Jump to content

Make My Car Go Mid 10's


wagner
 Share

Recommended Posts

Get the drivetrain up to par, a quality transmission, I like a nice built 4l60e there's no reason it can't be somewhat streetable. Next up is a rearend and driveshaft, 12 bolt or 9", I'd suggest the 9" with a spool. Pick up a quality driveshaft, precision shaft is great with the 1350 u-joints. Quality set of shocks and springs, QA1s or Afcos, and a Madman torque arm. Get a nice set of drag wheels and tires with a good 10.5" radial.

 

Now for the fun part, there's 2 ways I'd go to make power both will cost about the same give or take. Start with building a fuel system, make it a return system, do a pair of 255 Walbros, and then decide on either nitrous or turbo. If nitrous buy a high end set of heads and an aggressive camshaft suitable for spray, supporting mods for head and cam swap, and then buy a complete nitrous set-up and since bracket racing is the goal a nitrogen assist system to regulate the nitrous system for super consistancy. If turbo, buy the biggest set of injectors, a nice hot side set up, quality 76mm turbo, and all other turbo parts. Get a ported set of 6.0L heads and a good turbo grind cam, and LS6 intake.

 

This could obviously be done a few different ways, but I'd like to drive it on the street and going to a turbo 350 or 400 you'd loose the lock-up converter and overdrive. A spool isn't bad if you don't try to go parrallel parking.

 

Over all just throw $15k+ at it, and it'll run low 10s all day every day.

 

yep, He covered it.

 

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f275/skylineb2/nx.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

After doing some more research on LS1tech I have started the process of collecting parts.

 

This combo will either go in my car, or something else. I think based on my research I am going to go the boosted way, it will be a little easier to reach my goal this way.

 

I might also have to do this in stages to due funding. My plans are not to fund this all on credit cards, and to do it right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After doing some more research on LS1tech I have started the process of collecting parts.

 

This combo will either go in my car, or something else. I think based on my research I am going to go the boosted way, it will be a little easier to reach my goal this way.

 

I might also have to do this in stages to due funding. My plans are not to fund this all on credit cards, and to do it right.

 

Right there with you. I am putting a turbo kit on my car, but running low boost for a while until the rest of the car can support the mods. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Right there with you. I am putting a turbo kit on my car, but running low boost for a while until the rest of the car can support the mods. :)

 

Well I might be making a few chagnes to my plans with the car. It might might become a little less street friendly to get what I need.

 

Your choices for a build are fast, reliable, or cheap. Unless you have a ton of funds you only get to pick 2 of the three.

 

I might end up going to a non-overdrive transmission for now to save.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I might be making a few chagnes to my plans with the car. It might might become a little less street friendly to get what I need.

 

Your choices for a build are fast, reliable, or cheap. Unless you have a ton of funds you only get to pick 2 of the three.

 

I might end up going to a non-overdrive transmission for now to save.

 

I couldn't agree more when it comes to fast and reliable costs a pretty penny, but take you're time and spend the money. I'm so glad I can still go cruise my car. Besides you don't have a truck and trailer, and if you only get to drive it at the track it won't be any good to you anywhere else. If it's what you want to do more power to you, and you know I'll even help you out if you want.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I couldn't agree more when it comes to fast and reliable costs a pretty penny, but take you're time and spend the money. I'm so glad I can still go cruise my car. Besides you don't have a truck and trailer, and if you only get to drive it at the track it won't be any good to you anywhere else. If it's what you want to do more power to you, and you know I'll even help you out if you want.

 

I 100% agree. Definitely take your time. That 3 months and extra $500 can save you from the car being down for 3 months with a $3000 repair bill. People to this day try to talk mess about my $15k in supporting mods and my baby cam.. But my car runs 10s everytime I spray it no matter the track prep, temperature, etc. no questions asked. Give yourself the option to make it faster knowing the car was built for it. Do it right the first time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If u don't want air chad wants a car to mock up the truck manifold kit. Uses stock k member and solid motor mounts. I can't use mine cause I'm gona install the k member and start on the ac kit. 10.50s would be very easy with a 76mm kit and u don't need as much mods as u think
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If u don't want air chad wants a car to mock up the truck manifold kit. Uses stock k member and solid motor mounts. I can't use mine cause I'm gona install the k member and start on the ac kit. 10.50s would be very easy with a 76mm kit and u don't need as much mods as u think

 

I asked if he was looking and he said he was not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Keep in mind also that if you put an older transmission in your car it won't shift right without going manual valve body or a lot of work, and I'm not how you'd make an old 350 or 400 shift with a boosted engine without a manual valve body. I really don't see how putting one of these together would save you much of anything.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Keep in mind also that if you put an older transmission in your car it won't shift right without going manual valve body or a lot of work, and I'm not how you'd make an old 350 or 400 shift with a boosted engine without a manual valve body. I really don't see how putting one of these together would save you much of anything.

 

If I go this route, I will need to do more research. It will be a manual valve body transmission and will also have a transbrake in it.

 

My reasoning for going this route would be planning ahead. I would rather do the conversion now that way when I really throw some power at the car it will be ready.

 

The K-Y turbo car went 10.29 with one fo their kits, a cam, and some weight reduction. I would like to find out more about the combo they are running because that bitch was almost dragin pumper :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I go this route, I will need to do more research. It will be a manual valve body transmission and will also have a transbrake in it.

 

My reasoning for going this route would be planning ahead. I would rather do the conversion now that way when I really throw some power at the car it will be ready.

 

The K-Y turbo car went 10.29 with one fo their kits, a cam, and some weight reduction. I would like to find out more about the combo they are running because that bitch was almost dragin pumper :)

 

Just don't forget that with a different trans, comes crossmember, converter, driveshaft, torque arm mount, tuning (minor), and gear change. If planned out with a rear end swap it wouldn't be bad, but this sure isn't something I'd peice together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just don't forget that with a different trans, comes crossmember, converter, driveshaft, torque arm mount, tuning (minor), and gear change. If planned out with a rear end swap it wouldn't be bad, but this sure isn't something I'd peice together.

 

After I posted that and I thought about the cost you are right, it might start to add up and be a push for cost.

 

The biggest cost will be for teh converter, because I already have access to a TH350 or TH400 for free. I might see if there is a thread on ls1tech that gives the cost breakdown for a swap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After I posted that and I thought about the cost you are right, it might start to add up and be a push for cost.

 

The biggest cost will be for teh converter, because I already have access to a TH350 or TH400 for free. I might see if there is a thread on ls1tech that gives the cost breakdown for a swap.

 

LS1tech has a list of t-400 swap stuff in their automatic transmission section, but taking a free t-400 and having it built to be reliable isn't going to save you much IMHO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i can build your th400 with a brake just like steves. and he went 10.29 with bone stock rear arms, shocks, short block, just 317 heads unported a cam and a ky turbo truck manifold crossover and 3.5' dp at almost 15psi. if your wanting easy 10.50s tune id just copy what steve did ad some lower arms, shocks, and a 9" for reliability and u could go 10.50s for the rest of its life if you wanted. the 4l80s and 4l60s 2004rs are great overdrives when you put 3000 dollars into them. but if your goals are for a fast and consistant drag car than those options are not for you. did you follow marks vette had a few diff od trannys and u know what he ended up with and has had no issues, a th400. if you can get the tranny for free thats a hell of a start, for a drag app u need a drum setup for the hp 67 to 69 model. this is by far the week link the stock sprag. for a brake you want a hipsters, or hughes, the only down fall to the tci and some others is you dont have rev in the rev location you have to switch to neutral and hold the brake button for reverse. i know for shure the hipsters and hughes have great and normal reverse. and if you have a good aftermarket 3 speed shifter like a pro stick or quarter stick you dont have to have a rev pattern shifter its just pref but you can still shift. mine is a forward pattern shifter and ive used it for years. you will need the adaptor for the crank a flat flexplate and if you want a ultra bell. this requires you to install a taperd bolt into the rear cover as the stock ones hit the bellhousing.

i would not recomend the th350 only because they are a little more expensive to build than a th400 and are easier to break.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share


×
×
  • Create New...