get a squeak.

Or it can be the pad itself.

 

I put Hawk Super Duty pads on the front of my Avalanche to help with the lackluster factory braking, along with the best rotors Napa sells (in the hope of not warping another set of rotors). Cleaned/greased caliper sliders, did not use disc quiet gunk on the back of the pads, and broke them in EXACTLY how Hawk recommends. I get a squeak on light brake application that goes away on medium or hard application. Never did on any of the two previous sets of rotors/pads I had put on her (this set at least brakes better and hasn't warped).

[AJ]

Or it can be the pad itself.

 

I put Hawk Super Duty pads on the front of my Avalanche to help with the lackluster factory braking, along with the best rotors Napa sells (in the hope of not warping another set of rotors). Cleaned/greased caliper sliders, did not use disc quiet gunk on the back of the pads, and broke them in EXACTLY how Hawk recommends. I get a squeak on light brake application that goes away on medium or hard application. Never did on any of the two previous sets of rotors/pads I had put on her (this set at least brakes better and hasn't warped).

 

he put ceramic pads on.