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Energy star houses?


smokin5s

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So I have a brand new 5 star energy efficient house with a 99% efficient electric heater. But this thing runs ALL the time.. Any ideas on how to get my house to retain heat better or y it's losing it? Also is it normal for the heater to run that much and blow cold air? The hvac guys said it is but I have a hard time believing it.

 

Help.. My electric bill is 340 this month and I can't keep up with these crazy bills

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do you have a gas bill too? if not, and you have a decent sized house, i would say thats not too horrible...my house is a 3 level split, 1388 sq/ft, about 460 sq/ft on each floor, and our gas in winter is maybe 130-140 and electric is about 80-100.

 

also, go to wally world and pick up some of those window sealing kits, and make sure you go to the office supplies section and get a few rolls of scotch double sided tape, because the stuff that comes with it is utter junk. go around the perimiter of the window frame, cut film to size, stick on, hit it with a blow dryer until all wrinkles are gone...helps A TON, and you could do a house with maybe 3 boxes at like $10/each

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no, just electric... I have a ranch which is 24xx on the ground floor and 24xx in the basement.

 

I thought about doing that to the windows, but, I put my hand on the windows and there is ZERO draft coming from the windows and the glass isn't cold... BUT the sliding glass door has all sorts of draftiness about it so I thought about doing it just to the sliding glass door... but with that being said, we have blindes on all of our windows and when we leave the blindes not cracked, it will get mold on them and the builder said that was because there is condensation build up, but no air flow to keep it from molding, so I'm not sure that putting that plastic on the windows is really a good idea.

 

I do have a wood burning fire place and my neighbor said because I don't have those glass doors on it, that could cause an issue so I thought about going out and picking up a set of glass doors for the fire place in hopes that it will help.

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That's fucked up. My house is roughly 1500 sq ft and my gas bill was $120 last month. Last year I had the house insulated (packed in between the studs) and the furnace runs, but not every 10 minutes for 20 minutes each cycle. Now it's more like every 20-30 minutes for 10 minutes at a time.
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you would think since I even have a certificate showing it's an energy efficient house and what the readings are that it would retain the heat better... I guess the house being 4,800 sq feet that I shouldn't complain but good lord, that's a high bill... and if they try to tell me that something isn't wrong, we keep out heat set at 67 and I just checked the thermostat, it's reading 65 in the house and I keep another temp gauge by it just to monitor it and it's reading 64... I'm calling and bitching in the AM!

 

 

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj196/smokin5s/2011-02-03_03-41-26_831.jpg?t=1296724461

 

so I guess another question is, what could be wrong with the furnace since the builder keeps on saying there's nothing wrong with it... am I able to hire a different HVAC person and then bill the builder?

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Is your house insulated? I know it's brand new.. but if they don't insulated it, it's basically the same house I have now (which was built in 1963).

 

I have my thermostat set to 75 right now and in the kitchen (10-12 feet away) it's 71 degrees. I have a small space heater in the basement where the game room is (and where I work) set to 70 and it kicks on here and there in a 6 hour span.

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Energy star means shit, you can buy that rating and most of what is rated is probably 'self tested' by whoever makes it. And you have a five thousand square foot house, did you really think you were going to heat it for $100 a month when it got cold?

 

You can have an 80" TV that sucks down 500watts that's energy star rated and a 40" tv that uses 200watts that's not because the 80" TV is efficient compared to other 80" TV's and the 40" is not. The whole system is beyond flawed.

 

But, your house probably could be more efficient. Do you actually know what they are supposed to do to get that rating? I'm not sure, but you would want to look into it if you are actually concerned about this. Did they actually do it? If you want your house to actually be efficient it's time to get an energy audit done and work on the problem areas. Since you know the sliding glass door and maybe the chimney is an issue those would be a good place to start. It sucks because it's a new house, but putting plastic over the sliding glass door is a band-aid.

 

Here is Energy Star's page on rated houses, I haven't read over it yet, but it would be a good place to start. Once you know what went into your house that's actually efficient, you can figure out where the issues may be and start to work! http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=new_homes.hm_index

 

The only rating that is any good in the building industry (that I know of) is LEED and that's mostly for big buildings.

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I have a similar (if not exact) all-electric system in my house. It's normal for it to run longer and at a lower temperature than gas. My house is just under 1300 sq. ft. and my electric bill was almost $300 for last month.

 

I notice that in the screenshot your Aux heat is on. If you have an outside temp sensor built-in I would bet that your installer has it set to use the Aux at any temperature under 30 degrees instead of the heat pump. The Aux or "strip heat" is like a big ass hair dryer and is not very efficient. I had set mine back to 15 or 20 and it still did a fine job last year (though it does run a bit longer). I had some warranty work done on the HVAC system this fall and I didn't notice that the tech set the Aux only threshold back to 30 until I got this last bill and freaked out (it was under 30 degrees for almost the entire month). I'm no HVAC tech but it doesn't seem to hurt anything and the thermostat will call for Aux if it has trouble keeping the desired temperature. Either way, when it's cold as shit like it has been lately it will be running very often.

 

Edit: Mine doesn't have trouble keeping the temperature right at 68 though, so you may have something wrong.

Edited by twistedfocus
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heat Pumps pump AMBIENT air, not heated air.

 

They are miserable peices of shit.

 

... cannot express how much i hate living in this house in the winter...

 

heat pumps are a southern heat source that has mde its way north, and were not initially made to run below 32° that is why they not an efficient heat source in the north part of the country.

 

14xx sq ft-- $200 last month.

This month i am sure will be higher.

 

We use a Kerosene heater to supplement the heat in our house. We have newer (10yo) windows, but some drafty doors, that i keep air blockers in front of.

 

We also use this to shut off all power going to non used electronics when we go to bed.

We have everything but the DVR plugged into this thing, and the remote is mounted next to the light switch, so whenw e go to bed, we turn it all off as well.

 

 

http://www.belkin.com/conserve/images/banners/switchav/switchav-banner.jpg

 

Electronics use up a fair amount of electricity while still plugged in, even when they are off.

Unplugging appliances when not in use is another good way to save on yoru bill.

(toasters, mixers, lamps in rooms you dont use often, guest room clocks, tvs)

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i just got my heat bill $250 (gas) 85 (electric). my house is 2200 sq ft. I'd say your doing good.

 

 

If you really want to cut those costs get a wood stove or a outside wood furnace. This is what i'll be doing with my next house with an electric backup.

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Energy star means shit, you can buy that rating and most of what is rated is probably 'self tested' by whoever makes it. And you have a five thousand square foot house, did you really think you were going to heat it for $100 a month when it got cold?

 

You can have an 80" TV that sucks down 500watts that's energy star rated and a 40" tv that uses 200watts that's not because the 80" TV is efficient compared to other 80" TV's and the 40" is not. The whole system is beyond flawed.

 

But, your house probably could be more efficient. Do you actually know what they are supposed to do to get that rating? I'm not sure, but you would want to look into it if you are actually concerned about this. Did they actually do it? If you want your house to actually be efficient it's time to get an energy audit done and work on the problem areas. Since you know the sliding glass door and maybe the chimney is an issue those would be a good place to start. It sucks because it's a new house, but putting plastic over the sliding glass door is a band-aid.

 

Here is Energy Star's page on rated houses, I haven't read over it yet, but it would be a good place to start. Once you know what went into your house that's actually efficient, you can figure out where the issues may be and start to work! http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=new_homes.hm_index

 

The only rating that is any good in the building industry (that I know of) is LEED and that's mostly for big buildings.

keep in mind the house is really 2,400 sq feet with a 2,400 sq fot basement.... we do keep the vents open down there, but we have not finished it off yet.

 

as far as who does the efficiency rating, they have a 3rd party come in and do it... no idea how they do it though.

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I have a similar (if not exact) all-electric system in my house. It's normal for it to run longer and at a lower temperature than gas. My house is just under 1300 sq. ft. and my electric bill was almost $300 for last month.

 

I notice that in the screenshot your Aux heat is on. If you have an outside temp sensor built-in I would bet that your installer has it set to use the Aux at any temperature under 30 degrees instead of the heat pump. The Aux or "strip heat" is like a big ass hair dryer and is not very efficient. I had set mine back to 15 or 20 and it still did a fine job last year (though it does run a bit longer). I had some warranty work done on the HVAC system this fall and I didn't notice that the tech set the Aux only threshold back to 30 until I got this last bill and freaked out (it was under 30 degrees for almost the entire month). I'm no HVAC tech but it doesn't seem to hurt anything and the thermostat will call for Aux if it has trouble keeping the desired temperature. Either way, when it's cold as shit like it has been lately it will be running very often.

 

Edit: Mine doesn't have trouble keeping the temperature right at 68 though, so you may have something wrong.

how do you change that setting?

 

we do have a wood burning fireplace, but I have not purchased any actual wood for it, I keep on using those 4 hour logs which honestly don't put out any heat.

 

my old house in Blacklick was 2,400 sq feet as well (including the finished basement) and my gas and electric bill combined wasn't even close to this... I remember my electric being like 30 a month in the winter with gas being maybe 160'ish... Maybe I'm expecting too much... but I don't think I should be paying this much or have the heater running so often (it seriously didn't turn off from 3am to 8am this morning and never actually hit 67)

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my 1900 sqft house built in 76 with original heat pump punishes me with a $350-$400 bill a month with the thermostat set at 65

 

just put a programable thermostat on so during the day it settles around 62 when I'm gone then 62 again while I sleep. Its also setup to avoid using aux heat as much...

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1 year old house. 1400 sq ft. max electric bill was been 125. Max gas was 75.

 

Temp set at 75 in winter and about 65-68 in summer.

 

After reading this thread, I am very happy with our costs lol.

 

I am feeling the same way, we just bought our house a year and a half ago and in the APT we had a heat pump. I would have never bought a house with one after that 5 year experience. It would barely make 65 deg if it was 15 deg or under. Gas FTW. We have a 2400 sq ft house built in the 60's. Electric is about $100 (with plenty of toys plugged in) and gas was $140 last month (our furnace is 15 years old). BUT we keep it at 68-72 all winter long. Just remember nothing can produce better ambient heat than fire lol.

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my 1900 sqft house built in 76 with original heat pump punishes me with a $350-$400 bill a month with the thermostat set at 65

 

just put a programable thermostat on so during the day it settles around 62 when I'm gone then 62 again while I sleep. Its also setup to avoid using aux heat as much...

 

Why not just spend the 3-5 grand and get a new furnafce?? it will pay for it self in NO time!

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I do have a wood burning fire place and my neighbor said because I don't have those glass doors on it, that could cause an issue so I thought about going out and picking up a set of glass doors for the fire place in hopes that it will help.

 

Typically the flue will take care of any air movement in or out in a WBF. But there will be a tiny loss.

 

If you had a GBF then by law you wont have a flue and doors are highly recommended to act as the flue for air control.

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The "Aux Heat On" that is showing on the display may mean you are on "Emergency" heat and not running the heat pump.

 

Hate to tell you, but electric heat is fucking expensive. Our house is about 3300 sq/ft + 2400 sq/ft of basement (though 600 of those are crawl space), with half of the 1st floor having 18' ceilings. Our last bill was over $500, and I am dreading the next one.

 

You also have to remember with an all electric house that your hot water heater runs on electric too, which also isn't cheap. My bill is still $125-150 even in the mild months where the heat and A/C are barely being used.

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You also have to remember with an all electric house that your hot water heater runs on electric too, which also isn't cheap. My bill is still $125-150 even in the mild months where the heat and A/C are barely being used.

 

Holly shit, what all do you run in your house? Our budget is $124/month is a 1300sq/ft townhouse, all electric w/heat pump. And the windows are SHITTY.

Edited by Trouble Maker
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Holly shit, what all do you run in your house? Our budget is $124/month is a 1300sq/ft townhouse.

PC runs 24/7, TV is on a lot, wife that doesn't like to turn lights off - other than that, nothing too outrageous. All the appliances are newer, including high efficency washer/dryer.

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